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by Crawfish on 30 January 2011 - 06:01
My wife and I will be whelping our first litter of WL/GSDs, and frankly it's a little intimidating. It's only been four years since we became involved with working dogs. We currently have an eight year old untitled (not untrained) Czech/DDR bitch. We have watched litters being whelped and followed the pups progress until they went to their new homes. Besides the usual assortment of training DVDs my wife spends at least an hour a day researching whelping and imprinting. Through the club we are being given a pretty thorough education. A few of the members compete internationally-one is a breed warden- so I'm sure we're getting solid advice. We're serious about doing this right.
Our friend is importing a Sch1/ZVV1/Kkl1 bitch from the Czech Republic. On her next heat (7-8 weeks) she will be bred and shipped to George. The puppies will be whelped in our home, where they and the mother will remain until they are 8 weeks old. We will keep pick bitch and co-own her with George. I might not so concerned, but this mating is causing a lot of excitement. Five breeders/trainers are on the waiting list three months before the litter is conceived. A lot of people have put a lot of effort into this litter and I just want to see to it that our part of this does the litter justice.
I would like to ask if there is anything you know now that you wish you knew before your first litter?
Our friend is importing a Sch1/ZVV1/Kkl1 bitch from the Czech Republic. On her next heat (7-8 weeks) she will be bred and shipped to George. The puppies will be whelped in our home, where they and the mother will remain until they are 8 weeks old. We will keep pick bitch and co-own her with George. I might not so concerned, but this mating is causing a lot of excitement. Five breeders/trainers are on the waiting list three months before the litter is conceived. A lot of people have put a lot of effort into this litter and I just want to see to it that our part of this does the litter justice.
I would like to ask if there is anything you know now that you wish you knew before your first litter?
by GSDPACK on 30 January 2011 - 23:01
That some females are very fertile, give you 11 puppies and then they start walking when they are 2 weeks and by eight you hate them ALL...lol
but good luck with you new adventure. I am sure with as much help as you mentioned, you will be just fine and very happy when the puppies are GONE!
Pack
but good luck with you new adventure. I am sure with as much help as you mentioned, you will be just fine and very happy when the puppies are GONE!
Pack
by cphudson on 31 January 2011 - 00:01
Good luck with the puppies! The links below will provide all the information you'll need to raise super working & stable temperament puppies. These techniques were prove highly effective through various assistance dogs / guide dog / military dog breeding programs. You will see amazing results!
http://www.puppyprodigies.org/Early%20Learning%20Program%20Highlights.htm
video - http://www.howcast.com/videos/210187-Creating-Super-Puppies-Early-Neurological-Stimulation
http://www.puppyprodigies.org/Early%20Learning%20Program%20Highlights.htm
video - http://www.howcast.com/videos/210187-Creating-Super-Puppies-Early-Neurological-Stimulation
by von Harasymtzuk on 31 January 2011 - 10:01
Good luck with the litter. I'm not sure what you feed your dogs, but I suggest finding a premium kibble with a low level of calcium (the bitch naturally produces calcium, too much can cause issues.) Many people are against supplementing which I somewhat agree but I religiously supplement all of my dogs and especially bitches, I suggest you do the same... they will be much healthier as will be the Dam. I highly recommend:
Salmon Oil (Wholistic Salmon Oil is the brand name)
Enzymes (Prozyme)
Probiotics (Probios)
Kelp (Wholistic) but don't give too much or everyday, I just put it in their meals every now and then.
Keep track of when the bitch was bred, and start taking her temp a few days before she is supposed to be due...average temp is 101-102 give or take..when the temp drops to around 99 or less, take her temp every few hours, if she maintains that tempt, she should deliver within 2 days. Some people think that you shouldn't interfere at all when a bitch is about to have her pups but I disagree.... make sure sure you have a bottle, milk replacement, hemostatts and like dental floss or some kind of thin, sterile string on hand...very rarely but sometimes the bitch cuts the cord to short and can cause the puppy to bleed to death....there's lots of other things but I've been up all night and need some sleep, I'm sure everyone else can answer your questions.
Salmon Oil (Wholistic Salmon Oil is the brand name)
Enzymes (Prozyme)
Probiotics (Probios)
Kelp (Wholistic) but don't give too much or everyday, I just put it in their meals every now and then.
Keep track of when the bitch was bred, and start taking her temp a few days before she is supposed to be due...average temp is 101-102 give or take..when the temp drops to around 99 or less, take her temp every few hours, if she maintains that tempt, she should deliver within 2 days. Some people think that you shouldn't interfere at all when a bitch is about to have her pups but I disagree.... make sure sure you have a bottle, milk replacement, hemostatts and like dental floss or some kind of thin, sterile string on hand...very rarely but sometimes the bitch cuts the cord to short and can cause the puppy to bleed to death....there's lots of other things but I've been up all night and need some sleep, I'm sure everyone else can answer your questions.
by Sunsilver on 31 January 2011 - 21:01
Bitch's milk replacer is a must. The Leerburg site gives info on how to make your own. They also have a video on how to tube feed a newborn that's too weak to suckle. However, I think you will have to get the tube from a vet.
A heating pad is another must. There are special ones designed for whelping litters that, unlike the ones meant for human use, are moisture proof and will not get so hot as to burn the puppies.
You also need to buy a pediatric sized nasal suction bulb for cleaning out the pup's nose and mouth after birth. Some breeders purchase this for suctioning, as it can go deeper in the throat and nose than a bulb: www.1cascade.com/ProductInfo.aspx and help save the life of a pup that has aspirated mucus or amniotic fluid. Some breeders also have oxygen available to help pups that are having trouble breathing. It all depends on how much effort you want to put into helping a pup that's in trouble. Some breeders feel you should just let nature take its course.
A weigh scale is also very important during the first week or two, so you can spot right away which pups aren't thriving, and may need extra time on the nipple, or a supplemental feeding.
And try, try try your best to either get oxytocin from a vet, or find a good reproductive vet who's willing to make housecalls! I'll never forget helping my friend to whelp her first litter, and having the emergency vet clinic say not to bother bringing the bitch in unless she was in distress, and if we DID bring her in, we'd have to wait a couple of hours, as they were REALLY REALLY busy! The idiot receptionist also refused to let us talk to the vet! As a result, we lost two pups that might have been saved if we'd been able to get the bitch an oxytocin injection when she got tired towards the end of the whelping !
If you can't get a vet who makes housecalls, be prepared to take the ENTIRE LITTER to the vet. Have a heating pad/hot water bottle, blankets and some sort of container you can put the newborns in. A clothes basket would probably work, unless the litter was very large. You must also protect the pups from all the diseases they could possibly pick up at the vet's. DO NOT let anyone handle them. I would even take a clean blanket to put on the exam table, to protect against disease transmission.
I've only helped whelp two litters, but they were both real learning experiences, and good examples of what can go wrong, WILL go wrong! You MUST be prepared for the worst!
A heating pad is another must. There are special ones designed for whelping litters that, unlike the ones meant for human use, are moisture proof and will not get so hot as to burn the puppies.
You also need to buy a pediatric sized nasal suction bulb for cleaning out the pup's nose and mouth after birth. Some breeders purchase this for suctioning, as it can go deeper in the throat and nose than a bulb: www.1cascade.com/ProductInfo.aspx and help save the life of a pup that has aspirated mucus or amniotic fluid. Some breeders also have oxygen available to help pups that are having trouble breathing. It all depends on how much effort you want to put into helping a pup that's in trouble. Some breeders feel you should just let nature take its course.
A weigh scale is also very important during the first week or two, so you can spot right away which pups aren't thriving, and may need extra time on the nipple, or a supplemental feeding.
And try, try try your best to either get oxytocin from a vet, or find a good reproductive vet who's willing to make housecalls! I'll never forget helping my friend to whelp her first litter, and having the emergency vet clinic say not to bother bringing the bitch in unless she was in distress, and if we DID bring her in, we'd have to wait a couple of hours, as they were REALLY REALLY busy! The idiot receptionist also refused to let us talk to the vet! As a result, we lost two pups that might have been saved if we'd been able to get the bitch an oxytocin injection when she got tired towards the end of the whelping !
If you can't get a vet who makes housecalls, be prepared to take the ENTIRE LITTER to the vet. Have a heating pad/hot water bottle, blankets and some sort of container you can put the newborns in. A clothes basket would probably work, unless the litter was very large. You must also protect the pups from all the diseases they could possibly pick up at the vet's. DO NOT let anyone handle them. I would even take a clean blanket to put on the exam table, to protect against disease transmission.
I've only helped whelp two litters, but they were both real learning experiences, and good examples of what can go wrong, WILL go wrong! You MUST be prepared for the worst!
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