Lets try again....... - Page 2

"As you both know the answer."

Different people mean different things by "pet quality."  Many workinglines people would say that puppies out of untitled parents are "pet quality."  Showline breeders might say that the puppies who didn't have the best conformation are "pet quality."  Some breeders might say that the most laid-back pups are "pet quality."  

There is no hard and fast definition of the term, which is why I asked what you meant by it.   

"The question was not intended for breeders who sell only pet quality puppies or didn't use the test"


I am not sure what you mean by your comment but it sure is confusing...

The question was not intended for breeders who sell only pet quality puppies or didn't use the test....

Nona, what quality are your puppies?  Has one ever been more than pet quality?  

I  figured Jim (Before I massacre your avatar name, LOL)
 
I just don't get why would anybody breed for pet dogs, every litter even the hard core real dogs produce a pet quality puppy.

not every puppy is going to inherit everything the best out of both parents.
That was confusing... but i figured..
thank you
P

Doesn't  take much to confuse some people...

GSDpack,
Some people breed for the quick buck.  Wouldn't know a good dog if it peed on there leg.  I guess if you say "Hey, I Volhard tested these pups and this one is perfect for you" the price may go up.  Or maybe those puppies buyers won't leave with out buying that pup.

What I dont get is how do you test puppies for different traits when you have no experience with working or showing dogs?  What would the tests tell you?  Would you even know what to do with the results?  Why even bother?   You know you are just going to put an ad in the paper and sell them to the first guy who has $200 cash.    

I know I am naive and still want to believe.. nona, yes sometimes the formulation of certain sentences confuses me and on top of that it makes me shake my head since I dont get certain things, they are against my believes, values and so on.

There were two litters, one person tested them with some similar tests as the one mentioned and then I tested them with mine.

The results came back quiet different.
So far I tested few litters this way and they actually work pretty nicelly..

So far the puppies I tested are pretty close to what I figured they would be! Even as they change, they stay true to the  testing. The rest is up tho the ability of the owner to raise the dog properly.
All I can deliver is raw potential I can not promise that the owner will be able to raise the dog right..
or train it right...


Pack

Nona, you may be interested to read this, if you can.. It's in German.

http://www.wildundhund.de/r30/vc_content/bilder/firma438/Downloads/052_055_welpenkauf.pdf

Many years ago, someone told me about this test, as taught to him by a Belgian working dog breeder. The pups are given certain tests at various points in their development, I believe as early as four days.. But, I am not certain on that. The test results are collected and put together at the end of the evaluation period. The data can be quite useful, especially if it would be a large institution, where many litters may be raised and records would be kept for later reference and use. If you have only one litter, and a good memory and intuition and observation skills, then maybe you do not have to be so formal about it..

The version I heard used a sort of large checkerboard. The puppy would be put in the center square and his reactions observed. How he moved around was carefully watched and a score given, which was recorded for later review. It's been so many years, now, and the man who told me about it said he had promised not to tell anyone about one particular phase of the test. So, I never got that part.. But, I have never had a problem evaluating pups, so I don't think I missed anything..

The main purpose is to get an idea how much instinct the pups have inherited. Since all successful working dog training is based on instinct, then you need to have a lot of instinct to build the best training on. Pups that show a high degree of survival instinct and are not passive are prized. Generally, the further the pup moves, the better. I actually knew of one pup who crawled clear out of the whelping room and out into the yard. Luckily, he was found and retrieved by the owner. This pup became a phenomenal prodigy in training. So, there is something to this, for sure..

But a watchful and observant breeder will usually have some of their own favorite tests, and will be able to intuit which pups are most promising for what tasks. It really helps if you've seen a LOT of dogs over many years and have experience with a bloodline and what it produces. That gives you a lot of information to go on.

One of the main things I always tested for was startle response. I would pop a bag or starter pistol, and also you can snap a white and black plastic bags overhead with a popping sound. The shy pup will leave, immediately. The best ones are secure and stable but interested and watch it.

By the way, the pup that crawled across the owner's yard?.. It was a newborn puppy!