Daira Elzmundungsraum - Page 1

This female is owned by a UK judge Sue Belfield!!!! "Videx 2006 Sieger impression" Mr Payne states that she should be placed higher (yes nice female)!! But why, when a female will never be able to contribute to the breed having BAD elbows and NOT be allowed to be used for breeding under the German system We are not talking about hips or elbows N.Z.(A3)but A4 not to be use for breeding In UK everthing goes including over size

Gio I'm sure in all countries their are over size dogs, maybe if you put an oversize dog to a bitch who keeps the size down in her breeding or a small bitch then what's the problem. To me Bad Elbows is a bit different to over size dogs. LC

Bad elbows cannot be excused or taken lightly, as they can be even more crippling to the dog than bad hips. However, this problem (like HD) can have environmental components, most notably human mismanagement. It is a common problem for breeders who produce high drive working dogs (and sell them as such) that the buyers want to test and show off their pup as a sort of prodigy. So, they train with a ball, or a stick, and throw the item for the enthusiastic pup. If the pup really runs to the ball, and stops hard, an enormous force is distributed to the front legs, and thus the elbows. This sort of exertional excess can prevent proper development of the elbows. In very young dogs, there is small bone, called the "anconeal process" which is critical to development of a healthy elbow. It is separate in youth, a pointed / curved area in the elbow assembly, which must fuse onto the end of one of the long bones. I think it is the "ulna" (as opposed to the "radius"). This may not happen properly if the young dog is submitted to unnatural forces. I had a situation with a "know-it-all" sport enthusiast buyer, who never actually trained a dog for titles, etc. but liked to show off prodigy pups by throwing objects for them to chase. She used to tell me how this one pup would climb and walk planks, or run all-out to get the ball when she threw it. Guess what? That dog later had two bad elbows! So, I replaced the pup with another good one, and it happened again. And again. I finally had to stop replacing pups, because no one else was having this sort of problem but her. The numbers finally told the truth, but I was out a lot of money and some very good pups were wasted. Because of this sort of thing, I do not even like to send a puppy to a "sport" trainer anymore. Novice sport trainers have ruined a lot of good prospects, and often under equally clueless teaching trainers. My recommendation is to build your pup's drives, but cautiously. I would use a "flirt pole".. A long piece of 1/2 inch or 5/8" white PVC water pipe would do fine, with a hole drilled in the end, a cord passed through the hole (or duct taped on) and a ball or rag on the end of that. The ball or rag can be attached with velcro, so the pup can win it's prey. The whole idea is to provide a teasing toy which is presented to the pup at or slightly above the level of it's shoulders. This way, when the pup catches the toy, it will not "prop-stop" on it's front end, after dashing madly to get it.

DDR DSH I love your flirt pole (although it does sound a bit "risque"!) Especially the bit about the velcro attached prey - off to the haberdashery tomorrow to buy some and have some fun with the pup. Thanks for the tip