Video of a real nice pup - Page 1

These take a minute to come up. Chris said he is having problems with is server so if they don't work try again later. I think they are worth seeing. Tell us what ya'll think. http://www.orkies.com/webmedia/baden/baden-ring-1.mpg http://www.orkies.com/webmedia/baden/baden-ring-2.mpg http://www.orkies.com/webmedia/baden/baden-ring-4.mpg http://www.orkies.com/webmedia/baden/baden-ring-5.mpg 4 1/2 months old, teeth falling out of his head, never seen another training field or decoy other than myself.

I forgot... This is the pup I got for 4pack but I think I'm going to steal him.

never seeing such stupids train, why dont you start a bit earlyer lets say with 10 weeks

I did. Started the day he got off the plane at 8 weeks. The stupid guy working with me happens to be one of the premier training decoys for French Ring in France. He was the main decoy in last years Cup of France and will be in this years World Monio Championships. Just a couple of dummies. Thanks for the compliment.

Why do think that you must work a pup this young in bite work? At this age you can only make prey. You will end up with a dog that will not bark, from the videos I would venture to say that this problem is already starting. Wait until the dog is seven months, do one or two sessions. Then bring him out at one year, when he can be worked in prey and defense. I know it is very hard to wait, but you will end up with a much better and more balanced dog.

I really like this pupster a lot! I wish the owners of this pup goes well in the future of schutzhund or whatever sport that hes going to work this pup under. Hes going to be a nice pup... according to what I've seen on the video. By the way... If this dog is teething and losing his teeth... DO NOT DO BITEWORK until the teething/losing teeth process is fully over.

This is a bad thing... with a pupy lakie this you have to work on a full grip... never let that puppy "out" on that sleeve... bad helper...

Get Real, you already know I like the dog, but I too think you're starting a little young. If it works for you, it works for you. Good luck. What sport are you training him for?

This is a post from another dog board, by I believe someone who was at the seminar. Remember this was French Ring not Schutzhund and they do not focus on a full hard grip as they do in Sch because their outs need to be much quicker. However this dog does have a full hard grip. We plan to title him in FR, Sch and Mondio maybe, and PSA of course is top priority in my book. (How were his grips terrible? Maybe you saw some different video? That dog had a pretty full bite on two out of the three videos. Only the second video where the decoy was moving away was a little off. Was the dog chewy? No. Did he regrip? Yes and he keeps coming forward. Pressure should be shown from the day you bring that pup home. Whether its rolling around with the dog or lightly touching the puppy with the clatter stick while he eats or plays tug. And you apply a little more each time they react well. How did the dog react when the stick was applied? Exactly how he was supposed to react. The person working the puppy in this video is a brillant trainer and pretty much the best French Decoy in the world. After seeing how they train in Europe and how we train here I now understand why the Europeans call our dogs weak. They dont take breaks in training for teething. If there dogs arent on the suit and taking a good deal of pressure by 5 to 6 months old they say no good.)

Also another post fro another working dog board, explaining better than I could about FR. (Due to the nature of the sport (decoys at higher levels does not give the dog the bite, but attempts to take it away) grips are not scored in French Ring. When it comes to points it doesn't matter how full or how shallow the grip is, as long as the dog can get the bite then hang on for the entire 10-15 second fight. Because of this many FR trainers teach what I call a "clamp and endure" style of biting. Catch the decoy, get whatever bite you can, and hang on. The dogs are encouraged to regrip when they have a chance, if they need to, but otherwise are just taught to stick that initial grip, and bite as hard as they can. If the dog initially catches the decoy with a 1/2 to 3/4 grip, they can regrip if/when they have a chance but they better be fast about it or the decoy will try to take off as soon as they feel that dog loosening up to open their mouth for a regrip. Either escape completely, or pull the leg out of the dogs mouth then try to scoop the dog or otherwise prevent them from re-engaging. Because of this style of decoy work, many trainers don't worry about teaching the dog to constantly counter for a fuller bite. You won't gain any points, and you may loose quite a few. Herve worked a number of pups in the seminar, and for the most part this is how they were worked. They were given a chance to regrip once in awhile, but then the pressure was on, teaching them to deal with it.) I am not stupid and I know my pup is too big, slow and heavy to exel in FR. It would be amazing, if as an adult he could do the jumps in the FRII and III but we will settle for a I and move on to the next sport.