Shy puppy - Page 2

Thanks for the great advice. We got him at 7 weeks exactly. We had first pick and he was the one we chose. He lived in a kennel but people regularly came and played with them. He was friendly and outgoing when we got him. Nothing happened to make him afraid - and he isn't afraid, he just doesn't like his head touched. Eventhough he likes to ignore strangers, get one of them to run by him and he just wants to chase them. He is CRAZY about chasing people. Myself, my husband, even strangers. We can't let him because he will bite their ankles. As funny as that would be, it might not be as funny to a stranger. He's still a baby and I will just continue doing my best. thanks again! Melissa

Melissa, I once enrolled a puppy bitch of mine in a puppy class where the teacher placed all the owners and puppies in an approx. 20 foot diameter ring (12-15 puppies)and allowed them to run free for part of each class for "play time". If any puppy started getting too aggressive, that puppy was lightly sprayed with a spray bottle. There wer rotts, GSDs, dobes, goldens, and much smaller puppies. I had signed up my GSD puppy in this class because I wanted her to be socialized to get along with other dogs, especially small dogs, since she seemed somewhat aggressive to other dogs. It was a surorise how these classes changed my puppy's behavior toward other dogs and people. These socilaizing pack experiences of the puppies playing with each other really changed the behavior of the puppies and made them more stable, outgoing and self-assured. It was amazing to me how much the puppies enjoyed the class each week and the profound effects of inceasing confidence. This did not in any way stifle the prey drive or natural defensive drives of my puppy but enhanced them and made them more appropriate, while making the puppy happier, more outgoing and well balanced. I was surprised at the outcome since I didn't understand pack socializing before this. I would hypothesize that your puppy may have been taken too early (I like to see puppies stay with their mom and littermates until 12 weeks for the above reasons, also allowing 80% valid xray eval of the hips for HD). In my experience a puppy taken before 8 weeks often has a developmental delay which is caused by that. This increases the puppies startle response and makes it hypersensitive and uncomfortable in new situations. Resocializing the puppy in a multi-breed pack appears to remedy this over a six week period in most cases and the puppy learns to love getting out and meeting new dogs and people at these classes (the caveat here is you must have a very experineced teacher for the puppy class who exudes great confidence and exuberance with the puppies and can handle them all expertly). Stay the course and I think that everything is going to work out just fine for your puppy.

Sorry, Preston..... I couldn't disagree more and I just read this last post of yours(haven't read any others)... it has been proven time and time again that puppies are ready to leave their litters anytime after 7 weeks. No puppy needs to stay with its littermates until 12 weeks, a lot of conformation people do this because they want to see if they can make a better structural evaluation.. read all the experts and all the studies done by Skinner, et al on behavior and bonding and social skill development.... Besides that, most working puppies are killing each other and it is time for them to bond with their new families. Furthermore, it it my opinion and a good number of people also involved in not only competitive dogs but pet dog training as well, that puppy playtime in a group class is a waste.... personally, my new puppy playing with other dogs is the very last thing I am interested in.. I'm just curious..... what tyoe of dog activities are you involved in?? How long have you been doing this?

Sorry I may be off thread here, I too had a shy puppy, the cure was simple, in the comfort of your own home, then moving on to a club venue get everyone to ignore your puppy, he will eventually overcome his fear of people as he will become more and more curious and will eventually choose to investigate the strangers they should still ignore him completely until after while he will seek a response from them by nudging them only at that point may they acknowedge him, but they must not attempt to pet him this will be allowed much later. Continue this with more and more visitors etc and you will eventually see an improvement. Also Continue the daily socialising but do not allow anyone to aproach him, he should always be in control of this, ask every one to just ignore him. this worked spectacularily well for my girl, but it took a few months.

Preston, DKiah, there are plenty of studies supporting both claims. From personal experience I can only say that I would never want a 7 week old puppy from someone else and would never part with a pup at 7 weeks. Melissa, your puppy is aloof, not shy. He backs off because it is not allowed to do things according to his time and terms. Not every pups are social butterflies. Just like people you have more extroverted and more introverted types. He reacted more openly when you picked him at because he was on his turf, he was just one of the gang and was doing what everyone else was, and had mom as a back-up to boot. Absolutely no comparison to where you are at in a park, where he is now by himself (meaning no other pups), no mom and he is heavily relying on you at this age to keep him safe. He is in fact outgoing in that he loves to chase people. He just does not like to be confronted with them upclose. All normal. When people come up to him I would just let them ambush him just because he is so cute. Give people instructions that they can pet him if he comes to them, otherwise not.

oops, was sent a bit early. He will develop a comfort zone and will probably start to become interested in strangers if they speak to him and allow him to make the decision on his terms. And if they go down to his level, instead of bending over him. Just about every shy or aloof pup will aproach a stranger that has made themselves small like they are and entices them to come to him rather than beding over the pup and crowding it. He is too young to be confronted with so many different things right now. He is telling you, its not the right time, so give him time. And if he ends up ignoring strangers for the rest of his life its not such a bad thing. People will not, or should not approach a full grown shepherd and think that it is ok just to pet the dog. If he keeps to himself without being confrontational you actually are saving yourself a whole lot of hassle down the road. Different pair of shoes when you have to teach him not to jump on other people and have to start paying dry cleaning bills, or medical bills when he knocks someone over. The oh so happy bouncy puppy is cute at 10 weeks, not so much at 10 months+. Why should other people be holding him? Other than family and the vet? You can reward with food when he is at the vet so that he makes a positive connection. When you are out and about food treats should be reserved for dealing with you only. Food should not be handed to your pup by strangers, unless you are in a training session. You never know what the timing is, what exactly you are rewarding. Is he being rewarded the moment he pulls back? The verbal praise he is getting during the approach and the cuddles upon successful contact should be reward enough by itself.

that was supposed to be When people come up to him I would NOT just let them ambush him just because he is so cute...

Good points! Thanks so much! Would a puppy that is head shy be able to be a schutzhund dog? Also, why does he so desperately want to chase everyone, including strangers and bite their ankles? Is he herding them? He doesn't just nip, he holds on! It's embarassing, but super funny. Thanks again

Hi Melissa He isn't hearding them he is hunting them what you are describing sounds like prey drive to me, give him a ragga to play with and encourage him to play with toys which run away and most of all stop him from holding peoples ankles, it may be amusing now but it won't be when he's bigger. You will need to sort out his shyness problem before you attempt schutzhund training, and ask yourself some important questions about his lack of confidence and where that could lead when he is taught to bite.

Hi Radical, thanks for the response! Ben has come a LONG way since the beginning of this thread. He goes right up to people and lets them touch him, but still doesn't really want his head touched. He loves it when I touch his head and face though. If someone ignores him, he will chase them down. He is fine with crowds and such, but we still have to hold him tight when someone runs by. If we let go, I fear he'd be gone forever. If someone is on rollerblades - even more of a challenge for him. That little bugger can run REALLY fast. His biting has gotten better. He is 12 weeks old today and very intense.. he's really fearless, which scares me, because if he's high on top of something - like stairs - he will fly right off not caring about his landing. He's already gone to the vet once for xrays, thankfully, nothing was broken. I have to either watch him constantly or put him in his crate.. he knocks down the dining room chairs (solid Oak) and drags them as far as he can go. Why does he do this? On the bright side, he is incredibly sweet and affectionate and I can take him anywhere. He loves Home Depot. Both of his ears went up this week! Here is his new pic. Thanks for the advice, I will be gettig one of those rag thingys this week. http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/gsd/pedigree/470542.html Melissa