Is there a "Training Sequence" you follow? - Page 1

Hello All,

We will be meeting our 8 wk old Brix soon and I am beginning to put together a sort of "Training Plan" for him. I'll admit, I am taking this opportunity to train the right way as I have never really structured our dogs' training before. It's always been sort of a fly by the seat of my pants approach. I know this lazy approach won't work for our new addition. He wouldn't have it....

My question goes out to you experienced trainers. Do you follow a general sequence of training that you feel is most appropriate? Is it a good idea to do general OB and house manners before introducing any other types of "sport" training? Can aspects of the training overlap?

I don't want to tax or confuse him and hinder his progress, but I also don't want to under-stimulate and bore him. I understand a large amount of this will be solely dependent on the dog but I am looking for general guidelines and a sound approach.

Thank you all,

Cory

Cory, Google NePoPo, its the method I use to train my dogs because it works. It would take pages and pages to explain in detail everything I do, but, I start all puppies with simple "watch me" exercises that evolve to watching other things over time, on command, like a toy, a person, etc. I start OB the day I get the puppy, all for food at first, after teething is done, I switch to a toy, but, by than, they know all basic commands. I am BIG on impulse control, especially on a breed with very high drives and I am even bigger on being a benevolent dictator so that the puppy learns where all good things come from, why, when and how. Again, Google that method and good luck to you and your puppy.

As long as you keep the training age-appropriate, there is absolutely no reason different aspects of training can't overlap.  In fact, I like to imprint all 3 phases of sport training as early as possible.

Hired,

Thank you for the reply. I will do that now. I appreciate the suggestion!

Keith,

Thank you for sharing your process. I will keep this in the back of my mind when working with him.

CB, you are able to start all 3 phases of IPO during the same time, but in the end there are no rules, always depends on the character of your dog.

A lot of prey drive = you are able to start bitework almost immediately
No prey drive, but signs of defense = my kind of dog, but I wait until they are stabilized enough ( 6 - 8 months )
A lot of food drive = start tracking as soon as possible
Almost no food drive ( why did you buy this dog? ) = you need to wait, until the dog is old enough to understand what you want ( obedience )
Willing to please ( in combination with food drive perfect for "training" ) = start to get the focus of your dog immediately
Not interested = strenghten the bond

I´m no perfectionist, that said I´m not interested in points, but in a strong dog. I don´t start "real" obedience until the age of 10 months +/-.
In the meantime my dogs learn that I´m the god of their universe, and nothing negative will happen as long as they are at my side

The more self-confident, the better.
I´m very fussy about this, there is no playing with stronger dogs, nobody besides me is allowed to correct my dogs, later on in bitework the corrections and commands always from me, never from the helper or any training director...

The result always were strong, self-confident dogs, believing in me in every situation.

Susie,

Thank you for providing your views. You've given some awesome tips based on behavior types that I've never realized.

Everyone has had some seriously great input and I'll take it all in. I like how opened arms you have all been. I have read some pretty strong opinions around here about the breed and ultimately who is trying to own them. It's important for me to be a good owner and the last thing I want to do is let our new addition down.

Lay off of bite work during teething .. in most cases if the puppy shows a willingness to bite and tug early it is better to wait on any bite work that you need to teach until after teething.  Focus, obedience and tracking based on food early before teething and during teething and then after teething switch to tugs and sleeve work if that is what you want your dog to do (ie bite work).  If you do bite work during teething the small amount you gain from starting earlier may be wiped out by injuring the puppies teeth and the food rewards may lose value if the puppy really gets too excited about bite work.  Focus and obedience is the foundation of everything that comes later. 

Bubba,

To clarify, do you mean after the 8-month milestone where he should have all 42 permanents?

Most of my puppies start teething at 3 1/2 to 4 months and have most of their baby teeth shed by 5 - 5 1/2 months latest.  The gums, canines and the front teeth used in tugging can become painful while cutting and shedding baby teeth.  I usually think that by 6 months they have most of their permanent teeth in their mouth solid enough for tug work and earlier for ball work.  I think the jaws and muscles in the head need to strengthen as well to give them a good grip and stamina to do bite work.  I would just keep an eye on the puppy's teeth and be careful not to do harm for very little in time gained.  I do GSD so the mals are likely different.  Michael Ellis does Mals for Mondio Ring and he discusses this in some of his videos about puppy training and bite work.  I will see if I can find the video clip.

https://leerburg.com/flix/player.php/269/Lindsey_Sommer_Working_Engagement_Training_with_Her_Puppy
https://leerburg.com/flix/player.php/1137/Puppy_Bite_Development_with_Michael_Ellis_amp;_Favor

https://leerburg.com/flix/player.php/741/The_Foundation_of_Puppy_Bite_Work_%288_Weeks_up_to_16_Months%29_with_Michael_Ellis

Great info thank you.