Would you consider this "normal" GSD behavior? - Page 3

DH, My comment about "helping the dog may be beyound your limits etc... Was directed to the individual Wardawg. I actually thanked you for your input and I do not for one minute think I am only one who can help this dog.That is why I posted the message. I also take full responsibility for what has happen with the training situations. And I will continue to keep working toward a solution. The solution will not be found in pinch collars choking or hitting the dog. I'll keep you guys posted.

"The solution will not be found in pinch collars choking or hitting the dog." So do you mean to say that you are not willing to use a pinch collar on a dog such as yours? I certainly do no believe that choking and hitting the dog will have a good result, but most of the best trainers of GSDs in Schutzhund will recommend using a pinch collar. The pinch collar provides a level of control without ever the need for (and there is never a need for) choking and hitting.

No tool, if used correctly, will be an instrument of "torture". A pinch collar is merely a tool. You can use a pinch the right way, or the wrong way. Incidentally, a regular pinch collar is not that harsh, try it on your arm, its quite tolerable. And you don't even have a thick layer of fur on your arm. A regular fur saver choke collar or any other choke collar can do far more damage to your dogs neck than a pinch. Any collar can as a matter of fact. No one here ever suggested choking or hitting the dog. But things are obviously out of control. So the answer lies in regaining that control. You will not do that with the "pretty please" approach. It seems to me that you are also not really listening, or reading and understanding. From your responses I can only assume that your trainers were at their wits end with you. You want the magic wand to come out and make all problems disappear. Not going to happen. "this dog is very smart and sensitive, is that a bad thing?" it is if you do not know how to deal with it. Smart dogs learn fast. That means the bad things just as fast as the good things. He has already learned a lot... not all of it good. It seems you are pussyfooting around your dog and let him run the show because you do not want to "hurt" him. If dogs do not act appropriately among one another they do not pussyfoot around, they get busy, show some teeth and sink them in if they have to. Doggies don't worry if they get hurt in the process, its part of their nature to leave a few bushels of hair behind them on occasion, or lick their wounds afterwards. Even a mother dog will show her pups in no uncertain terms what is acceptable and what is not. You might actually be surprised how rough some mothers can be with unruly pups. So surely a bit of consequence and a few ruffled feathers are not going to damage your dogs phsyche for eternity. He is not a strong dog, and he does not have a strong leader. So he flies off the handle the moment he gets overwhelmed. Dogs function best within clear boundries and even better with a strong leader by their side. It seems, your dog has neither, which is the biggest of his problems. Sorry to be so blunt. You are the source of your dogs problems. Until you accept that and make appropriate changes, your dogs behaviour will not change. You cannot wish it, you need to do something about it. Take some time and check out the book section of the CKC website or have them send you a catalogue. If you do not trust a trainer, then educate yourself. Find a method that works for you. You can use several different methods as long as they are not conflicting. The strongest suggestion I can make right now is to learn about timing, consequence and how to read your dog. If you can read your dog you can see things building and then prevent what the dog is building up to. But none of that matters if you do not want to really work on it in earnest. And yes, keep us posted.

What makes you think I don't work on this issue with my dog? I work with my dog constantly throughout the day,an hour in the morning, an hour at lunch, and 3-4 in the ening(2 which including 10-20kms cross-country run). There is documented evidence that a pinch collar can cause neurolgical damage. that trainer from the National Geographic channel is being sued! My dog walks on a loose leash except when he becomes reactive. And once he has a strong Watch me he'll do tthat on a loose leash instead of reacting He has already shown improvement since we started giving him more space at the training hall,then as he learns that there is nothing to be afraid of I will ( systematic desensitization)slowly bring him closer tother other dogs. As for the traing situation, the last biting episode happened after the trainer brought in another got mine all worked up and then gave me something to read while he checked the dogs attention, wath me ability. HInd sight being what it is I needed to calm him get him relaxed and paying attention then he could have checked him out. I posted a message here hoping to get some sophisticated training advice from individuals who indicated they have trained dogs for years. What I have got was ridiculed, being told I don't have the ability to change this behavior, and being told that the dog would be put down if I lived in there country. Have any of you heard of Turid Rugas? As for the comment of some mother dogs discipling the pups roughly, have you also seen the bitch who only has to lift her lip and the pups tow the line immediately? Which type of leader do you want to be the one that has to throw the dog around on the end of a pinch collar or the one that just lifts a lip>?

I posted a message here hoping to get some sophisticated training advice from individuals who indicated they have trained dogs for years. What I have got was ridiculed, being told I don't have the ability to change this behavior, and being told that the dog would be put down if I lived in there country. RMB, OK. I HAVE EXTENSIVE EXPERIENCE DEALING WITH EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE DOGS AND I CAN SUGGEST THAT NO COOKIE-CUTTER APPROACH HAS WORKED FOR US. WE ARE CURRENTLY SEARCHING OUT 1-2 EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE FEMALES TO BREED TO A MALE WE HAVE IN CANADA AND OUR FRIEND UP THERE IS WORKING REAL WELL WITH LIKELY THE MOST AGGRESSIVE FEMALE WE HAVE EVER SEEN. DOG BEHAVIORISTS AND SCHH AND SPORT PEOPLE WILL GIVE YOU THEIR OPINIONS BASED ON PAST SUCCESS STORIES. I HAVE SEEN AND TRIED METHODS MENTIONED ABOVE WITH SUCCESS AS WELL AS FAILURES. WITH EXTREME SITUATIONS WE FIND A MIX IS MOST OFTEN THE ANSWER. AS AN EXAMPLE, OUR CANADIAN FRIEND IS WORKING TO INSURE PEOPLE'S SAFTEY IN A SCHUTZHUND CLUB BY TRAINING OUR FEMALE TO NOT ATTACK SOMEONE JUST BECAUSE THEY MAKE EYE CONTACT OR ARE WITHIN HER PROXIMITY. WE SUGGESTED FIRST TEACHING HER TO FOCUS ON HIM AT A PLACE ALL ALONE; THEN FOCUS ON HIM WITH DISTRACTION(HIS GIRLFRIEND); THEN FOCUS ON HIM ALONE AT CLUB; THEN FOCUS AT CLUB WITH GIRLFRIEND DISTRACTION. PURE ATTENTION TO THIS STAGE WAS DEMANDED, SHE RECEIVED MINOR ADJUSTMENTS IF NOT WATCHING HIS EYES ATTENTIVELY. NOW A GROUP OF OTHERS WAS SET UP AND HE WAS TO WALK INTO THE GROUP WITH HER BUT PRIOR HE SPENT 5 MINUTES COMPLETELY CALMING HER DOWN, GETTING RID OF ANY "HYPERACTIVITY". ONCE SHE WAS CALM, HE WALKED HER IN AND STAYED RIGHT BESIDE HER CALMING ETC. SHE MADE THE OCCASSIONAL MISTAKE WHICH HE HAD TO CORRECT HER FOR BUT I AM TOLD THE PROGRAM IS WORKING VERY WELL FOR HER. SHE CAN BE LEFT ALONE IN THE GROUP NOW (MUZZLED SO EVERYONE ELSE DOES NOT GET NERVOUS) WHILE HE LEAVES AND SHE STAYS IN THERE WITH NO PROBLEMS. HE THEN WALKS IN, THE GROUP TAKES A FEW STEPS BACK, SHE GETS THE MUZZLE TAKEN OFF AND THE GROUP TAKES A STEP OR TWO IN AND SHE STAYS CALM AND THE GROUP IS ASKED TO LEAVE AND SHE IS THEN TAKEN AWAY AND REWARDED WITH PLAY. OUR PROGRAM FOR HER WAS ESTABLISHED TAKING JUST AS MUCH INTO CONSIDERATION AS TO WHERE OUR CANADIAN FRIEND WAS WILLING TO GO(HE FINDS IT HARD TO BE REAL HARD ON HER) AS TO WHAT THE DOG NEEDED. WHAT THIS DEVELOPED WAS A REAL TRUST BETWEEN THE DOG AND HIM AND IT IS THE BASE UPON WHICH EVERYTHING ELSE WILL FOLLOW. THE FIRST CONSISTENCY IN THIS CASE IS THE TRUST SHE HAS TO KNOW HIS REACTION TO HER ACTIONS AND THAT HE IS CONSISTENTLY COMFORTABLE HELPING HER GET TO WHERE SHE NEEDS TO GET WITH HIS REACTIONS. I HOPE THIS HELPS.

Hello rmb, May I just ask where in your home does your dog lie down? Does he have his favourite places? Vixen

Hello rmb, May I just ask where in your home does your dog lie down? Does he have his favourite places? Vixen

I am sorry for not replying back sooner. Your dogs has already bitten two people with you right there. This is a problem dog, and some people are more apt to handle this type of dog. The fact that twice you allowed this to happen is a very strong indication that you do have those type skills. Now don't take this the wrong way, most people don't have these skills. My suggestion is that instead of putting your dog into a situation where his temperament is stressed to the max, and people can get hurt; avoid these situations competely. You are frustrated because you dog is not social. Well that is only important if your dog is allowed to socialize. If you protect his space from others it is no longer be an issue. I believe it would be easier for you to just control his enviroment, than to get him to adapt to a social enviroment.