FEMALE SHEPHERDS FIGHTING...HELP!! - Page 2

Once again. They should NEVER be together. inside, outside, supervised, unsupervised.  NOT together.   The worst bitch fight I ever delt with was INSIDE the house.  Either keep the totally, completely seperate or rehome one.  That's what has been suggested over and over again.

We have 4 sheps total but 2 are very close in age and were the best of friends until Voxi matured to about 18 months and Uruk 16 month she turned into ULTRA BIOTCH and will fight to the finish with him if we let it escalate.  So we have to and had to separate them they can never be together in the house because she wont give he will listen to us and platz as will she but then take pot shots when she can.

SHE will not do this with the pack Alpha male just her rival -  I think they are both rallying for 2nd spot in pack but we cant let it happen.

If we take them swimming or hiking etc...it is a constant leave him alone she will even try to get him when swimming.

This is our NON sporting dog too she is a couch potato otherwise and a pet but will seems to find sport in fighting :)

Not trying to make light of the situation never had females before and never will again because of this issue.

Good luck.....and while it sounds like a pain in a$$ it is not that hard to keep dogs separated atleast for us. As some go to work some go to training and some stay home.  And our home is tiny and our land non exsitant!

I agree with Jacob. You should have gone into a RAGE the first time it happened. Now, the aggressive bitch knows she can get away with it and it has gone to her head. By rage, I do not mean beat her senseless, but YELL, scream, shake your fist, and yes smack her if need be. Get in front of her and and push her away from the other female. Get her attention on you. Make it known that it is WORSE for her to fight than to just put up with the other bitch. Of course, you know your dog and we do not. If you think she might bite you instead, use caution and perhaps hire an experienced trainer to help. If you know she will not bite you, then use this method.

In my house, I have 3 high drive bitches. 2 are aggressive. NONE of them fight. As each was introduced, they tried to but they learned quickly that I would NOT allow it. Meaning, I got all over the dog that started picking fights. They soon learn not to even try because me (the alpha) will not allow it.

If these dogs didn't see me as alpha, they would walk all over me. I have made sure from day one that this is never in question. I AM IN CHARGE and they do what I say when I say. This comes in handy when bitches try to fight ... when they see that I do not allow this, they back down. This doesn't mean they will like each other, it just means they know better than to fight.

Not sure about shock collars. It depends on the dog, but in some cases it can work and in others it will make it worse. I have heard of dogs becoming MORE aggressive when they are already fighting and get shocked. Just wanted to warn you on that. Might be worth a try and you will know the first time you try it if it will work or not. If she becomes more aggressive when shocked, don't use it again. However, I do not recommend this course of action, JMHO.

At this point, I would not allow them together unless supervised. When the aggressive bitch tries to fight, YOU put HER in her place. Do it every time until she gets the point.

Sorry I can't help more than that, but I hope maybe it will help some.

'Thanks Ramage...EVERYTIME they have fought I have gotten all over the aggressor,   believe me.  now when i even see the look in her eyes and she seems to want to start circling, i make a hug think about it.  they are never outside together and only inside very limited time.  i have noticed this....EVERYTIME  I take the other dog by the collar, maybe to lead her to another spot, or something...the aggressive one is where we are in seconds just dying to take the other dog down   Any thoughts on that?  Thanks everyone!

She is bidding her time, and will find a time when you are not  looking and then give the fight  all she has. Once this fight is started, you could be in a small area with not alot of room to move. I understand the want, the emotional wanting them to  just  get along. Get over it. Life happens and you will be  pulled away for just a second, It is not  fun to break them up, and the chances of you not getting a bite yourself is not on your side. Keep them seperate, period.   I have a girlfriend who raises rotts, she lives in a house divided, she does this because she is experianced, and refuses to give up the trouble maker. Even with all the experiance, her Husband has landed in the hosp, TWICE. They understand the risk, the bills, and do not kid themselves. for me, I do  not  want the risk, I do not want one or more of my dogs put down because animal control will  get involved when you go to hosp, it you tell  them you do not  know  the dogs,  they want to give you  rabbies shots, so that option is lost to you. Your homeowners insurance will cancel you if found out.  you really need to  think about all of the consequences. Also it breaks your heart to see them hurt, when you know if  you would have kept them  seperate, would not have happened. If  not going to rehome, just  keep seperate, give time to each.

Carry a staff.. and use it . If the dog moves to rush into the flock, the handler should throw down his shepherd's staff in front of the oncoming dog with a sharp "PFUI!". This must be done forcefully enough to "shock" the dog out of the chase drive and to teach it that the sheep within the borders are to be left alone. A good potential HGH dog should handle this correction by moving back onto the boundary and patrolling the line as before. The potential HGH dog should not come out of the correction showing circling behavior like one would expect of the potential fetching/gathering dog. If the dog does show consistent circling behavior instead of straight line border work on the flock, you can still train the dog to do boundary work but you will be working against the dog's natural instinctive style.

Well, bondos mom just gave her other screen name away......the saga continues, enough said.

THESE DOGS ARE FIGHTING FOR YOUR ATTENTION WHILE YOU ARE NOT IN LEADERSHIP POSITION. THEY ALSO MAY FIGHT IF THEY ARE COMING INTO HEAT (sometimes they go through this cycle even if spayed.)

What to do.
1.Separate the females.(!!!!!!!!)
2.Train the dogs proper type of obedience which enables you to establish leadership position. This should enable you to keep the dogs together, but O-N-L-Y WHEN / IF YOU ARE AROUND. You may or may not be able to accomplish this. That depends on your personality and type of training.
3.If you are not around; then these two particular females MUST in any case BE SEPARATED FOR REST OF THEIR LIFE!. Or they may and probably will KILL EACH OTHER.
4.I personally do not ever leave any two females together while I am not supervising them. Sometimes such dogs are fine for years and then they fight really bad,... even to death. Other dogs then also may join in and kill the weakest female.            
5.Males which are otherwise OK with each other, will  suddendly fight if  there is a female in heat even mile(s) away.
Hans(Prager)
http://www.alpinek9.com