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by sueincc on 03 May 2010 - 17:05
Ideally or in a perfect world they do. Certain exercises are supposed to show defense like attack out of the blind, attack out of back transport, courage test, re-attack. The escape bite is in prey. Hold & Bark is supposed to be defense but many times these days the dogs are working in prey drive.
by FHTracker on 03 May 2010 - 17:05
BabyEagle,
I'm not sure if I understand your question but I'll take a stab at what I think you're asking about. :)
In a trial, the dog is switched between prey and defense through the protection routine. In a *PERFECT* world it would go like this.
Dog searches the blinds - prey
Dog finds the helper - Cap prey, settle into defense.
Dog is called off helper - Cap drive in obedience to handler.
Helper is called out - Cap prey drive in obedience to handler.
Fuss to position - Cap prey drive in obedience to handler.
Escape - Prey
Lock out - Cap prey, obedience to handler.
Reattack - Defense (The helper should present the stick threat before every moving his sleeve)
Drive - Defense/Fight
Stick hits - Defense/Fight
Lock out - Cap defense, obedience to handler.
Handler approach - calm confidence with defense focus on helper.
Fuss down the field - obedience to handler.
Long attack /courage test - Defense/fight as the dog is going head on at a charging threat.
That is the basics with Sch II and III adding elements that further demonstrate control and drive balance. Now can a dog in a trail be worked in all 'prey' technically speaking yes, if the helper is soft on the dog and the judge isn't paying attention.
I'm not sure if I understand your question but I'll take a stab at what I think you're asking about. :)
In a trial, the dog is switched between prey and defense through the protection routine. In a *PERFECT* world it would go like this.
Dog searches the blinds - prey
Dog finds the helper - Cap prey, settle into defense.
Dog is called off helper - Cap drive in obedience to handler.
Helper is called out - Cap prey drive in obedience to handler.
Fuss to position - Cap prey drive in obedience to handler.
Escape - Prey
Lock out - Cap prey, obedience to handler.
Reattack - Defense (The helper should present the stick threat before every moving his sleeve)
Drive - Defense/Fight
Stick hits - Defense/Fight
Lock out - Cap defense, obedience to handler.
Handler approach - calm confidence with defense focus on helper.
Fuss down the field - obedience to handler.
Long attack /courage test - Defense/fight as the dog is going head on at a charging threat.
That is the basics with Sch II and III adding elements that further demonstrate control and drive balance. Now can a dog in a trail be worked in all 'prey' technically speaking yes, if the helper is soft on the dog and the judge isn't paying attention.
by Wolfinbok on 03 May 2010 - 17:05
Baby Eagle,
Very good question, it kinda took me by suprise.
Working a dog off his prey, or defence drive. This is a hard nose
question. The dog will generally have one drive more than the other,
but we love dogs that have both in high amounts. They are easier to
train in bite work.
I remember watching old timers jack a dog up with prey drive so much,
you honestly could not tell which drive they were in.
The general rule is to work the dog in the drive it shows the most.
It is hard trying to bring out prey drive in some dogs who show only defence.
I think it is easier to bring out defence from quote a "prey dog".
This has been my experience, but my time is limited so I look for
a dogs that have high enough levels of both, this saves me time,
I have already spent time trying to train dogs that should have not been
selected. So, no more. Only very good dogs will I train. Hope that does not
sound high and mighty, that is not my point, only how you can use your
time more effectively. You will spend the same amount of money feeding a good
dog as you will a bad one. And over time this amount you spend on dog food, will be
much more than the purchase price of the dog. So choose wisely and ask for help in choosing.
Very good question, it kinda took me by suprise.
Working a dog off his prey, or defence drive. This is a hard nose
question. The dog will generally have one drive more than the other,
but we love dogs that have both in high amounts. They are easier to
train in bite work.
I remember watching old timers jack a dog up with prey drive so much,
you honestly could not tell which drive they were in.
The general rule is to work the dog in the drive it shows the most.
It is hard trying to bring out prey drive in some dogs who show only defence.
I think it is easier to bring out defence from quote a "prey dog".
This has been my experience, but my time is limited so I look for
a dogs that have high enough levels of both, this saves me time,
I have already spent time trying to train dogs that should have not been
selected. So, no more. Only very good dogs will I train. Hope that does not
sound high and mighty, that is not my point, only how you can use your
time more effectively. You will spend the same amount of money feeding a good
dog as you will a bad one. And over time this amount you spend on dog food, will be
much more than the purchase price of the dog. So choose wisely and ask for help in choosing.
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