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by cledford on 24 February 2009 - 20:02
I'm a helper in training and things have been going pretty well so far, been working on it for a little over a year and I haven't been bitten anywhere I shouldn't have been yet. Did get a good chomp on the thigh when a showline dog bit me when I was working with his handler (in OB!) on playing ball - entirely my fault, didn't know the dog and missed the warning signs as I was engrossed in talking to handler. Anyhow, that having been said, the two places I'd never want to get bit would be the hands or face. (There's a 3rd place, but I wear a cup) So, regarding bitesuit work - every decoy I see is typically working with hands, face and neck unprotected. I've always wondered why the dogs don't target exposed areas, or if they do or might and there is some technique that decoys use to avoid getting bit in these areas that isn’t readily apparent. I know in Schutzhund, we consider dogs who target the hand or elbow (and I'm not talking about an occasional bad presentation by helper, rather the dogs who ALWAYS target low or high on the sleeve) usually weak or with nerve issues. Is the assumption the dogs working on bitesuits stronger and not interested in going for the hands? I'm always amazed by the videos I see of decoys even rolling around on the ground with the dog gripping the chest, arm or leg and no apparent concern that the dog might let go and chomp the face.
Anyhow. would love to hear about suit work. Any links to websites that have the basics would be appreciated as well.
Thanks!
-Calvin
by 4pack on 24 February 2009 - 21:02
by Slamdunc on 24 February 2009 - 21:02
When it comes to the face if you are figthing the dog on the ground it is the handler's responsibility to protect the decoy's face. The handler will put a knee or leg between the decoys face and the dog. If you keep moving and fighting the dog generally they won't regrip too much and you can keep them in one spot. If there is a leash on the dog the handler can put heavy back pressure on the leash which will cause the dog to bite harder in one spot and not regrip. This also helps in grip development. Conversely, with practice you can also move the dog to different spots. If we are doing a scenario with a decoy in a tight spot, like the trunc of a car or laying concealed in the back seat of the car the decoy may wear a helmet for added protection.
FWIW,
Jim
by Scoutk9GSDs on 24 February 2009 - 23:02
A lot of dogs are biting the suit and not the man. You will be able to tell pretty fast if the dog is really trying to light you up. On a dog like that stay on your feet and keep your hands pulled up in the sleeves. Watch the dog's eyes.
On a sporty type of dog.........take a nap if you like and have the handler wake you when he outs the dog.
by Jenni78 on 24 February 2009 - 23:02
by Get A Real Dog on 25 February 2009 - 00:02
First instruction in bitework by my first teacher.........
Don't put your hands or face in the dogs mouth.
Most bites to hands or unprotected areas are the fault of the decoy.
When you introduce a dog to suitwork, you usually (should) teach the dog to target one or two specific places. Then later on, teach the dog to take what they can get if the preferred target is not available.
Good dogs will not transfer on a suit. Just like good dogs that are sleeve sure. Dogs that transfer usually have some issues.
However, once a dog gets a bite on skin and gets that re-action, they will likely try to go there again, which can create problems. My old dog got a face bite, and a neck bite (both of which could have been prevented) and started going real high and tight, hanging off the decoys shoulder and collar. She was a bitch and liked to punk people so once she got that reaction she liked it.
A friend of mine had a GSD patrol dog that liked to hurt you. He started doing out Platz and the dog got dirty and bite a few feet. The handler let him get away with it and it got really bad. To the point, I didn't like working him anymore cuz I always had to worry about my feet. I have a nice scar on the back of my ankle near the achilleas (sp?) tendon. Another officer (not the handler) had the controller and thank god he was an experienced handler and was paying attention, or my tendon would have been hanging out the back of my leg.
Anyway with proper introduction, targeting, and a good dog, it usually is not a problem
by Scoutk9GSDs on 25 February 2009 - 00:02
You guys keep believing that........
.by Get A Real Dog on 25 February 2009 - 01:02
If you have a dog transferring on a bite, you have a dog with issues or some very poor training.
by Scoutk9GSDs on 25 February 2009 - 01:02
by Get A Real Dog on 25 February 2009 - 01:02
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