Breeding a very dominant female. - Page 2

   I totally agree Red Sable. I have one GORGEOUS Solid Black female, now 8 years old. Never been bred! And she has Free Rein over my Entire Property, 42 acres. Never, has she wanted to stand for a male. Her Perogative. Who am I to Hold her down and force it. Let someone try that with me. Yes ,She is a Dog, BUT, is She "JUST A DOG"? No, never!

Your vet sounds like a quack.  I have never heard of an ovulation detector!  Now, I have seen vets take a sample of the cells inside of the vulva and look at them under a microscope to help determine wheather a bitch is ready or not but an ovulation detector???? NO WAY!

Best ovulation detector I know is a progestrone test or the stud dog!

Vickie

www.PowerHausKennels.com

noooooooooooo nooooooooooo nooooooooooooooo

*not getting involved.............breeding a dominat female...............no*

does she look pretty

Well, her presence in heat around a strange dog is going to cause her alarm and some fear.

I usually say 2 weeks coming in 2 weeks going out. They seem to be very responsive just after the end of the second

week of coming in.  If she only bled for 3 days that is too soon for her.

The vet's tool probaly measured her temp. and hormone level. A young experience vet with no knowledge of breeding is going to give you his best guess as what to do. Tools are nice but she needs to be ready.

But , my dog goes nuts and wants to mate after the second week. She is very hormonal!!!!   She probaly would be more than likely to show the male she is ready not so close after starting. So, if they already tied then don't go again, this will

just make her more nervous, maybe sore and stressed. If she does not conceive you can try on her next heat cycle.

I would not bred an aggressive dog, nor a dog with bad hips/ and elbows.

I only bred if dog also has passed the BH and one title on top of above criteria.

sorry the title of this post threw me, breeding a very dominate female

I have a very dominate stud....................lol I have missed out on this gsd breeding larky.................his hipscore is over the breed standard, but he is adorable

stud fee stands at 500 pounds he has a very good pedigree, 5th ped can be seen, but please do not ask about siblings, aunties or uncles cos they are shit..................but whats a secret between friends

 The device the vet used sounds like an estrogen detector. It is made to be used on pigs. Estrogen levels are not an acceptable way to time ovulation and breeding for bitches. You are way better off using a LH test kit. Go to CamelotFarms.com. They sell them. You only have to know how to draw blood. Do the test every day and compare tests to tell if she is going towards or away from the breeding date. LH stands for "luteinizing hormone". Some very advanced laboratories can also do an assay for LH levels, but this would be much more troublesome and expensive. The kit Camelot Farms sells can be used at home. Another test you can use at home is done with a microscope, swab, slide w cover, methylene blue dye, and a hobby microscope. You are looking for the maximum number of cornified epithelial cells in the vagina. They actually do get large and look sort of like corn flakes.. rough and thin, with corners, and no nuclei. This will tell you when you are in the zone. Then you can use your LH assay test kit to better pinpoint the date. Using the smear test is less invasive and helps to save on the LH test kit materials, so you only have to do about three of those, on average, and you can keep the remaining test kit materials in the refrigerator for another bitch, later on. 

With most bitches, they are ready to breed when they will stand for a male. There is a good reason for this. Swelling must go down a lot or the breeding is painful for them and can cause ruptures of the capillaries in the mucosa, which is engorged with blood and very sensitive. There are some frightened, spoiled and nasty bitches which do not want to stand for a male, and they can be force bred, but not before they are ready. If their cycle is so odd that the swelling is not subsided when they are actually ovulating, then confirm that by test, and try to use an AI setup, which is very non-traumatic. 

Also, important to note that some bitches do have a very tough stricture or web of tissue, which prevents the penetration of a male. Digital examination will confirm this. This can either be cut by the vet, preferably beforehand and in time to heal, or the bitch can be inseminated artificially, and when she is ready to whelp, this stricture will become so soft that it will not impede the birthing process. It will also go away on it's own, after the first natural whelping of a litter. 

There are still a LOT of veterinarians who don't know beans about how to breed dogs. This has not been helped by all the anti-breeding rhetoric coming from the mandatory spay / neuter nut-cases and animal rights activists, out there. But in all my years with the dogs, and all of the veterinarians I used (whom I left owing nothing..something a lot of breeders cannot say), the most successful and largest veterinary practice by far (60 on their staff!), catered to dog breeders. So, vets ought to think about that, before they dismiss dog breeding as a non-lucrative clientelle. 

Folks shouldn't be so quick to disparage that which they aren't familiar, and they definitely shouldn't call anyone a "quack" unless they're very, very sure of their information.  The OP's vet is not a quack for using the device--he's actually pretty progressive and was willing to spend about $500 for a piece of diagnostic equipment.

Yes, there IS an electronic ovulation detector available that is made specifically for use with dogs. I've never used the device, but that doesn't mean it doesn't work--just means I've not used one. 

http://www.quinncarlin.ca/DODManual.php

I love the dominant bitches.  They are real dogs, self confident go getters.  I have more than one myself.  Veronica