Dog Aggression- 6mo German Shepherd - Page 1

I have a German Shepherd puppy who I recieved at 13wks old, Leo Von Haus Royal. He's never been attacked just barked at, and doesn't recieve enough socialization because nearby where I live a lot of people own bully breeds and are not trained (and or calm). I've been taking him to Canine Concepts to correct the issue and it has gotten a little better but he still is highly aggresive. I've switched him from a flat-buckle collar to a choke collar to a prong collar all with little-strong corrections but he'll only respond for THAT day.

The dog doesn't have to provoke him for Leo to lunge/bark and he will bite if given the opportunity. What should I do? (I'm a trainer's apprentice and this is my first working bloodline dog)

P.S He's also very mouthy (constant bites and nips and barks/bites more if corrected)

http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/german_shepherd_dog/dog.html?id=706822

(Location: Canine Concepts, Leo is the smaller Shepherd, the other Shepherd is Dr. Cohen's Princess Von Haus Royal)

As far as the dog reacting to other dogs you just got to overcome that still by correcting him even if the other dog are acting crazy at the same time if the dogs are acting crazy and your dog is calm for example after you correct him it's just a bonus if he stays calm because a dog is going to get worked up if another dog is worked up

you're on the right track......continue.

take your dog out to every (safe) place you can. continue with working with Canne Concepts...

Be very careful with prong collar corrections for dog aggression.  Pain induced corrections, especially "little-strong" corrections can escalate aggression and easily make the situation worse.  If you are working with a trainer that's great and needed.  A correction should be strong enough to stop the behavior immediately and also to prevent  it from happening tomorrow or next month.   

P.S He's also very mouthy (constant bites and nips and barks/bites more if corrected)

 That is exactly the problem with a correction that is not applied properly.  If you do not get a handle on this you will be getting bit soon when delivering these corrections.  The correction should stop the behavior not make it worse.  I would really advise against the prong collar for dog aggression with your dog; until you are sure the dog will not redirect to you and you learn how to deliver a proper correction. 

Good luck,

Jim

@Slamdunc: I thought I shouldn't use a prong either because of what I've read but my trainer put one on and it gave us the best response because he basically ignores corrections with the other two collars, and with older 1yr+ stable dogs a prong correction stops the behavior, I believe if I continue the socialization and training in an environment with older stable dogs will prove to be beneficial
and
About the redirections, I forgot to state that, thats only in-house, outside he has never redirected for a correction derived from dog aggression

You MUST work with an experienced trainer that can teach you the correct TIMING...TIMING and Type of Correction is the key to having an Effective Correction...You can/should work your dog on it's own...then work him around other dogs...
You shouldn't use a Buckle Collar for this type of problem...You can't get an effective correction...You MUST use a proper TRAINING COLLAR...No matter if you use a Choke Chain...a Pinch Collar or some other type correction device you MUST have help in learning how and when to use it and what is the proper hardness to use...
You are doing the right thing in seeking experienced help but learning more is always a real plus...Continuing to seek the answer/help to your problem is always a great thing...Sometimes it's very hard to admit what your problem is and that you need help...
Please continue to do your work and you will not only help your dog but you'll learn a TON along the way...

~Bob~

Jim, you took the words out of my mouth. Get rid of the prong collar, and forget little harsh corrections. A correction is not a correction unless it changes the dogs action. how much is required? the amount that it takes to work. If you continue to do what you are doing dog will just get worse. He is a pup and will eventially grow up so you should do it now.
Hank

I agree with all the commentors. But looking at the picture above, unless he, Leo, is keyed on another dog (and I know its only a picture) but Leo isn't paying any attention to the dog next to him. The way the two humans are looking it's as if someone is speaking. Not saying you don't but you need to read the dog, not saying you don't have a good grip but have leash control, especially if he's a lunger.

If you're making Canine Concepts once a week you're going to need more.

I have seen trainers use a choke coller for dog aggression lifting the dogs front legs off the ground until the dog settles used as a correction for reactivity. I believe the choke out takes drive away from dog and is a method described by Leerburg I have seen also. Is any one familar with this correction method and it's effectiveness to counteract dog aggression, lunging etc???  

@Q man- TIMING YES, that's what my trainer said I lacked, he said my corrections are perfect/nearperfect strength for what Leo is doing but my timing is bad and yeah I have been learning a lot, especially working with him via food drive, he'll zone out and ignore other dogs.

@desert- I had leaned away from the idea of a prong collar also but he has a high pain tolerance and just plainly IGNORES a correction from any other collar but that one. So when my trainer said he needed one and we switched he made a dramatic change (he was worse) and it does change his behavior but I don't get enough chances to correct him on a day-to-day basis, I describe it like cramming for a test.........then taking the test 1mo and 2wks later it doesn't always stick with you (him).

@Alboe- Yeah that whole day we were doing heeling and focus work. At the time he was looking my trainer and me and mrs. cohen (the lady) was looking at the Mal he was working with. As far as reading him goes, after he does his lunging and gets a few good corrections he'll behave in distances like that (ALWAYS) and I only have to get ready if they are too close (within 2ft) my trainer always makes a verbal reminder because there 3/7 dogs there are reactive dogs. Yeah I do need to get out there more but Canine Concepts are 9am-5pm until Summer then it'll be 4pm-9pm so that's what I've been waiting for because I'm also a student-athlete (soccer and football) and an Personal Training Intern at Urban Active so my free hours don't start until 5ish.

@Rexy- My trainer stressed away from that too saying the dogs showed less drive so I don't think it's appropriate-And you should start up a topic if you haven't already