Working on cross tracks - Page 1

I know how I approach teaching cross tracks on a dog I'm getting ready to FH but since there are many avenues to get to the same destination I was wondering if anyone else would share their experiences/what has worked for them in the past with the rest of the class?

Good and timely topic (for me)  I have only recently begun to work on cross tracks with my dog, so I will be watching this topic for hot tips!!!

I am utilizing x tracks that are at least a day older than the tracks I am laying.  They have been other people's schH tracks and  also  tire tracks.  What I have done is shortened my own footsteps through them, and also made sure I really scuffed in my own, and originally baited in each of my footsteps where they are going through the X tracks.  Now I am no longer baiting through the X tracks, but I am baiting in my next footstep or the one after that, beyond the X track. 

So far this has worked for me.  My dog has not had trouble staying in my tracks.  He has head checked the X tracks but remained on my track.  I don't know if this is through sheer dumb luck  or if what I have done has been correct. 

Sue,

That's a really good first step in working cross tracks!

I'm a bit more aggressive in that I will start with just one leg, let it sit an hour and then put a cross track over it.   Where I cross, I bait the primary track like I would a corner for reward.  Then I let everything sit another half hour.  When I run my dog up the leg, I keep a short -about 3-4 feet- on the leash and if he picks up the cross track I lock in place not moving any further and let him 'work it out' on his own till he gets back to the primary track.

It takes a little bit of distance read I'll admit, because what I want to do is not punish him for 'tracking' even if he picks up the wrong track but if he works the cross track with no reward or encouragement from me, then comes back to the primary track, finds his food reward and keeps going I really praise him up.

I find that after a couple of one legged tracks like this my dog gets the idea of which track brings him his reward and my positive reaction and he might head check the cross track but that's it.

I just really never want to end up in a position where I have to correct my dog for 'tracking' even though he's on the wrong track.  Hope that makes sense. :)

Okay, so I see what you are saying.  That makes perfect sense, especially the locking up and allowing the dog to work but on short lines so that he can't go too far afield.  I was taught, as you mention, the  reward   comes  from the track, not from me or my hand, so I think what you describe will work for the way I have been training.

Thanks!!!!  

 I'm gonna try it tomorrow when I go tracking.... naa,  now I'm so excited to try it,  I probably will go out today. 

I hope it helps!

Also, don't be afraid to step up and 'sook' him to the correct track if he starts to get flustered and looks like he's going to quit.  You probably know this but you don't want him to get frustrated and just shut down.

The nice thing about working with 'one leg' is you can lay multiple short tracks like this and just practice, practice, practice.

There is 50 replies on B/S threds and 4 on something valuable like this?

Anyway... to the cross tracks.

 
I use articles as my little helpers, I teach the dog to IGNORE cross tracks, I dont even give the dog a chance to go wander around. I do as usual, at this point the shortest track is about 900 paces. Even a happy track as I call them are at least that long. Usually I have 2000 paces if I get ready for FH1 and 2500 for FH2.
Cross tracks of another person:
My track, about an hour old. I ask somebody to cross is betveen EXACTLY where I marked it. (in between 2 articles about 6  feet apart and I make sure they are a little covered so the dog MUST use the nose to find them.
I do the same with the road, teaching the dog to cross the road and keep the nose down so it is not looking for the end of the road ( Clear plastic article with a dot on it, fo me to see). 

I hope it makes sence It actually isa very simple concept.
Pack

GSDPack

That's a wonderful hint for working the road crossing!  What do you use for a clear plastic article?  Do you make one, like cut out of an old soda or water bottle or something different?

FHTracker

I found piece of plastic and I asked my friend to cut it for me and that was it.. I think it was an old Green hause wall...

gsd pack- its always that way.


What i will generally do when im intro'ing cross contamination into a track is:

i will regress and only run the target odor in a straight line- say 100yds. however previous to me laying the track i will have multiple people run 3-5 cross tracks aproximately 1 hour previous to me laying the target track. I also come back up close and personal with my dog. to help if need be so he doesnt get off track and fail in the beginning. or bait. etc.... I also want the wind to coming in at the dogs back to front to keep the dogs nose on the ground and keep it fairly simple. I also make sure it is organic surface only in the beginning before progressing onto man maid surfaces.

As the dog becomes more advanced at it i will close the time frame of cross contaminators and target track. as well as making it more difficult with less help and or baiting.

Im with FHtracker, i tend to be a little more aggressive as i do real life SAR and have certified trailing dogs. I want them to progress rather quickly.  if they cant keep up then i dont run them. but some dogs respond differently too so its all in what your doing i guess.