Can you give your own dog a arm sleeve bite Without a helper or decoy? - Page 2

I concur with Jim.....I work all my dogs as puppies..going from ball, rag, tug, sleeve....with no problem. They all have excellent grips....but they had that from the womb. I started my males hold and bark. I have done courage test and escape bites...all in prey....if you don't have the experience...leave it to someone that does.

When I was in ring, I did almost all of the decoy work on my own dog, on the suit and on the sleeve to set the grips. No big issue since ring is a prey sport and the completion of each exercise with max points is the goal. However, in Schutzhund, and especially with my current club, this practice is a no no. I do helper work for other members but never my own dog. I want CLEAR association with the sleeve and adversary.......not prey playing. It is not a tug toy. The last thing I want is a loud prey bark in the hold and bark. If a helper, during the bark and hold drops the sleeve or toss the sleeve to the side, what would happen? If you have a dog genetically more prey oriented, well, you taught him that sleeve is a great play object. The true intent, I believe is for the dog to STILL do the hold and bark WITHOUT the sleeve. Helper droops the sleeve.....well, too bad for the helper. That is what the stick is for. Sometimes you don't have a choice. However, if you train in a club setting, you have better options. To be frank, this is a huge change in my training logic from just two years ago.

yep, but if he is for real you will have handler aggression. i like it, and don't mind it.  but i am wierd.  don't give your dog bites on you after 5 months, tug game stuff. after that give it to the helper if you can find one worth a poop.

 To the OP.....whatever Jim said...lol


dominant dogs are fine, handler agression sucks ass.
Fluffy is weird but he bites...only the wrong person! LOL

A joke my father used to make when the dogs in the company turned on the handlers for whatever reason, I saw handler get attacked by his dog in a very tight quarters of a train wagon, not a pretty view and I was pretty appreciative that my dog worked for me, not against me.. but to each his own (or something like that)

 

The true intent, I believe is for the dog to STILL do the hold and bark WITHOUT the sleeve......which has nothing to do with me doing grip work on my own dog...as witnessed by all the prey monsters that have never been worked by there owner/handler. I have a yr old that will bark all day...sleeve or no sleeve...


 ............

I bought a trained personal protection dog from a police traing facility and was told not to ever. They said to the dog its serious and the dog should never think its OK to bite or show aggressive behavior to the handler or owner. They said Argo should go back every year or two for bite work refresher training. I let others who can do, it's a better outcome that way. It cost, but really not that much to get what you want. And the dog not to become confused.

LSU mom

sleeve is a tool, the dog takes it because it is offered to him. Personaly I can play with my dog with a sleeve, his drives are very different then when we do PPD senarios.
In your case I would not do it, not because the dog will get confused but I think you could do something you could regret later. Sleeve to my dog is almost like a tug, well suit, hidden, muzzle work and so on......that is a totally different story! It is more on a body than a sleeve. I can do bark and hold with my dog and the body language is way different from the b&h he does on somebody else.

i nevered did but its funny because i was doing tug work with my pup and a friend came up and took the handle from me and my dog just flipped and started to growl and pull 10x harder lmao. and no he was not scared of the friend he just wired lol got to love my dog

Judron55, Can you explain this a little more? I've never tried it but how do you transition him learning to do a hold & bark on you to doing it on someone else? Thanks

" I started my males hold and bark."

Remoine1,
it is very easy to teach the dog to bark for an object, sleeve, toy, food then to transition to the decoy.  I teach the call out of the blind to the heel position with out a decoy also, along with the "out."  My dog learns to out long before they ever see it on the field just as the recall from the blind.  When you break exercises down into their fundamental components things go a lot easier.

Jim