Biting - Page 4

OK WAIT I did not suggest Euthanasia, What I meant was this and I see it EVERY SINGLE DAY... person gets dog does not know how to handle dog, Does not get correct training for dog and then does not know what to do with dog when it gets older. Gives it away and then those people don't have a clue and they give it to shelter or turn it loose and it ends up on a table somewhere. I did not explain it that way maybe I should have, But in NO WAY was I suggesting euthanasia good lord NO ! I appologize for the misunderstanding there. But did not want to see the above chain of events come to this dog. Melissa, if your intention is to do some training woohoo I say GREAT ! and best of luck, I am sure you will have things worked out with this pup in no time, for some reason on your first post I took it that you were not prepared for such high drive, My Mistake and My Bad and I totally appologize ! Please know I wish you and your pup the very best.

Echo -- you have a point -- i think many of us see this everyday too -- there are people that want a cetain breed --- GSD , dobe , rotte even a Husky .. and they have no knowledge about the specific bred whatsoever about why the breed is the way it is -- i personally try to screen very carfefully those i place puppies with , give them a little mini prep course about rearing and interacting before they actually take the pup home and have written in contract that they must take the pup to puppy classes and at least basic obedience classes -- Melissa hang in there -- patience and perservence will develop a fine GSD

Echo, I understood exactly what you meant.. I was just confirming for the people who might have misunderstood. Thank you all for the wonderful support and advice. I set up "Ben's" website at myspace and here is his address... hope you like the title :) www.myspace.com/BenThePunisher Only a few pics up but I'll put more up asap! :)

Hi Melissa, when you have any type of conflict you have the options to either engage in that conflict or to disperse it. When you flip your pup on his back and not do it right, your pup will start to fight back. Dogs will reprimand swiftly and surely and once the pup is on the back that will be it. The other dog will not likely stay over top and keep the pup there. I bet that when you tried this, you grabbed and tried to pin him down and keep him pinned. And all along while you did this you were also angry and/or afraid. This would put any pup in panic mode and into a situation that it will fight and also try to get out of at the same time. Hence the reaction you got. Yes, you should be able to put your pup on his back, but try this during a more neutral time first. Take him, turn him over, hold him down if need be while you remain calm, use your legs if you have to, and then wait until he settles down. Some pups put up quite a struggle, so the pup needs to learn that it has to do it. Meaning, you need to finish what you started. Never start something you cannot see through. Once he is on his back and settles down just stroke him and show him that he has to submit to that position but it will be a safe position. If you try to pin him down while in emotional uproar (ie angry) you are right out fighting. If that happens a few more times the day will come when this pup will have learned when and how he can keep the upper hand. And come soon. If you cannot gather control of an 18lbs pups now, wait until in a matter of a few weeks he will have doubled and then trippled his size and weight. Next time you engage in play, always have two toys handy. Never engange in play without it. This way the play object is already the toy. No body part of yours, none of your clothing should be seen as an acceptable toy. He needs to learn this now. Two toys so that he will not run off with one because he has won his booty. The second toy will engange him to keep coming back. Let him fight for his toy a bit and even win it, but entice him to bring it back for more one on one action with you. When he opts for grabbing you or any part of you, then is the time to redirect the play back to the toy. For that to work you have to make sure that the object of play was never you to begin with. Food is not a reward to give at any time when you have a direct conflict in which you are getting hurt. Food should be a reward for things well done that have been asked of he pup. Not for redirecting a certain behaviour unless you are doing clicker training (which might be a good subject for you to read up on). When your pup starts to bite your hand push a piece of his flews between your fingers and his teeth, so that every time he bites you he also bites himself. If you actively squeeze any part of his mouth, the resulting discomfort is not a direct result of his behaviour. Biting his own lips so to speak when he grabs you provides an instant message: biting that hand is unpleasant for me. Avoiding getting grabbed by him in the first place is still the better option. cont...

cont... Next he needs to understand that he is hurting you. When your pup starts to get out of control you need to do what he will understand. If you push him away, that will engage him to come back for more. Pups bump each other to continue rough play. If and when you have had enough you need to let him know. Pups will yelp when the other gets out of hand. Next time he starts to go at you but is not really in full mode yet, remain calm but shout out a sharp and loud "AU". In other words, your own yelp. The pup will most likely stop for a moment. Do nothing. When he comes back for another nip (also most likely), do it again - "AU". Then ignore him. He needs to learn that if he does too much, he gets a negative reaction. Negative reaction does not have to be a pinch or a slap. When pups play and one gets too rough the other will eventually just walk away. So you let him know with a strong vocal reacion "AU" that he is too rough. If that is not working then you simply are no longer interested in play. Next time if he wants to play longer, he has to learn what will make that happen. So stay consistent - the moment teeth come out, play stops. As long as he plays nicely, play continues. For the times when you feel like you might be loosing control and cannot regain it, put a short piece of leather or nylon leash on him that is attached to a flat collar. He should be wearing this all the time until you feel that you have the level of control you need. A short piece about a foot long, that has a single knot tied to the end. No loop that could get caught up somewhere. You can buy these, but also make them yourself easily. The cheapest version is a very cheap nylon leash from a dollar store that you cut the end off and then put the knot in. Spray some bitter apple on it so that you don't have to buy new ones every two days. Now you have something to hold onto in case he gets out of hand, other than the collar. It keeps your hands out of his reach. Lets say the AU is not working. You said it once or twice and no reaction from him, he keeps pounding you. You walk away, he attacks your ankles. You then grab the bit of leash, lift up on it so that he has to stand or at least sit. He will probably struggle against this the first few times. Keep calm and keep your position while he is putting up a fight down below. Insist on him being an arms length away from you, and finally sitting or standing (and probably PO'ed). When he stops struggling you take him to his crate to give him a short outtime. No angry words, actually no words period. He got out of line, so he has to go to his naughty step so to speak. His action brings forth your reaction of just putting him in the corner without much fanfare. If he remains calm in there let him out after 5-10 minutes. If he starts to make a fuss in the crate, leave him in there until he is calm. cont...

cont... You need to learn that ignoring the pup is a very powerful tool. Profusely reward what you want to see, and instead of punishment and right out conflict, react to unwanted behaviour in an unemotional manner, but consistent, fair and firm. Stop the moment you see a result, and then ignore to diffuse the situation (also diffuse any anger you may feel as a result of your pup acting out). Antics are quickly forgotten by the pup and you can then resume where you had left off before within a few minutes. Doing something different when you resume interaction with your pup will often help too, because you do not want to set him up for conflict situations all the time. Also learn to anticipate what he will do when and avoid provoking unwanted behaviour. Focus on enforcing good behaviour. Good behaviour should always be rewarded, and with just as much consistency and consequence as the unwanted behaviour. We tend to take what we want to see and need from our dogs for granted. So - remain calm and cool when things start to go wrong, be consequent without getting emotional, ignore when needed, and make good things fun.

Thanks so much, D.H. I will be vigilant! :)