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by jc.carroll on 19 September 2010 - 04:09
I sent over an email to Dr. Fitzpatrick. I figure, why not?
In regards to Bella, she's actually only 9months, less than a year; not over a year. I got that backwards.
As for standing pictures, I took several before I left, but while they looked fine on my camera's LCD screen viewing them on something much larger, they proved to be completely out of focus and utterly useless for showing the problem. That being said, when she stands, her feet all have that flattened look with upcurled toes that the bottom picture shows. I don't know how that's even possible on her hind feet, but it is.
The biggest problem with her toenails is that they never touch ground, and have no natural wear on them at all. Her owner does clip them, hence the flattened tips in the pics, but apparently when claws never touch ground, the quick goes all the way to the tips, and doesn't recede when clipped like nails on a normal weight-bearing toe would.
In regards to Bella, she's actually only 9months, less than a year; not over a year. I got that backwards.
As for standing pictures, I took several before I left, but while they looked fine on my camera's LCD screen viewing them on something much larger, they proved to be completely out of focus and utterly useless for showing the problem. That being said, when she stands, her feet all have that flattened look with upcurled toes that the bottom picture shows. I don't know how that's even possible on her hind feet, but it is.
The biggest problem with her toenails is that they never touch ground, and have no natural wear on them at all. Her owner does clip them, hence the flattened tips in the pics, but apparently when claws never touch ground, the quick goes all the way to the tips, and doesn't recede when clipped like nails on a normal weight-bearing toe would.
by hexe on 19 September 2010 - 06:09
The quick of the nails will recede over time if the owner trims the nails *weekly*, but it will entail taking a miniscule amount of nail each time and doing it religiously over several months before the nails get down to a realistic length. It would be worth considering having the nails cut back to a normal length by the vet while the dog is under general anesthesia; that way, the bleeding of the quicks could be controlled quickly via cauterization, and although the dog will be somewhat sore-footed for a few days, she won't associate it with having a nail trim, and may have a better chance of being able to walk on just the pads of her feet--the length of the overgrown nails absolutely prevents her from having anything resembling a normal use of the feet as things stand presently.
When you say the dog was acquired from a breeder, just what level of breeder are we talking about here? Someone who actively shows, etc., or just someone who breeds? Because the only time I've seen feet even remotely resembling these have been in dogs that were raised in raised 'coops' with wire flooring...and that would fit with a pup that comes from a 'commercial' breeder (as in, breeds for and sells to primarily pet shops).
Excerpted from
"FLAT FEET IN PUREBREDS - by Louis Pegram (Director of Professional Services, Ralston- Purina Company)
The complete article can be viewed at:
content.breederoo.com/users/rlbush/files/newsletter5.pdf
One of the most detailed studies was the offspring of three Greyhound bitches
which had excellent compact feet. AII the puppies raised in the first litters
and maintained on smooth, flat concrete footing with ample room for exercise,
developed flat feet. Second matings were made, maintaining the brood matrons
on the same diets. This time, half of the puppies of each litter were raised
on three inches of sand placed over concrete. The remaining puppies, raised on
concrete, were again flat-footed. Those ralsed on the sand and concrete had
normal toes and proved satisfactory for racing and coursing.
It was further found that once the bones in the toes had straightened or flattened
out at the knuckles (phalangeal joints) during the teething period, IittIe
could be accomplished to bring puppies up on their toes so they would have
reasonably normal feet. When the gradual flattening of front feet is observed
in what appears to be a normal-footed puppy at six weeks of age, often extra
exercise and a change to a rougher-textured footing that the pup can grip with
itrs nails will help stop the spreading and flattening of the foot. Increased
exercise is recommended to strengthen the puppy's feet so that the toes can
function by grasping a rough surface rather than have the young dog carry its
body weight entirely on its rear pads. A trot during this period of developing
pastern and foot is more effective than a gallop or run, which forces the puppy
again onto its rear pads.
Some dog owners use wire, wood slats or punched-out metal as a kennel floor
surface. This type of kennel surface offers ease of cleaning and in some cases'
less chance of infestation from worms in the dogs' droppings. It is most
important if these types of surfaces are used that the footing not sag in places
or be loosely nailed to the frame. This can cause undue strain on the dogs'
feet, pasterns and legs. The síze of the holes in the floor is also a factor
since a dog soon learns to restrict itts stride to adjust to what must be
considered abnormal kennel footing.
The success of wire, punched metal or wood slat flooring depend
When you say the dog was acquired from a breeder, just what level of breeder are we talking about here? Someone who actively shows, etc., or just someone who breeds? Because the only time I've seen feet even remotely resembling these have been in dogs that were raised in raised 'coops' with wire flooring...and that would fit with a pup that comes from a 'commercial' breeder (as in, breeds for and sells to primarily pet shops).
Excerpted from
"FLAT FEET IN PUREBREDS - by Louis Pegram (Director of Professional Services, Ralston- Purina Company)
The complete article can be viewed at:
content.breederoo.com/users/rlbush/files/newsletter5.pdf
One of the most detailed studies was the offspring of three Greyhound bitches
which had excellent compact feet. AII the puppies raised in the first litters
and maintained on smooth, flat concrete footing with ample room for exercise,
developed flat feet. Second matings were made, maintaining the brood matrons
on the same diets. This time, half of the puppies of each litter were raised
on three inches of sand placed over concrete. The remaining puppies, raised on
concrete, were again flat-footed. Those ralsed on the sand and concrete had
normal toes and proved satisfactory for racing and coursing.
It was further found that once the bones in the toes had straightened or flattened
out at the knuckles (phalangeal joints) during the teething period, IittIe
could be accomplished to bring puppies up on their toes so they would have
reasonably normal feet. When the gradual flattening of front feet is observed
in what appears to be a normal-footed puppy at six weeks of age, often extra
exercise and a change to a rougher-textured footing that the pup can grip with
itrs nails will help stop the spreading and flattening of the foot. Increased
exercise is recommended to strengthen the puppy's feet so that the toes can
function by grasping a rough surface rather than have the young dog carry its
body weight entirely on its rear pads. A trot during this period of developing
pastern and foot is more effective than a gallop or run, which forces the puppy
again onto its rear pads.
Some dog owners use wire, wood slats or punched-out metal as a kennel floor
surface. This type of kennel surface offers ease of cleaning and in some cases'
less chance of infestation from worms in the dogs' droppings. It is most
important if these types of surfaces are used that the footing not sag in places
or be loosely nailed to the frame. This can cause undue strain on the dogs'
feet, pasterns and legs. The síze of the holes in the floor is also a factor
since a dog soon learns to restrict itts stride to adjust to what must be
considered abnormal kennel footing.
The success of wire, punched metal or wood slat flooring depend
by Mr.GSD on 22 September 2010 - 02:09
The dog has a combination of "down-at-the-pasterns" and neglect (in the owner never trimming the nails).
Read my Internet articles on the former, and have a vet trim the nails in the latter.
Fred Lanting
Read my Internet articles on the former, and have a vet trim the nails in the latter.
Fred Lanting
by Pharaoh on 22 September 2010 - 02:09
In addition to following the recommendations for consultations, excercise and nail clipping professionally, I would change this pups diet to raw food.
Wish the owner good luck with this pup. I sure hope it gets better it is so sad.
Michele
Wish the owner good luck with this pup. I sure hope it gets better it is so sad.
Michele
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