Training thread - Page 4

dont look to me for answers, i failed my sch 3 twice for no out.

i think im going to try don's  flinkivandean method.

john

This topic was covered in some good detail here:

http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/gsd/bulletins_read/210249.html#210738

Pictures, and some step-by-step type explanations.

                                             Nate

Anyone else care to share methods and results? I went to a FR club Sunday and my dog bit 2 new decoys on a field he had never seen before, sand in a covered barn with horses, chickens and a pot belly pig running around. Got the same results as we do on our home field, he's still outing.

if he is still outing with new decoys and at new places, i would say keep doing what you have been.  good luck

john

Thanks John, that's my thoughts too. Just trying to keep an educational thread here, among all the shit but no one wants to talk shop. How many people really work their dogs and how many of those even understand what the cause and effects are for what they train?

"Duh, uh I just do what my TD tells me to do, I don't ask questions."  

lol,,  add to that , how many people work their dogs on a daily basis?  maybe thats too much, ok what about every other day?

hell, im one of the club training directors and i ask myself questions all the time. 

anyway, jokes aside, i will play.

i think i have used most of the methods talked about here and on the "outing problem" thread.  at one time or another, with any given dog, i have used many methods.

hold the dog up by the collar and wait for them to drop the sleeve and tell them good out.

play 2 ball, when they bring one back tell them out, and wait for them to do so, then throw the other toy.

used the flanking idea as flinks shows

had the helper give the correction (as nate described)

used a 3rd person on a long line to correct the dog toward the helper with the handler out of the way.

electric.

i cant say i have ever used more than one method at a time.  its more of a progression from one way to the next as the dog matures and is able to handle more pressure as he/she ages.  before i am asked, no there is no set timeline for progression.  as I was told a while back. "the dog will tell you when he needs more"

does one work better than the others?  depends on the dog and handler.  i know that may seem like a cheap, cover all basis answer, but it is the truth.  training is a finesse thing.  lets face it, if there were an easy training method, one way covers it all, then we would all be competing at the national level.

john

 what you dont want to talk about the bbc not showing crufts?

Bitework everyday? Oh geez no, but OB yes. Right now its bitework 3 days a week. I'm sure my dog woud be down for more but you can only do it when the decoys are available.

bitework everyday?  of course.   you let your dog bite the tug/ball as a reward for ob.  you tell he/she to out the toy.  to me this is foundation work for biting and outing the helper. 

i do a ton of rag and tug work with my pups before they ever see a decoy (besides me).  they are imprinted  to bark at the toy to make it move(dog has to bark to make the man move later), when they bite i will pet them over the head and start to tap them on the side (gets them ready for stick),  when we play tug i will tap on there toes to make them pull backwards to win the toy (teach them to win, you must pull,,,, later this will become the start of fighting the helper)

so many little things you can do with your dog to make them all the more prepared for the decoy. 

john