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by Dawulf on 14 January 2013 - 06:01
I need to get one of the two, but am not sure which way would be best. We've only done bitework I think 3 times. The first I borrowed someones harness... the second she was just on her fursaver... and then this last time I had her on a - I think 1" - leather flat collar thinking it might be better than the fursaver. With both the fursaver and the leather collar she stops in the middle and lets out one big COUGH and then gets right back into it, which is making me wonder if a harness might be better. But I've also been told that the actual agitation collar would do the trick too, so I'm a bit torn.
Also need to get a longer leash... would a 6' be OK, or should I get a longer one?
Thanks...
Also need to get a longer leash... would a 6' be OK, or should I get a longer one?
Thanks...

by Keith Grossman on 14 January 2013 - 12:01
I've always used an agitation collar previously but bought a puppy harness for Jagger and get better barking with a harness than I do with any type of collar. I'va also been watching other people work their dogs and the idea of the harness just makes sense to me. Now that my pup has outgrown the smaller, nylon harness, I'll be looking for a real leather one with which to replace it. If you can afford it, it might not be a bad idea to have both available.
A 6' foot lead is fine for a general purpose lead but you'll also need a long line for tracking and some elements of protection training.
A 6' foot lead is fine for a general purpose lead but you'll also need a long line for tracking and some elements of protection training.

by Q Man on 14 January 2013 - 15:01
Agitation Collar vs Harness...What a great question...I think as so much training goes so does the use of equipment...
I personally am not a big fan of the Harness...but...The dog will tell you which one to use...
If a dog/puppy is bothered by an Agitation Collar (something around their neck...coughing...etc.)...then a Harness is a good alternative...I think I have like 3 or 4 Agitation Collars and like 3 Harnesses...A Harness is good to start a puppy or young dog on...So you can teach them to pull and to move forward without anything affecting them and restricting them from around their neck...
The draw back to a Harness is you lose almost all control of your dog...So there needs to be a good coordination between the Helper...Dog...and Handler...You want the dog Out Front and Working...
Once again...to me...I think it's much more difficult to find the right Harness...They all seem to attach differently and adjust differently...Although a good Harness isn't cheap and you might not use it too much it's worth getting a good one...I think a good one would cost around $50 to $60...I think the best Harness I have is a ONE SIZE and made out of leather and was made for me from a Horse Harness Shop...I had it made over 30 years ago...
As far as a leash...When you're working a puppy on agitation...a 6' lead is ok...I prefer a 30' leash...I like the Lunge Lines...A 30' approx 1" wide nylon line...(A Horse Lunge Line)...You can get them in softer nylon called Tublar Nylon...I don't use the same leash for Agitation as I do for Tracking...but you can...Actually for Tracking...most of the time...I prefer a 15' X 1/2" or 3/8" Bio-thane line...
~Bob~
I personally am not a big fan of the Harness...but...The dog will tell you which one to use...
If a dog/puppy is bothered by an Agitation Collar (something around their neck...coughing...etc.)...then a Harness is a good alternative...I think I have like 3 or 4 Agitation Collars and like 3 Harnesses...A Harness is good to start a puppy or young dog on...So you can teach them to pull and to move forward without anything affecting them and restricting them from around their neck...
The draw back to a Harness is you lose almost all control of your dog...So there needs to be a good coordination between the Helper...Dog...and Handler...You want the dog Out Front and Working...
Once again...to me...I think it's much more difficult to find the right Harness...They all seem to attach differently and adjust differently...Although a good Harness isn't cheap and you might not use it too much it's worth getting a good one...I think a good one would cost around $50 to $60...I think the best Harness I have is a ONE SIZE and made out of leather and was made for me from a Horse Harness Shop...I had it made over 30 years ago...
As far as a leash...When you're working a puppy on agitation...a 6' lead is ok...I prefer a 30' leash...I like the Lunge Lines...A 30' approx 1" wide nylon line...(A Horse Lunge Line)...You can get them in softer nylon called Tublar Nylon...I don't use the same leash for Agitation as I do for Tracking...but you can...Actually for Tracking...most of the time...I prefer a 15' X 1/2" or 3/8" Bio-thane line...
~Bob~

by clc29 on 14 January 2013 - 15:01
I used this harness on Cisco........http://www.allk-9.com/padded-all-weather-quick-release-dog-harness-p-835.html
when he was younger.........I like it because it has so many adjustments on it that you can get the fit just right and it's really easy to clean.
I switched to this 1 1/4" agitation collar at 16 months because he's so strong he would almost yank me off my feet. http://www.allk-9.com/125-inch-leather-dog-collar-with-handle-p-864.html
Although, my next collar will not have the handle....it's kind of a pain in the butt.
I use a 15' x 3/8" biothane long line for agitation in the blinds and a 6' biothane leash for other bit work. I like the biothane because it doesn't stretch and is easy to clean. The down side to it is, when it gets wet, it can be slipery so I've tied knots at different points in the length to make it easier to keep the same grip.
Happy Shopping :)
when he was younger.........I like it because it has so many adjustments on it that you can get the fit just right and it's really easy to clean.
I switched to this 1 1/4" agitation collar at 16 months because he's so strong he would almost yank me off my feet. http://www.allk-9.com/125-inch-leather-dog-collar-with-handle-p-864.html
Although, my next collar will not have the handle....it's kind of a pain in the butt.
I use a 15' x 3/8" biothane long line for agitation in the blinds and a 6' biothane leash for other bit work. I like the biothane because it doesn't stretch and is easy to clean. The down side to it is, when it gets wet, it can be slipery so I've tied knots at different points in the length to make it easier to keep the same grip.
Happy Shopping :)

by Jyl on 14 January 2013 - 22:01
I use a harness for protection only on my young 14 month old male that I am working now. I prefer a harness over a collar at this stage in training. Especially since I am working on getting good barking. He is LOADED in prey, but the barking is coming along. I noticed that his barking isnt as good with a collar as I get with a harness. I am still using the harness that I got in early 1996 for my first GSD. I got the harness at Ray Allen. I LOVE the harness and it has definantly served it purpose. It is still in very good shape too.
https://www.rayallen.com/product/latigo_leather_padded_tracking_harness/Harnesses
My female who is MUCH afarther along that my young male I am mostly using a fursaver for all 3 phase in IPO. I do not have much use for a harness in protection with her unless I decide to do some grip work. Which is not very often.
I use a fursaver for tracking as well as obedience.
For tracking and protection I use a 15 foot line. For obedience I use a 4 foot leash or a tab depending on which dog I am working.
https://www.rayallen.com/product/latigo_leather_padded_tracking_harness/Harnesses
My female who is MUCH afarther along that my young male I am mostly using a fursaver for all 3 phase in IPO. I do not have much use for a harness in protection with her unless I decide to do some grip work. Which is not very often.
I use a fursaver for tracking as well as obedience.
For tracking and protection I use a 15 foot line. For obedience I use a 4 foot leash or a tab depending on which dog I am working.

by Dawulf on 15 January 2013 - 06:01
Thanks for your advice and suggestions everyone. I'm curious - do you think there is a difference between using a fursaver/thinner collar and the actual agitation collar as far as the choking goes then? We had a dog before who had a choker on most of his life, and he had a windpipe issue I think, because every now and then he would stop and make this strange cough/wheeze thing... and while I think that was due to being on the live ring all the time, Qira is always on a random dead ring... I'm just afraid she will damage something in there if she pulls to hard during bitework. Plus I do want to get a pup or young dog in the [far] future to work towards titles and such, so maybe the harness would be the best route to go. I don't ever expect to title Qira after all... we're in this to have fun, and if we ever do get a title.... cool.
But it's not a goal.
I may have to drive out to some tack stores tomorrow and see what I can find there... thanks again everyone!

I may have to drive out to some tack stores tomorrow and see what I can find there... thanks again everyone!

by OGBS on 15 January 2013 - 07:01
Agree with Q-Man all the way.
I do not like a dog's neck thrashing around when it is learning grip training.
This happens too much with a harness on and can create bad biting and grip habits with the dog.
I certainly wouldn't be using a fur-saver with a dog doing bite work with a leash attached to it if the dog is in the learning stages and you are doing any type of drive building.
What I have found works the best for me is to buy a 1-1/2 to 2 inch wide bite collar, but, not a double thickness collar. I find that that the single thickness collars work better because they have some give to them.
The other thing to be aware of is that a dog can have a problem with its espohagus (genetic or injury) that will require you to use a harness.
If the dog makes the same coughing sound (this usually is a hacking sound) with a bite collar on, your dog likely has an issue and I would go to the harness for sure.
Best of luck to you!
I do not like a dog's neck thrashing around when it is learning grip training.
This happens too much with a harness on and can create bad biting and grip habits with the dog.
I certainly wouldn't be using a fur-saver with a dog doing bite work with a leash attached to it if the dog is in the learning stages and you are doing any type of drive building.
What I have found works the best for me is to buy a 1-1/2 to 2 inch wide bite collar, but, not a double thickness collar. I find that that the single thickness collars work better because they have some give to them.
The other thing to be aware of is that a dog can have a problem with its espohagus (genetic or injury) that will require you to use a harness.
If the dog makes the same coughing sound (this usually is a hacking sound) with a bite collar on, your dog likely has an issue and I would go to the harness for sure.
Best of luck to you!
by Bob McKown on 21 February 2013 - 13:02
I always use a harness with puppies young dogs and adults (at times). The less restriction on there necks at a early age helpes them learn to come to the bite. It gives them a freeier head to build and create a excellent strike on the target. I,ve seen the diference in others puppies and young dogs who only use the collar. I feel it,s easier to hancle the young dogs with a harness on and less stresssfull to there neck you can always double line also to the harness and the collar if you need to. A good harness isn,t a big investment. I use it on my adult dogs at times to help free them up and to improve natural regripping.
by Jeffs on 22 February 2013 - 03:02
I would think harnesses with pups. Collars when they are getting their adult teeth can be a bit of a drag. Plus the harness, I think, encourages them to move forward.
by joanro on 22 February 2013 - 17:02
The coughing when pulling into a collar can be caused by a collapsed windpipe. Working in a fur saver can definately cause damage to the wind pipe.
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