Have a question on 13 wk old pup concerning people - Page 2

 Germ k9 lover.  --- you gave a clue ... " the haclkes up "   ... [he snaps" ....without much more stated  [and qualified here as i can't see the dog ] this dog is insecure. could be poor or not poor genetics..  you mentioned he had no bad experiences with people .. BUT ...BUT .. did he have the nurturing experiences from people before you got him ?? and what is the stress level of this dog  ? An insecure pup in an environment , not properly socialized -- this is the resultant behavior. THOSE are the operative FUNCTION . 1. the stress level with the dog to respond to a new environment or stimulus and 2. almost precisely to the day [ experiments and research proven] best time for pup to be placed to a home is 7.5 weeks and with security the dog must be exposed to as much of the real world as possible. hopefully even before 7.5 weeks the dogs is socialized with people and children . I start my pups being held even before the yes can open [ they can smell] . from there you have CRITICALLY from age 7.5 to 12 weeks tapering to 16 weeks a critical time to program the outlook of the pup to humans .. this continues up to the first  year. you still have some time -- everyday this dog must be in the public for at least 30 minutes . [ the parents are a clue to the stress level passed to the pup- they can't handle high stress then that will be the pup . ]. last word .. you must control the situation of the dog . yes  . i vehemently disagree with the advice previously posted here !!!.. YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE OUTLOOK AND FEELING OF THIS PUP / THIS PUP HAS TO CHANGE IT"S OUTLOOK  FEELINGS. it's not if you talk to the dog or not .. but HOW and When you talk to the dog. and I would not want anyone to ignore my dog !! nor do i want the dog to think on it's own and make the wrong assessment-- it is already telling you what it thinks, feels  and what it will do / hackles raised and a warning nip. BUT I CONTROL THE CONTEXT / SITUATION and TO ESTABLISH in the dog what i want/\  for example -- i take the dog out ... when i see someone a ways from the dog [ that is your judgement the distance , ]could be 5 feet , 10 feet ] , always keeping the dog comfortable - i'll  have steak , roast beef at the dogs nose. and feed as i walk or maybe stand still,  [ the message "dog when you see people and they talk to you from a distance it is advantageous to you ]. i calmly , softly , slowly talk to the dog " say hello , good dog". -i let the people talk too bbut i control if i let them close or touch the pup . eventually i want them to pet the dog but on the dog's terms.  .. let the dog associate the good feeling with what people normally do [ as long it is safe and secure].  .. slowly each time to you are able to walk right up to people with the dog comfortable . .. the next progressive step [ by this time the dog should be comfortable around people and in it's environment]. where you and the dog can be in front .. give food to people and and let the people give the steak . roast beef / cheese interact with the dog[ keep in mind the dog must be hungry when you work with food. you keeping your mouth shut and people always ignoring the dog .. teaches the dog nothing but to be ignored and that it lacks your support. 

Thanks alphapup i will remember all that....I took him out yesterday he did great and today was puppy class at the schutzhund club and he did even better today he did awesome I am really proud he did great with the people and the dogs..The trainer explained more to me too...I think hes going to do great we will be going out tomorrow too for more socializing and sitting in crowded areas with him....

 Germ K9 .. please don't dismiss the utilization of the food .. even at the club .. that is an opportunity to modify his behavior and shape the out look of the dog  ... ANYTIME , ANYWHERE , ANYPLACE is you goal now.  .. and aside from what they might say at the club. you have to get into the head and heart of this dog. LIKE PEOPLE - you can get anything you want by giving first what the other needs -- in this case the dog needs security , comfort , the assurance that it is ok in the environments and with people . also in doing so .. you will greatly gain his trust and confidence so that n the future if he does become uncomfortable his trust in you can become a stabilizer. if  a dog does not have environmental and social foundation by the time the critical growth period ends as hard as you try .. you may get this dog 98% but the dog will never be 100% sound in life. this will be burdomsome to you .. 

Thank you for all the good info...I am doing everything i can now with him he goes everywhere with me I will give my 100% to him...I just took him to the feed store and he did great with all the people and all the strange animals he went in confidently even climbed the pallets smelling all the feeds on his own...

generally your words have merit... i think people give to much advice on what THEIR experiences are... better to look at the particular dog .. case in point -- even if the 13 week pup on leash is handed over to someone else .. in this context.. that someone else may not be able to read or handle the dog  , is not a experienced canine handler and what if that person cannot get the dog comfortable , settled , promote a feeling of safety and security ?? THAT will exacerbate the problem .. And .. IF one decides to give the leash to another [ reminded that the dog has no relation to this person] then why in the world not have the person give a treat to this dog to create the association / the feeling that all is well ??  Food is not the issue .. nor the dog running up to people .. if you let a dog run up to people shame on you !! however and in addition at this early age , you can also simultaneously  teach the dog to sit / or stand calmly in front of people to be able to get it's treat .  the dog should always be controlled by the owner holding a leash ... AND just for the record : i have people all the TIME give my dogs treats when the pup is in the critical socialization period and when that is accomplished , then i train food refusal from anyone . that way no one will ever poison them .. i understand about letting someone taking the leash .. I have done that many a time in my classes- BUT when I am there  to watch and help [ or the owner is capable of reading the situation/the dog]  !!.. the PREMISE is THE OWNER [ or someone experienced ]  MUST CONTROL THE CONTEXT. you have to remember the people  often on this forum ASK ADVICE BECAUSE  THEY DON"Y KNOW / aren't experienced [ if they did they wouldn't have the problem] !

That is all true..I admit Im new to the working lines he is my 3rd so not so new just new starting with a young one
my male was 12 weeks when I got her believe me shes a handful but she is doing great she is 7 months now
my other one is a czech dog as well hes the father to the pup he was started in schutzhund and finished in protection
he was my first and he is who got me loving these lines and loving to work..So thus how the pup came along as I wanted to start with a pup and finish him myself in schutzhund I dont want him to fail...The trainer gave me some nice tips as well..As well as you did all great words of wisdom that I will carry on to set him up right...I also have a west working female that is so high energy it aint funny lol ball drive for days shes the new addition and she is working out just fine I got her at 2 yrs old...We are looking to do agility with her she is just now getting interested in bitework she has very high prey drive as well..
Im just having fun with all right now but my dream is to do my pup in schutzhund he will be my first that I started as a pup I want to experience it all from the basics to the titles...Im sure if we do it and make it he wont be my last so far I am loving the sport and am very excited about doing it....