Conformation handling question - Page 1

Ok, so I am painfully inexperienced with conformation handling but I'm trying to learn. I know, I know, find someone in the flesh to help me, I plan on it, but I know folks here have good experience, too.

I think I have a good handle on correct pace and gait, I think my eye for a stand is ok, but my question is, what is the best way to handle the lead in movement to keep the dogs' head up without limiting front reach? How can I prevent a dog from digging in? Can anyone post a picture or a video of good handler form that I could look at?

I plan on handling my daughter's puppy in the ring, and she's a pistol, so I think I need all the help I can get.  I would be willing to video myself handling and email it to anyone willing to critique me, I'm not comfortable posting it publicly.

My advice would be to join a local dog club, specialty or all breed, and ask around for conformation classes. This is show season and many clubs offer conformation practice sessions for several weeks prior to the show. These are usually free or offered for a nominal cost to members. You may be able to find a professional handler who belongs to the club and will offer private lessons or just give you tips.

Don't be embarrassed by your lack of skills. Admit that you are a  novice and people will be willing to help you at the club. If they aren't, keep looking for good clubs.  I watched a GSD specialty conformation show this morning put on by my local club and the 6 to 9 month puppy dogs were a handful for even the pro handlers. The antics the male puppies got up to were quite fun to watch, although some of the handlers weren't amused. Specialty judges are more lenient with puppies than with adult dogs.

Go to shows and watch the handlers with the puppies and dogs. Watch what works and what doesn't. Above all, with a puppy, have fun. I assume you are showing in AKC, so check the akc website (http://www.akc.org )and see if there are any fun or no point matches in your area. These don't count toward a championship but they are a great way to get experience. You will find specialty clubs links on the AKC website and also show schedules.  You might also check out the UKC site (http://www.ukcdogs.com ) for shows.

Good luck with your puppy.

Sam

If you have the puppy on lead get your daughter to walk in front and call her, she should then strain forward and hold her head up, especially if she is offered treats for moving correctly.

KC,

you need to hold the leash short and high when you start out initially. Don't worry about the front reach. If the dog has it, it won't be restricted by that. Only dogs who have mastered to pull evenly should be allowed the full reign of a show lead. We teach our young dogs early on what the meaning of "hopp hopp" is. Pulling out to the end of the lead and gaiting. If the dog breaks its stride, you take the lead back in with a slight tug. That alone usually causes the dog to correct the gait. When the dog tries to constantly sniff the ground, you need to give a correction with the lead. But that is when the dog knows what he is supposed to do.

To start out: Sombebody needs to go in front and get the dog's attention, either with food, a toy or just simply by calling. Some dogs need a closeby person (especially puppies who are easily distracted), others a greater distance (otherwise they pull themselves into the ground). And others are so attached to a person, that this person needs to hide. Conditioning is everything, because after the initial few rounds, a lot of dogs will break down rapidly, especially the ones which pull themselves into the ground from the beginning. With a puppy, the initial training sessions should be short and happy. Remember to always go back and praise and touch the puppy. We differentiate training sessions between ring work and road work. Ring work teaches gaiting skills, especially around the corners. Road work brings conditioning and attentiveness. We like to go into the woods, luckily we have these old logging roads right behind our property in a big state forest. But this would not be right at the beginning of a dog's show training.

Also remember: In the German showring, a dog is not required to hold his head up in an unnatural swan like way. As long as he is not constantly sniffing the ground, he should be fine. At an event, the excitement is usually great and there are lots of things to see and take in. Constant sniffing is rare, unless there was a female in season.

Chris

Sam- I was was referring to SV conformation, I should've specified, sorry.

Chris- thanks. I have the basic idea, I handled once before and of course double handled for my dogs when they were being shown, but I'm concerned about not holding the lead at a correct angle to complement and control her. She seems to do better with my daughter farther rather than close, she is a drivey beast like her mom and goes too nuts when her person is very close.

I have seen some handlers hold their lead very high, others hold it even with their chest or even their waist. What is best for which pace and situation?

I think I have a good handle on correct pace and gait, I think my eye for a stand is ok, but my question is, what is the best way to handle the lead in movement to keep the dogs' head up without limiting front reach? How can I prevent a dog from digging in?

With a puppy that is still learning and is pulling too much & digging in... slow down.  Only give her enough leash to be right out in front of you.  The key is to make her EARN  the leash.  As she gaits correctly and pulls nicely, slowly let her have more leash. If she slows down too much or starts to gallop, take her back down to a short amount of leash and make her earn it again.  When you get to a corner, the handler should also take up the leash again and go around the corner wide so that the dog doesn't learn to cut. 

KC,

as Gefaehrlich mentioned, it is important for a puppy to learn the correct gait and stride to go out in front and around the corner without weaving, slowing down or galopping. This can only be taught on a short lead. Once that is done, you can allow more lead. The angle of the lead and/or how high it is held is not important. That depends on the heigth of the dog, the length of the lead and the speed of the gait. You will naturally get an idea about that. Walking slow on a short lead will cause you to old the lead high, running on a long lead, you will hold we lead more to your waist. The most important thing is that the lead is not distracting the dog.

Chris