Intact male in the bedroom - Page 4

Your Wife must get involved in the training of this dog!

Yeah, what he said, which is what I said. Have her work the little hoodlum. Put a prong collar on him and have her walk him. If he doesn't comply, pop him. This won't take long and it won't be very hard. But really, JUST DO IT. Because when he's 2 years old and a big boy and she didn't bother to control him when she still could, he'll be on his way to beyond redemption. He'll cause grief in your mariage and may wind up at the pound. Work it now while all of you have the opportunity to teach this little dog some manners.

simple answer...dont have the dog in your bedroom you are sending him the wrong signals!

try ignoring him compleatly for most of the day only use commands ie sit down away etc we talk to our dogs way to much.

only use eye contact whilst you are telling him somthing. and strongly corect him if he steps out of line

work on house manners ...you go through doors first ...he has to wait until after you have eaten before he can eat.

make an area that he is forbidden from.

dont rush out and give him the chop just yet!

good luck

or wear some kinda protection in bed

How do you respond to this thread with a straight face??? lol  But I can see this being funny to the rest of us but not to poor Bucko.  IMO the simple solution is to put em in the crate BUT this isn't gonna fix the underlying reason he's doing this so yes it's important the dog gets the obedience and yes it's VERY important your wife puts him in his place so they have a mutual respect and understanding that he lives in HER house and SHE is the boss calling the shots.

I have 2 males and 1 female, all live in the house.  NONE climb up on my furniture, none sleep in my bed, never have never will.  I love them all dearly, would give a kidney for them BUT they are dogs and should have their "space" as we humans do.  My older male will come lay in the bedroom at night, on the floor, next to the bed or near the door.  Curiosity has made him lift his head or come to check out what's going on but the moment I give him his command to go back to his place and lay down he knows there's nothing going on that he should concern himself with.

It's pretty much like anything else you train a dog to understand the rules of the house.  If something is unacceptable to you like begging for food at the table, jumping on guests, climbing on furniture ect. you must let him know by implementing the obedience. 

If you don't want to crate him at night and prefer to give him run of the house, why not teach him that his place at night is to sleep outside your bedroom door or another location you prefer?  My younger male prefers to sleep on the hardwood floor right by the front door and he knows at night when I start up the stairs it's time for bed and he goes to his spot.  Try working on the obedience and I think you'll see a difference not to mention be much more comfortable in the bedroom.

I'm confused. Bucko, are you also MVF?

My ex's very dominant dog tried to hump him during an inopportune time. It's dominance...not sexual interest,IMO. This dog also would jump on the couch, put his paw on me, and then stare hard at my ex whenever he would get up off the couch. He was simply trying to claim me as his...in retrospect, I should've taken him and run. LOL.

How do you know the dog is after your woman? He could be after your sweet ass. Give it a try.

I just told mey wife today....."I am sure glad our dogs cant tell storys about us"  and now I read a post like this on  a public forum:-)

The best thing to do is get a nice camera mounted to some type of hat  ...teach the dog to wear it.....then sit back and spend the money you make off of your new web site!

WHEN BEETREE STARTS NIBBLING AT MY EAR AND HAND FEEDS ME A SNICKERDOODLE I LOSE ALL TACT.

Putting off OB until 14 months is a old-school, counter-productive, bad idea for a sport dog.  You mentioned a "competition dog" (aka sport) - most people into competing their dogs are ready to roll for their BH (if not before and waiting on minimum age limit) between 15 months and 2 years - and there are  some who are more than ready for schutzhund titles at theses ages.  While I believe in a pup having a "puppyhood," (enjoying growing up) you're also squandering the best time to teach any living thing.  All species pick up the most and learn the fastest during youth – this is proven scientific fact.  I can only guess that someone who is suggesting waiting until 14 months to start OB tends to use heavily compulsion based teaching & proofing methods. (probably someone more focused on PPD and/or police K9 dogs)  I say this as the thinking is typically that once older the dog can "handle" correction better, without simply shutting down in avoidance.  If you really intend to "compete" (I’m assuming SchH since this is GSD board) with this dog then you need to find another trainer.  Heavy compulsion based training techniques leave very obvious tell-tale signs that any judge can see a mile away and will kill you in competition.  Dogs not showing joy in work and instead showing pressure will never, ever score well.  I’m not suggesting that compulsion doesn't have a place in sport training (it does…), but not doing anything with the dog until 14 months then kicking its ass for every little thing after that is just not a training technique that will be successful in today's sport  world.

 

Same goes for protection.  I’ve heard of dogs/lines that mature “slow” that people start late – but I find that to typically be an excuse for an already marginal sport dog.  Ideally, sport dogs need to be balanced between prey and aggression.  Typically, breeders who subscribe/prescribe the “need to grow up” model are producing dogs that either have low prey (the drive most young sport dogs are worked most of the time in) or dogs with temperament issues. (no prey or too much civil nature)  In either case, “waiting for them to grow up” allows them to mature a bit with the thinking that when protection starts they can be worked more (or exclusively) civilly.  This *might* produce a dog that can achieve titles, but not a dog that will succeed in competition – not with the average handler.  Furthermore, I don’t personally feel it is fair for sport dogs to be trained predominately using civil techniques and agitation.  Sport is sport, like boxing or martial arts is sport.  Civil is “real world,” lik

Civil is “real world,” like being in Iraq or on the streets of an inner city gang wasteland.  You might not think so, but the dog does.  To put it under the stress of feeling it is in a life or death fight every time it takes the field for the sake of “sport” is not fair in my opinion.  I don’t see it the same as with working K9s – they are serving a purpose and frankly are worked minimally compared to the average sport dog. (I’m referring to real world bites and bite training, not number of hours “on the clock” or doing other tasks and training)  Whether you agree with that statement or not, the bottom line is that K9s serve mans *needs*, sport dogs serve our *pleasure* – is it fair to put in animal in what it views as a life or death contest ever time you go out of the field, for your fun? (question NOT directed at OP…)

 

I’m going to go out on a limb here and suggest that you’ve possibly bought a pup that whoever sold it to you (breeder, importer) is still associated with you and possibly trying to tip-toe around some issue with pups temperament that they are aware of – either because of what they see in the dog, or what they know of the lines.  The important point is that it is very possible that you do not have a good candidate for sport.  The "wait until 12-14 months" thing is still a common practice with police dogs as they are typically selected for their stronger personalities, temperaments and civil drives.  Due to liability, along with other issues these dogs are trained with very heavy, compulsion based techniques compared to most modern sport techniques.  Typically their personalities can compensate for these techniques (or is that the techniques are being adjusted for their personalities?) and they don’t show as much of the same conflict you would see if a sport dog had been trained the same way.  On the other hand, the attitude that is required to do well, even in a club trial, is rarely seen in a working K9.  They might be just as capable of performing the exercises, but they can’t show the drive, teamwork, or control typically required to do even moderately well in a trial.  I'm not saying that working K9s don't bond, or have teamwork with their handlers, or that they don't enjoy what they do.  There is however, A HUGE difference between what they show and what is expected from a well-performing sport dog.

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