
This is a placeholder text
Group text

by Sable boy on 20 May 2013 - 12:05
Got my beautiful sable GSD just over a week ago...and hes a darling... Only problem is he doesnt seem to listern or understand that when he bites...it hurts.... ive tried the whole "NO"...growling.....leaving the room....buisness...but once hes got hold of feet,ankles,legs etc....its hard to get him off....i swear he thinks its a game... Id love some constructive advice on maybe how to curb this behaviour because other than that hes a lovely pup :) Thanks

by Keith Grossman on 20 May 2013 - 13:05
LOL...uh, get a Golden Retriever?

by Sunsilver on 20 May 2013 - 13:05
Thats not very helpful, Keith! 
The point Keith is trying to make is that GSD puppies, especially GERMAN GSD pups (NOT American showlines) are much more likely to be little piranhas than large breed pups from other breeds. In Germany, no dog is allowed to be bred until it has at least a Sch. 1, and that means it has to learn to do BITEWORK. So, of course, breeders select for pups who show a desire to bite and hang on to things.
You can help prevent your flesh from being a target by having LOTS of toys available. Every time the pup looks about to bite. shove a toy into its mouth. You can keep it interested in the toy by moving it around: the movement is what will trigger it to latch on.
If it does latch on to your clothing or body, do not fight with it, as that will encourage the little monster. Just give a firm NO, pry its mouth open to remove the teeth, and shove a toy into its sharp-toothed little maw. Praise it when it plays with the toy.
It's part of having a GSD pup. It WILL get better with time and patience.
And next time? Research the breed a bit more carefully, so you'll be prepared!

The point Keith is trying to make is that GSD puppies, especially GERMAN GSD pups (NOT American showlines) are much more likely to be little piranhas than large breed pups from other breeds. In Germany, no dog is allowed to be bred until it has at least a Sch. 1, and that means it has to learn to do BITEWORK. So, of course, breeders select for pups who show a desire to bite and hang on to things.
You can help prevent your flesh from being a target by having LOTS of toys available. Every time the pup looks about to bite. shove a toy into its mouth. You can keep it interested in the toy by moving it around: the movement is what will trigger it to latch on.
If it does latch on to your clothing or body, do not fight with it, as that will encourage the little monster. Just give a firm NO, pry its mouth open to remove the teeth, and shove a toy into its sharp-toothed little maw. Praise it when it plays with the toy.
It's part of having a GSD pup. It WILL get better with time and patience.
And next time? Research the breed a bit more carefully, so you'll be prepared!


by Sable boy on 20 May 2013 - 15:05
Thanks for the post :-) i did do my research and of course i expected him to bite....the reason why i posted is becoz ive tried all the methods people use for the teething...like i said...the no doesnt seem to work and distraction only goes so far.... I will find something that particually works for him....i was just seeing if anybody used any other methods that were successful :-)

by bubbabooboo on 20 May 2013 - 16:05
Start on marker training with food and teach him "nope", "no", "yes", "good" in the next two to three weeks. Then you will have some communication with the puppy. I sometimes use a kevlar sleeve (glass cutters sleeve) which you can get on Ebay cheap to protect my arm and let the little guy bite some at first. Also I wrap my arm in a hand towel and let the puppy bite on the towel and use that to transition to playing tug until he starts teething. Empty soft drink and water bottles made of plastic are great toys (cut off the label and dispose of with the ring and cap). I feel that the puppy is going to bite and play with something so you can direct his play or the puppy will choose his own targets. Once you have some marker words in play you can correct him without any physical stuff that may be overwhelming for the puppy (ie you won't need to pry him off all the time).

by RLHAR on 20 May 2013 - 16:05
"Got my beautiful sable GSD just over a week ago"
Yes, I have a method, it's call patience and consistancy.
This is no different than house training, in that you have to be vigilent, fair and consistant with him while he goes through this stage of puppyhood. Biting like this will even take longer than potty training because right now he explores his world with his mouth (and those itchy needle teeth) and needs to be fairly taught what is yes and what is no but again, you must be patient and consistant, it will come but you need to give him more than 'just over a week'.
Yes, I have a method, it's call patience and consistancy.
This is no different than house training, in that you have to be vigilent, fair and consistant with him while he goes through this stage of puppyhood. Biting like this will even take longer than potty training because right now he explores his world with his mouth (and those itchy needle teeth) and needs to be fairly taught what is yes and what is no but again, you must be patient and consistant, it will come but you need to give him more than 'just over a week'.

by Sable boy on 20 May 2013 - 16:05
I understand just over a week isnt long but thank you.... Like i said before and i will say it again.... I was looking for a productive way that could curb this teething stage on our skin.... As the nos and everything else hasnt been effective.... Everybody finds it difficult...like i said any advice gratefull....cheers :)

by Hundmutter on 20 May 2013 - 19:05
Works better with some pups than with others,
but you could try the "freeze and squeak 'Ouch!' "
method. Stop still; withdraw attention from the
pup; except to say a loud OW as his teeth connect.
Fairly easy to teach all the family; but as I don't
train for bitework I have no idea if this is a 'good' or
'bad' method for dogs destined for that. : )
Apart from that suggestion, I would echo the others:
Be patient, consistent and repetative, whichever method
you use - a week really is only a few days ...
and persevere with distracting on to chew toys (this will
pay off along the way in that its not just your skin it will
save but your furniture too, once he is teething).
Which by the way means you may stop him mouthing
now for a while, but when he starts teething he may start
to bite all over again ! [May not apply - you don't say how
old he is].
but you could try the "freeze and squeak 'Ouch!' "
method. Stop still; withdraw attention from the
pup; except to say a loud OW as his teeth connect.
Fairly easy to teach all the family; but as I don't
train for bitework I have no idea if this is a 'good' or
'bad' method for dogs destined for that. : )
Apart from that suggestion, I would echo the others:
Be patient, consistent and repetative, whichever method
you use - a week really is only a few days ...
and persevere with distracting on to chew toys (this will
pay off along the way in that its not just your skin it will
save but your furniture too, once he is teething).
Which by the way means you may stop him mouthing
now for a while, but when he starts teething he may start
to bite all over again ! [May not apply - you don't say how
old he is].

by Markobytes on 20 May 2013 - 21:05
Give the pup raw marrow bones and/ or bullysticks to chew on. Tire the pup out, have him chase a soft toy attached to a rope keep it alive when he catches it lightly tug then let it go limp, when he drops it bring it alive again and have him work for it. As Sunsilver advised, redirect the pup to a toy that you carry with you when you perceive yourself to be a target. Don't jerk your hand away making it more desirable to bite, shoving your hand into the back of his mouth makes it less desirable and hurts less. Do not use your hands as bite toys. Take the pup out and let him follow you around of leash, get him used to keeping track of you, this is your golden opportunity to take advantage of his need for you, and it will tire him out to keep up with you. You are at a critical stage in his development and are imprinting a lot of behaviors that will stay with him for the rest of his life. Physical corrections at this age can damage your relationship with your dog. There is a common belief that pups that bite and draw blood make the best adults. Plastic water bottles can make an excellent distraction although I wonder if they set a habit of mouthing the sleeve and dumbbell in Schutzhund dogs latter on. The key is to get him tired and make available alternative things to bite.

by Eldee on 21 May 2013 - 16:05
It gets better, but it does take time. Even though you think you are wasting your time trying to train them, you have to keep at it with the toy substitution trick. I think it is just part of the breed as pups. I have never had a shepherd that hasn't been a biter, and I can't really say biter, because when they are pups they aren't anything, really. Just a blank computer chip that you need to fill up with programs. It will pass as long as you reprimand your pup every single time. Welcome to the club.
Contact information Disclaimer Privacy Statement Copyright Information Terms of Service Cookie policy ↑ Back to top