Comment on this training routine - Page 2

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Two Moons

by Two Moons on 07 December 2009 - 20:12

I would like to see proper equipment, harness and some give, either a human on the line or in my case I rigged a garage door spring.
More enthusiasm on the part of the man working the dog.   It seemed sluggish with little battle, not enough tease, no excitement from man or dog.
I don't do Schutzhund so I see things differently, and my agitator is always a stranger. 
It just looked more like play than real work.

snajper69

by snajper69 on 07 December 2009 - 20:12

There is nothing bad to work dog in a pray, a lot of trainers work their dog to put bite foundation, as long as you work in pray there is no negative impact to a dog, neither wrong association. Yes you can create bite issues but that only if you don't know how to do proper bite foundation (so once again if you don't know what the hell you doing, don't do it leave it to someone that knows). Now you should never put your dog in a defense, thats where ever thing goes south, because you put too much pressure on a dog, and the bad association will ruin your bond with the dog. Once again if you don't know what the hell you doing don't do any work on your dog as a decoy, leave it to someone that knows what he is doing. I will watch the video once I get home no access to youtube at work lol.

4pack

by 4pack on 07 December 2009 - 20:12

I don't see anything wrong with working my own dogs when they are young. I tied my dog to a fence post or the hitch on the back of my truck. Of course someone else finishes them up when they are mature. I even taught my dog a bark and hold on myself first, then we went to the decoy/trainer to put it on him. Just taught my dog an escort on myself too, haven't had a chance to put it on the decoy yet but my dog has no issues learning to switch over. I'm just teaching the word to the action and when he has what the word means, we put it into action at training. Gives me something to do at home (away from traning days with the club) and saves time at the club for something else we can work on.

99% of my time with my dogs is by myself. I'm always looking for something new to teach or keep them busy. My dogs get tired alot faster when I challenge their heads not just their bodies.

I didn't watch that whole video BTW but if he is just tapping some prey, fixing grips and teaching targeting, why can't an owner do that if they know how?

Two Moons

by Two Moons on 07 December 2009 - 21:12

My only real problem is I don't like to see a dog on a collar attached to an immovable base, I don't think its good for the dogs neck and throat.
That's what a harness is for, and I like my spring, I feel it encourages the dog.

I too am by myself most of the time, and there is nothing wrong with that.

When I see stick strikes tho I consider it agitation and I prefer that to be done by another person.
And at that time I don't want the dog to let go until I give a command, same way when its just a bite exercise.

Perhaps I misunderstood the video.

I know I'm an amateur for sure, but I have had good results in the past doing it my way.




snajper69

by snajper69 on 07 December 2009 - 22:12

Stick hits, just like bite work with your own dog if done correct can be performed without any negative impact on a dog, you just desensitize dog to it, you don't start by slamming the dog but increase the pressure a bit, I do that to my own dogs, it starts as a game, soon it no different than me petting it with a stick.

steve1

by steve1 on 07 December 2009 - 22:12

When ever do you see a Helper go down on his Ass like this Guy did and lift the dog off the ground at chest height when the line was pulling tight against the fence and with a collar on That was amateurish to say the least he could have used a proper harness, No that did not impress me one bit nothing in that video that was good at all
Steve1

by michael49 on 07 December 2009 - 22:12

I'm with held,snaiper69 and 4 pack working the dog in prey , fixing the bite,teaching the dog to target, stick or whip is normal equipment in this excerise, he's not teaching the dog to out at this point moons, just to target and bite.Some use a wide leather collar, some a harness, Personally I thought  the dog was tied to high  on the post,sometimes resulting in the dog flipping over backwards.Also I thought he slipped the sleeve a little prematurely on the first bite I would have waited untill the dog had his feet under him. altogether I thought the guy did a decent job with his dog.

Two Moons

by Two Moons on 07 December 2009 - 23:12

I teach out, stop, quit, leave it and all of the above from the first time its needed when the question arises.
Not comparing what I do to Schutzhund.
Same with the stick, in Schutzhund its a routine, here its real.
I shouldn't even comment on such videos, but it's a Monday.
But I've seen videos of great trainers and this just didn't cut it for me.

by michael49 on 08 December 2009 - 00:12

Moons, nothing wrong with commenting on the video, its just like any other training everybody does things their own way.I agree with you about the spring and harness less trauma to the dogs neck and I belive it builds more frustration during this type of work.But like I said each to his own, at least hes working his dog.

Slamdunc

by Slamdunc on 08 December 2009 - 01:12

I'll add my thoughts for what it's worth.  I prefer to use a harness with a young dog when doing agitation work, especially when the dog is back tied to a post.  I don't think an agitation collar causes any neck problems.  It may cause the dog to gas out sooner but that's all and it depends on the dog.  I've worked many dogs on post with an agitation collar with no problems.  I will usually use a harness but it depends on what we're working, there are times I prefer the collar.  The fence has "give" and you can the "give" in the video.  I will often back tie a dog to a chain link fence only I use theactual fence as it does have more give.  When I set up the back tie on post I set it at about 1 1/2 times the shoulder height of the dog.  This way it is not to high and helps to prevent the dog doing a back flip. 

First, I'm not sure this guy is the dog's owner or handler.  I get the feeling this guy may have just taken the dog out of a kennel to work it.  I like this dog; he appears to have nice drive, nice grips and a good temperament.    I don't see a problem with the way the dog was being worked as it was primarily worked in prey.  I wouldn't have stood so frontal to the dog while working it in prey and I may have used the whip differently.  Overall, it was not a bad set and the dog did a nice job.  I don't have a problem introducing the stick to the dog in this way and the dog had no issues with it.  If you are training for SchH or PPD or police K9 the dog must be introduced to the stick early.  You don't have to actually give stick hits so show the stick and accustom the dog to it.  This can be in the form of stroking the dog with the stick while it's on the bite or swinging motions over the dog's head.  

I know some excellent helpers that will work their own young dogs in prey in a similar fashion.   I will work my puppies on a rag or tug just to introduce them to the bitework.

JMO FWIW,

Jim 





 


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