Getting to Choose a New Puppy! - Page 1

Hello Everyone,

This is my first posting.  I'm finally getting my life-long dream, a German Shepherd puppy.  I will have the first pick out of three female pups.  What should I be looking for to make a decision?  By the way the puppy's parents are:

Gomes - http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/gsd/pedigree/470625.html

and

Eli - http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/gsd/pedigree/474346.html

I have tons of other questions, but I'll post them one at a time.  Thanks.

First things first, what do you want to do with your new puppy? Someone looking for just a pet will have different needs and can be more lax with their choosing than someone wanting to compete in shows, schutzhund, obedience, etc. Also, the temperment of the pup will play a huge part in what that dog is like to work with. This I know from experience, as I chose a pup with a hard temperment who likes to challenge me and chooses to obey when she wants to. SO what do you plan to do with this pup? Also, do you get to see them in person to choose one, or is it being shipped to you? DO you get to meet the parents?

Why did you select this breeding? Did  you know someone or was able to see what this mach will produce? Are you looking for pet/companion? Are you into dog sports? Do you have family or are you a single? Any kids? This is something that you need to answer before making decision. Active confident puppy tend to be harder to handle, lied back type of pup is more independent and fits someone that will leave the dog by itself for longer hours. I pick the one that got most fight in him, but that approach has it's negatives. :)

A lot depends on what you want in a puppy.  There are puppies who will be high drive, active, and dominant that will require a seasoned owner, and other puppies who will be more laid-back and easygoing.  Will you be able to see the puppies in person?  If not, be sure to get descriptions of each girl to make the decision easier.  Don't just be told "Oh, the litter is so great, they are all the same."  Each puppy has their own personality.  Remember:  Hopefully you'll have the dog for the next 10-12+ years, so a dog that doesn't fit your lifestyle and personality can turn into a nightmare very quickly. for both you and the dog.  Really examine the life you live and what goals you may have for the dog and let that guide you to the best puppy for you. 

OK,

Thanks to you who have replied quickly to my posting.  Here are the answers to your inquiries:

1. I saw the father of the puppy and I will get to see the mother and all the puppies one more time this week before I finally pick mine in three weeks.

2. I have a family with three kids; the oldest is 13 and the youngest is 8. We also have grand parents who are present all the time in the house.

3. The dog will live indoors with us.

4. I would like to leave my options open in relation to entering shows, competitions, etc.

5. My experience with dogs is taking a German Shepherd out for jogging on a regular basis for a couple of years when I was in my twenties.  The dog belonged to a neighbor.  I have also had a miniature poodle for 14 years.

By the way, we have a one-year old male cat.  Is this going to be a problem?  How can I get the cat to get used quickly to the puppy?

The breeder should know what the personalities of the puppies are like and should be able to recommend one for you based on your situation as you've described it. You need a puppy who is outgoing and confident, who doesn't get easily stressed and who is not a hard stubborn dog.

I assume you are in the USA.  AKC obedience, rally, agility etc.are open to any GSD. The AKC showring requires a specific type of dog; yours may or may not fit the bill. It's hard to tell with puppies sometimes. Showing in UKC is more relaxed; people show their pets in UKC and they also enter various obedience trials. USCA or WDA schutzhund takes a lot of time and effort and you will have to join a club or train with a trainer if there is one near you.

If you crate train your puppy - and I strongly suggest you do - then the cat will have time to get used to the pup at his own pace. Young puppies spend a lot of time sleeping for the first couple of weeks in a new home. I've had various combinations of puppies and dogs and cats and kittens for many years and never had a problem. Don't let one terrorize the other and it usually works out.

Don't expect to jog with your puppy until he grows up. Jogging on pavement is hard on joints and you don't want to stress a puppy's growing joints.

Best wishes to you and your new pup!

Any recommendation on a specific crate? I'm planning on getting an extra-large one right away.

Also not knowing anything about joinging clubs, what would I expect from a club and what would they expect from me (in addition to the registration fees?). I live in CA, in San Bernardino County.

Due to  your situation I would propably picka  puppy somewhere in the middle, I would not choose the most confident pup in the litter, I would aim for more independent, they usual are quite confident, and able to bond with any one in the family without being such a pain in behind as the most confident pup in the litter. Once again talk with the breeder he will know better which pup will fit the bill. Cat's well it will depend, but crate will make the transition easy. Yeah get the bigest crate you can find, buy one and call it a day, you won't have to buy one ever again.

From the limited info you have given... buy a middle of the road puppy, a "generalist" of the litter and you should do okay.

What does that mean?

When you go see the pups, pick the one that is:

Not the most confident of the litter, the one that comes up to you first to bite ankles, mess around with you, sniff you etc...

Not the most fearful of the litter either, the one that does not follow the rest of the pups that come to you and slinks back when you approach him

Not the one that when you have him/her say at 5 feet away from you looking up and you throw you car keys down on the ground. The most confident one will see the keys fall and make a noise, without hesitation will come up to sniff and investigate, maybe even pick it up in his mouth and sning a bit

Most fearful one will either stay motionless, or even retreat back a few steps.

"Your" pup will be a bit startled for a second then with "cautious curiosity" will either come to the keys or get close to it, or make a few steps in its direction

When pups are all together just buzzing around in the yard, call them to you in a cheerful, normal not shouting voice. The one that hits the ground and slams into you, or the one that does not come at all, or is last are not the ones. The one in the middle of the road again.

Crouch down and pick each pup individually. The one that is restless, wiggling, trying to get out, looking you straight in the eyes and struggles, even maybe nips your hand is not the one for you.

The one that plays "dead" when you pick him/her up, is totaly quiet, as limp as he can be, avoids eye contact, maybe even whimpers, shakes in fear or dribbles urine a bit is not for you.

The one that struggles a little bit, then settles in after 5 or 10 seconds and allows you to hold him, maybe even licks your hand is the one.

Have a puppy rag or a puppy tug and present it to each puppy. maybe play a gentle tug of war too. The one that hits the floor running, comes straight at it with no fear at all, grabs it like an alligator, nips and yips at it, shakes it, maybe even carries it around proudly is not the one.

The pup that retreats, takes a step back, or is disinterested like it didn't exist or totaly ignores it is not the one. The one that maybe takes a step back intitialy, but quickly recovers and his/her curiority gets the best of him and comes over and investigates and plays briefly with you a tug of war is the one.

Do this GENTLY. Hold each pup with your left hand and GENTLY pintch the webbing between his toes for 5 to 20 seconds. If there is o reaction from any one of them increase the pressure a bit. A BIT and GENTLY. The toughest one who acts like youa re tickling him is not the one. The one that screams bloody murder like you just killed him/her and yelps immediately, or even urinates and tucks his/her tail is not the one. The one that withstands it for a bit, then shows discomfort is the one.

There is more to do, but I am hungry and off to lunch.

Do these things more than once, if possible, once at 7 weeks and once at 8 weeks, maybe even once in between and record the responses on the piece of paper (identifying each pup and its responses).

These are just VERY general guidelines. Again... talk to the breeder. He knows the whole litter better than anyone and he will be able to make the best recommendation for you, then look ar your notes and choose the one that is a middle of the litter. Good luck!

And yes, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT go jogging with your puppy AT ALL for a while. Walk him, or even brisk walk, but no running with him. This "for a while" meaning for the first year at least , although it varies with each individual pup outt here.

The above is a pretty good post on how to pick a pup for your particular situation. This kind of puppy would probably fit well into your household as you described it.

As far as crates, go to PetsMart or PetCo and get a crate for a large breed puppy. YOu don't want a crate that is too big, or housetraining will be too difficult. The pup will simply go in his crate and then move away from the mess. You want a crate that the pup can lie down and turn around in. If you follow the Monks of New Skete's housetraining program in "How to Raise a Puppy" (a good book for raising a puppy) your pup will be housetrained in 2 to 3 weeks. Pups usually aren't reliable until about 10 - 12 weeks; my latest was fully trained at 11 weeks. It depends on the dog.