Puppy training - Page 2

I didn't mean to not look for a good trainer to help train this puppy. A book is not a replacement for actual hands-on experience, it is just a nice addition and IMO reading something written by a successful GSD trainer like Strickland makes it even more interesting plus the book is worth the price just for the photos. How does she teach those dogs to do all that stuff anyway? LOL As far as not using treats for puppies, I guess most of us like to reward our dogs with treats, myself included. However, Winnie has a different approach to training that does not include her dogs developing a dependency on food as a reward. It works for her, her record is proof. It's not for every trainer and doesn't coincide with most of our ideas about training a dog, but I won't say it's wrong, it's just a different approach that might or might not work for us. Strickland seems to have a knack for selecting dogs that have the sort of temperament that makes them trainable via her methods. A testiment to selective breeding I suppose.

Wolfgang -- yes yes -- that is most to be agreed with -- same i dea --i just don't use the word promotion--- rather we are both discussing the same .. , in my terms utilizing and channelling the innate abilities the dog has -- same concepts .. just different terminology -- food is good , it helps the dog to focus better than toys as the dogs tend to be bent on getting it's prize --food can better reinforce the behavior i feel becuase with a toy /object most often the dog must leave it's position form reinforncement -- you can also successive approximate behaviors [ that means teach a behavior step by step to achieve the overall behavior ]. i have found too that often the toy acts as a distraction in and of itself and slows down training / learning at the begining -- personally ,if the dog is bent that way .. i like to use food to teach the concept to the dog .. it teaches good focus and i want all my dogs to work calm cool collected and i want them to THINK -- not just go through a routine -- they must THINK !! i want synergy not a dog just crazed for an object .. once they have asscociated and formed the concept utilizing food then i will use/ switch to their favorite toy or better yet the bite -- that is the next step to control for me -- once exercise is understood now they must interact /perform with my direction [ not command ] to get what they want . my outs are taught at aboiut 20 weeks of age -- my dogs cannot out fast enough using this channelling - Wolfgang .. i know from your commentary you well understand this -- so this reply is for the novice as they might get better insight to positive interaction with their dog ..and to know what to seek out from someone to train even if they want a pet GSD.

DO NOT PASS UP THE MONKS OF NEW SKETE OF RAISING YOUR PUPPY PROPERLY. I HAVE THEIR BOOK GIFTED TO ME AND THE VIDEOS ALSO GIFTS. THEY USE NO TREATS AND I HAVE THE TRAINING DEVICE THEY USE, VERY SIMPLE TINY NYLON CHOKE USING QUICK POPS FOR QUICK TURNS, STOPS, ETC. THEY ALSO BREED EXCELLENT SHEPHERDS, RAISE THEM PROPERLY AND SELL MANY FAST! THE BOOK IS ON FAVORITE LINKS PAGE OF MY SITE IF ANYBODY WANTS TO VIEW OR ORDER WWW.DOGSBESTFRIEND.COM

hmm--- Monks of New Skete -- good book .. but not great , by no means !! informative for someone starting off -- Rhino, wolfgang , DKiah and a few others give some good/great advice -- understand : the food is , as one put it to shape behavior --it is not JUST a reward --it is a communcation avenue -- .. !! negativity , that is what i am leading you away from !! don't !! don't use a nylon / metal choke chain on a puppy and furthermore if you read what i have mentioned ..and wolfgang too [ although i don't use the word drive .... instincts , motivations /needs and abilities , i like better] if you teach your dog well shouldn't need a choke chain -- a choke chain is just that , it chokes .. so would you liked to be choked to learn ?? my goodness . and if you are inexperienced with an exuberant dog you just might injure / crush it's trachea !!-- i know they teach a pop [ believe me i understand , it is a positve from of negative reinforecment ].it's perhaps ok after the dog clearly , unequivacably understands , BUT most people lack the timing and feel to use it as a teaching aid iinitially for the dog applying just a little /light just pop !! But let me ask .. why pop if you can teach your dog without popping !! try to use a positve from of positve reinforcement !! later if you must follow through to enforce your requiremnet [ hate that word commad ] then YOU YOURSELF are to follow through . sometimes it's just your voice [ a good trainer can teach you and yopur dog ] -- see about these books -- they teach you to depend on instruments like chokers [harsh !! it's a form of punishment, incorrectly used ] to channel your dog -- your dog must learn to respond to you !!.. then when you become aware .. you will have another problem the dog becomes leash/collar smart -- ya it's controlled when wearing a collar and leash ..and then when it realizes you have no way to channel [control his behaviors ] you are out of luck .. to the next harsh method i suppose to solve this .. so why can't we train if we must with just a buckle collar and teach the dog that it wants to do in reality what you want it to do .. really pay attention to techniques and books now-- best tool -- COMMON SENSE

Alphapup, Strickland does not advocate the use of choke collars either, only buckle collars.

Rhino, at nine weeks you should do nothing except present the world to your puppy. Socialization is the biggest lesson at this age. Redirect undesirable behaviors into something positive and then reward. Don't push any formal training until the dog matures quite a bit. But the first lesson should be their name. The dogs name should be an indicator that you require the dogs attention. So simply reward the dog every time it gives you his attention, especially after calling its name. Beyond that the important thing is that they are exposed to as many things as possible. There is plenty of time for business later. Timing, consistency, patience, and justness are key. Good timing facilitates learning, consistency facilitates understanding, patience allows you to learn and justness means that you must first communicate with your dog before you correct it. People seem to be afraid of collars. There is no problem with using check collars, pinch collars or e collars as long as they are used with good timing, consistency, patience, justness and if you forgive mistakes right after they occur- no grudges. Remember the timing of the release of a correction is almost as important as the application of the correction and you only use as much force as is necessary to get a change in the behavior.

I start 'good manners' training immediately. I literally look to interact with the puppy and help and guide and encourage the pup to respond to me. Teaching him in particularly to remain lying Down. I NEVER use food or toy 'reward' - I don't require any 'third party' in our relationship! I become the reward to my dog. I am never concerned with this 'socialisation' idea - I want the puppy to learn about ME and OUR PACK - NOT someone elses'!!! I act confidently and always consistent. This in itself gives the puppy good confidence in his/herself when they can feel confident in their Owner!Therefore, by the time we go out and about, the puppy has bonded well with me and within his Pack. He/she is responsive towards me and is confident. Which helps in his/her reaction to other dogs and people, because the puppy is relaxed and self assured with his position within our Pack, knows he can trust me, and is neither nervous or over assertive. Hope this is helpful, Vixen