Puppy and training, begginers mistake. - Page 6

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Deejays_Owner

by Deejays_Owner on 17 September 2008 - 20:09

animules, Sorry you misread my post.

"knowing that Hundreds of people will be watching."

She has no problem with them being seen.

 


snajper69

by snajper69 on 17 September 2008 - 20:09

Oki for those of you that are more experience with reading a puppy, I would like your opinion, and what I can expect out of the puppy as well as what is the best way to deal with the issue.

 

My female she is few weeks old now (11):

I think she is an awesome pup, acts independent, actually very independent, even though she fallows everywhere we go, she likes to keep her distance, especially when we in the room, she usually will play in a distance. (What you take on that). From my experience it's a good thing especially for people that work regular day jobs, like me, it usually will be no issue leaving her at home for extended period of time. Actually as a try i let her sleep  out of her create (by my bed) last night, whole night, no accidents, no issues, when she had enough of sleep around 3 a.m. she just took her favorite toy and chew on it a bit.

When I look straight in the eyes, sometimes not always she gets very dominant, barks and try to bite me lol hahaha :) fire cracker I am telling you. When I try to redirect her attention towards toy or whatever, it works only for a while she takes the toy and goes back at me lol :) I actually can't stop laughing (I know not a good idea), with my other female she dose the same thing, if the female try to restrain her in any way she just gets pissed off and barks and bites lol. (so let me guess alpha bitch?) lol

Now what you make of all this, and what I should be careful with, and what to do about the biting and barking? Since she is a pup let it go, and just put her out when she dose that? Any other recommendations? Thanks all.

 

 


snajper69

by snajper69 on 17 September 2008 - 20:09

Oh yeah when playing with other puppies, and her littermate (Sunday training sessions) she gets his littermate down and always stands over him not letting him get up, don’t bites till he try to get out, or counterattack her, lol for me that dominance, dominance, dominance, maybe little more than I would like to see. LOL. The breeder told me she will be dominant and I need to get her job or she maybe very hectic lol. Thing when playing with my other female (2year old) wants to be the dominant one, my older female is soft lets her, very protective over her, acts like a big mama.

 

Thanks all. And now You can’t have her. Lol

 


animules

by animules on 17 September 2008 - 20:09

Deejays owner, you are right, I did misread that.  My apologies.

 

snaiper69, must be hard on the roof of your car!  LOL 


snajper69

by snajper69 on 17 September 2008 - 20:09

Hard? lol I have dends, every time I fix one I get another one is like getting in fender bender every time lol, currently is my door lol she shoot out like a rocket, put a big dent in my passanger door, talking about creazy b*** lol but thats only happens when she dose not see me like for few days she goes nots once she sees my car lol. Females.


by Teri on 18 September 2008 - 12:09

Thanks Animules.  I'll rearrange the dog room tonight.  That is no small task but worth extinguishing the fire in Audi when the dogs jump above her.  Do you worry about air flow & excess heat in the kennels using the solid mats?  I live in Florida and worry about heat issues.  I was thinking about a large shade cloth stretched and zip tied on the side of the Kennels.  I guess I'll just have to try them to see how they work.  They won't totally block visibility and might not work.

Thanks again.

Teri       


Shelley Strohl

by Shelley Strohl on 18 September 2008 - 12:09

The Mohneweise page is excellent. As mentioned above, its only free heeling, no other obedience. I have never been able to get that kind of focus with a lot of dogs no matter how hard I tired. Obedience is my worst subject of the 3. LOL

SS


Deejays_Owner

by Deejays_Owner on 18 September 2008 - 13:09

Thanks Shelley.

My Daughters pup is only Driven for the bite, very sharp on the civil side.
We were having a problem with her throwing the tug away and go after my daughter, barking jumping biting.
This one loves to fight, we have her now staying on the tug, thank god.


I got a lot of PM's thanking me for posting the Mohneweise link. ......
We only took from it did not follow it to a "T", along with the typical "watch" command.
Added the "touch" command (to the hand follow) it can be used for a lot of things "heeling" "send outs" etc.
What you do is have the dog or puppy in front of you, hold out your left hand with the palm out.
Don't say anything, if they touch it, treat with right hand and praise, they pick it up very fast.
After a few days give the command "touch" with your hand out.
While my Daughter was not doing it in the Video, only using the "watch" (FORGOT they just started adding turns).
She does ask for it again in the turns this helps drive the pup around the corner.
 

 


by ALPHAPUP on 18 September 2008 - 14:09

Goodness .. I wish most people .. especially the ones that give advice .. really get out of the  ' Old Ways'.    In other posts .. I streseed the Foundation to everything is the RELATIONSHIP with your pup. THE BIGGEST MISTAKE ---- NOT CULTIVATING THE RELATIONSHIP . this has inumerable dimensions .  correct ..not  letting your pup over tire ...meaning ..letting the dog realise  enough is enough and there are limits in life,  teaching the dog that the best place in the entire world is next or in front of you . Many factors contribute to buildind and amke up a RELATIONSHIP. Now these things are not 'FORMAL 'teachings .. but more so the way you construct you lives together. WHY did i say the best place  :because THAT IS THE FIRST step later in the FORMAL RECALL , THE RETEIEVE , THE HEEL ETC. It is the bridge between us two . If you do not have secutiry , a sense of well being, trust , worthiness , confidence , comminucation  etc. when your dog is at your feet .. then how can you have this instilled in your dog  later as an adult when he is futher away ? The pup is going to learn every second of the day ... make it count and to the advantage of you both . YOU are responsible that the pup learns what you feel it needs to learn . Putting the pup away .. you loose preciuos time to build the relationship and make sure the pup is learning what it needs to.Not meaning obedience but all dogs should have in their learning process the right socialization, manners  , the correct attitude about life, the begining of self control [ I do not mean hard core control ], calmness in mind and spirit for a few .... . They must learn that they can trust and count on you at anytime anyplace and in any context of life. Also  YOU must learn and understand your dog . How can you do that if you put it away . let the puppy be a puppy but you  can understand what it thinks , how it thinks feels , how it learns , how it comminicates to you verbally / nonverbally ,  and responds to / about aspects of life ... [ e.g this will later help you for  example READ your dog on a track ] . THIS tells you later HOW to train your dog . HOW can you train it For Sch 1 or search and rescue  , or scent detection  !    if you do not understand your dog and if it does not learn that it is ok to take direction from you ? HOW can you train and have the dog successful ?  This is one thing  and only one thing  that I do with my pups .. this is not formal but  rather a means of connecting with my pup . this is also not an 'attention exercise .. it is a way to communicating to the dog to always be attentive to me and have synergy with me ., like two partners learning how to dance. I take my dog to the most distracting places .. i generalize right from the begining to different places and contexts. I want the pup to be distracted as it can possibly be .I  keep quiet ! i let the pup be a pup.but when he looks into my eyes at that exact second I give the pup something better that it needs .. for some pups it is playing , others it is food , others a bite,  . At first it  is a quick glance  from the pup into my eyes .. then lilttle by little i increase the time the pup must look at me. then i do the same exercise not from a static position but even to when i am moving. this is not attention nor heeling . i am teaching the pup to be always ATTENTIVE TO ME.. to want to seek my  direction .. even for something it wants to do .. even just to eat or play .. this is how later I can control the dog and help it control itself  . WHERE THE EYES GO .. SO DO THE THOUGHTS , FEELINGS and ACTIONS OF THE DOG ! I am building the relationship with my dog .. teaching it  . But i am careful as to not teach the dog to be overly depenent .. dependency . That is only but one  thing we


Deejays_Owner

by Deejays_Owner on 18 September 2008 - 15:09

(Imprinting) Mold the motion we desire, reward, name it repeat.

"rapid learning that occurs during a brief receptive period,
typically soon after birth or hatching, and establishes a long-lasting
behavioral response to a specific individual or object."


ALPHAPUP

I love your thinking, we have talk about in the past a few times.
The ONLY difference I can see is molding the motion & naming it.
But I QUESTION myself why not use the time from 8 -> 20 wks, they are little sponges.

Still think it's a step in the right direction then, let them be wild (crate).
Then when older put on a prong and enforce the motion.

I find myself always thinking about this quote.
"Dildei questions whether we as trainers have the right to inflict pain on our animals for the sake of a competitive sport without having explored every motivational method thoroughly and completely."


But like I have been told "there are many paths to the top of the mountain...".
I guess in the end we need to find the path that's best for our pup, and that we feel comfortable with.
 

 






 


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