What Do You Look For In Choosing A Puppy... - Page 3

I cringe when I think of the possibility of a misguided person using jack blowhards methods on a litter of pups. There is plenty of times to see how a pup reacts to pain stim from vet visits, tattooing, and how the little lovers treat each other. There could be reasons why a pup at that moment in life reacts good/bad to stimulas. 

Rest assured I toned the testing way down on the puppies.

Wow...some people!

Anyone who's ever raised a litter of pups knows how rough they can be with each other. Try this test: take the web of skin between the thumb and forefinger of one hand, and begin pressing on it, using the thumb and forefinger of the other hand. Slowly increase the pressure while counting 'one thousand and one, one thousand and two,' until you reach 'one thousand and ten'. If the pressure becomes too painful, stop before you get there.

That's the sensitivity test. I don't regard myself as being terribly stoic, but I had no problem getting to one thousand and ten with the pressure!

And the other tests? Please explain how dropping a dog bowl on the floor is in the slightest way abusive to a puppy, that's going to be living in someone's home, and hear them bashing pots and pans about while they cook! (That's what I used for the gunfire test, as I don't own a starter pistol or a gun.)

The can of pebbles is rolled along the floor in front of the pup, not chucked at it. My future puppy, Star, ran after it happily, pawed it, and tried to pick it up.

I am sorry. My post was too strongly worded on Volhard. My reaction has real world experience. I have had the newbee want to test my litter when I know the person had no ability to rate what they witnessed. I have also worked around enough grooming biz to see how many well intentioned owners ruin their own dogs for cutting nails by teaching the dog to fight back. Everyone should learn from as many sources as possible. Reading is a good start but then go work with a breeder who has walked the walk. If this poster wants a GSD for a pet, go find good pets in your area, ones with the look and behavior you like and get to know the breeder. Working dog? go seek such a breeder. Kick ass man stopper? do more research on what that really means. 

Gsdstudent, I see your point now! If the dog starts to protest, and struggle, the tester is supposed to END THE TEST IMMEDIATELY!  Anyone who doesn't understand that shouldn't be doing the test!

I know when people come over looking at the puppies and start talking about using this or that method for testing the pups...I just listen and then they ask me what method I use...it's funny but it's "My Method" tee hee hee...I Watch and Observe the puppies in everything they do and how they react to things in life...
New things in their environment like new surfaces...Concrete...Asphalt...Grass...Dirt...High Grass...In some places...how they react to Ice on the ground...When they slip and slide how do they recover...How they react to Tree Limbs laying on the ground...Do they walk over it...thru it...what...You can see their little brains working...It's one of the most interesting things I do...
I think a good breeder can help someone find the right puppy/dog...Because they have seen the puppies and young dogs grow up and know how they react to different things...

I have for some people who want to know exactly what I've tested for and are wanting to buy a puppy..."site unseen"...Written down different things and how the puppies react to it...I grade them on say a scale of 1 to 10....I don't like doing it this way...Because in the end...and although...I think the tests did ok...It's not how I like to grade my puppies...I think it's more of how I feel about the puppy/dog and what I think they'd be good at doing and what kind of person they'd be a good fit for...

I wrote this post becasue I know everyone is looking for something different and have different ways of finding it...And am just interested in hearing what and how others come to a conclusion on a puppy/dog...
I know most breeders try very hard in placing their dogs in the right home with the right people and to do the job that the new owners want...I know I spend hours with new prospective owners trying to explain anything they might want to know and hear...I enjoy helping people learn about "Our" breed and feel it's my job to inform people about them...

~Bob~

I like to see how a pup recovers from adverse stimuli, noise, car starting, how they react with the litter (are they the alpha bully). Food motivated, for reasons stated earlier. Curiosity, go after objects thrown, will they go after it if thrown under chest or dark corner. I like to remove them from the litter put them on the ground and see what they do, are they still confindent, do they want to interact with me, if I walk away will they follow me or try to find a way back to the pack. But there is nothing like getting a young dog 8 months plus to figure out what they will be like. Pups are a crapshoot.

Kyle

When I see a litter of 6-8 week puppies, I look for (in this order):
Confidence - A pup that is happy to explore new things in his enviornment, that's in the lead of the pack, not just a follower. A pup that doesn't shy from noises. The look in their eyes when they come across something new is important. If they are still confident when alone.
Non-aggression - A pup that is a natural leader, and doesn't attack the other puppies.
Activity - A pup who's active, but with a puropose. 
Drives - A pup that likes to chase balls, crumpled paper and will hold a small tug with deep grip. Willingness to follow hand with food in it.
Willingness to follow me - A pup the will follow and come to me when I get its attention.
Conformation - A pup with nice proportion (especially at 6 weeks). Dark eyes, nice color, wide chest, long croup, amount of bone mass.

We've been having this conversation at club and are quickly coming to the realization that you really can't tell.  Paul is right.