Bite box training, can someone explain it? - Page 2

Response from Mike Diehl on theory behind box training:

The main objective of the box training is for grips. For police and top sport especially we need full grips. The box keeps the dog focused towards this mission by removing options. Since the handler is all but taken out of the equation, we won't have to worry about handler error. How many times have you seen on the field when maybe the handler was not running fast enough with the dog carrying the sleeve or he did not gather the dog properly to develop a calm grip or maybe the dog is thrashing or shaking the sleeve. Box training can remove all these options by providing a very focused, option free environment to learn proper full firm calm gripping.   Mike

Hey guys,

Mike really hit on some of the key things behind the bite box. My personal thoughts are that a grip is largely genetic and cannot be trained. Under real pressure or a different helper on a strange field, the cosmetic work done on the grip will unravel and the dog will show their true genetic gripping ability.

With that being said, I think there are dogs that the gripping would be much better had it been raised and promoted better. A lot of gripping issues can arrive because of poor helper work or the presence of conflict between the dog and the handler. How many times have you seen a dog that you can slip a sleeve to and the grip is fine, but as soon as the handler approaches or says out the dog goes into a thrash or starts typewriting the grip? This is where the bitebox training can eliminate some fundamental errors in the foundation training. The handler (often inexperienced or conflicting) can simply be removed from the equation. The dog cannot spin or flip like on a backtie because the walls "stall" them. The floor is slick, so they can't use their body to cheat and win on a less than full grip.

The bitebox isn't really for barking exclusively, but it is a nice by product of the work. Very easily, the dog can be taught to bark stronger, strike faster, strike straighter, hump back with their entire body, hold calmly, and of course, bite full and hard and find success in the grip. I try and teach the bitework on a young dog in the box that they A.) Work hard and show me the behavior I'm looking for, and B.) When they do, they get their reward, the grip, and C.) When they get their grip....ahhhhh just calm down and hold it, enjoy it, you've won. I try to go right from drive work right to slow, calming effects on the dog to make them really feel the success and enjoyment from loading into the sleeve. I keep tension on the item, just enough to maintain the grip I'm looking for, and we let the dog win.

The bitebox is not a cure all, because like I've said, a grip can't be taught. However, a grip is like any other part of your dogs training. The foundation should be layed correctly to give your dog it's best chance of reaching it's true genetic potential.

I've got videos of the bitebox and the table on my site on my training page. Mike and I have used them both with great success. When done correctly the dogs learn through reps of success, and will drag you to them to jump in and begin the action, wagging tails the entire time.

                                                    Nate Harves

                                                    www.sportwaffenk9.com