resources for decoys, where can i go with this?? - Page 2

The first rule for helper work is like the hypocratic oath for doctors. Do no harm to the dog. Where you are located as you know makes it difficult to be mentored by a good helper. Your dog looks good. I would be concerned with what he is doing with the sleeve and all the shaking. When your dog moves into the dog he is more sideways which is less intimidating. Have him face the dog standing tall, chest out menacing. Have him walk slower into the dog, fewer fast movements. Side to side initiates prey. If he is doing this correctly you will hear your dogs bark change. If your dog begins to back up its too much pressure and the decoy should run away. This takes the pressure off the dog and makes him think he won with his voice. As someone else said you are a post. I would sink a post into the ground and attach the dog to that. This way you do not have to work about moving. The decoy may gain confidence also by knowing you will not slip and let go of the dog. The decoy has to learn that his actions causes an action in the dog. I just found this on youtube. It is more trial helper work but shows good positioning, good drive footwork.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kllnuOx2Lsc

The Tiekerhook website has interesting information on dog aggression

Read and absorb as much information you can get on the topic. Always check for seminars in your area. I have driven up to four hours for a one day seminar. Quality training is tough to find so when it comes close you have to take advantage. Good Luck and stay safe.
 

kyle  "dog moves into the dog"? i gotcha tho.

the sideways was specifically instructed to work the dog in prey/prey moves - that dog flips out and loses his head with a challenge. i only want this dog worked in prey.

the shaking is a problem, any advice, the dog pounds the sleeve into oblivion and guards it like he is guarding his little toosh in a prison cell.

Allow the dog to keep the sleeve after it won it. A few minutes later, it will get bored with it and you can have it back. You need to leave the dog be while it sits there with the sleeve, no talking.
If it wont let you have it aftet 10 minutes, you have a serious problem and you need a "come to Jesus" talk with your dog.
Another option is to work the dog civil and have it focus on the helper while you step back with it a few feet and allow the helper to pick up the sleeve.
Another is to train the release command and finally, you can swap the dead sleeve on the helpers arm for a live tag in yours that you use to entice the dog with.

haha have been doing the two sleeve thing, funny as hell the dog tried to take a full bite on the second sleeve with the first sleeve still in his mouth, was a highly laughable moment.

the sleeve smashing is very vocal screaming and just pounding and shaking, quiet violent to witness. a thrashing hard sleeve can take yr (handler) shins out easy, i have the bruises.

do the civil approach on the dog with the downed sleeve to get dog off it, works pretty well, dog comes off real pissed tho, soon as dog spits it i drag dog away enough for decoy to get it back.

thanks for tips guys, appreciatte it.

Maybe time to move things back to gain control of the dog. Let him know whose world it is. Do obedience around the decoy. Have the decoy stand still and just have your dog do a sit next to you. When the dog is quiet and calm send him for a bite. Repeat a few times. Teach the out with prey objects such as balls and tugs. Ous means Ous. You should not have to yell this command. Same tone as if saying sit.

i think yr right, maybe this clip will put some perspective on what the dog is and how he kinda got a bit out of hand, 15 months second agitation session - sure nobody is gonna watch a 13 min vid but..

All of the above tips are good, especially the one about handler standing planted until decoy instructs you to move. But the key to improving decoy work, is working dogs many and often, after the decoy has been exposed to proper foundation learning through either mentor, or seminars, or very minimum videos or books. Good decoys READ dogs to work them.....they don't have in mind what THEY are going to do UNTIL the dog shows you what it is or where it is.

Well personally i agree with what everyone says, i would also propose that none of the posters have ever been up shits creek without a paddle re availability and access to resources. i am in envy of your position.

This video shows some very impressive control with a lot of stimuli and distraction.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25VvlZOdg5I

On a side note. As someone said this sport and training can get expensive quickly. I personally travel with my dogs in crates or a trailer for safety. If I were in a car accident the dog is a projectile. If I'm injured, my dog may not let EMS do their job. Which means law enforcement may have to put my dog down to help whoever is injured in the car.

 

I assume your dog was on the way to training to see what his focus was when he saw the decoy come down hill..in the car not crated..I never take a dog uncrated anywhere,,THE police cannot get to you if you have a dog..Alll dogs will become very protective especially if you are hurt or they are also and wrecks happen 2 blocks from home...Crate dog unless you are going to do a car approach...which is ok..
One thing I did see and liked was your dog did not go nuts when he saw the decoy until he got closer and he then waited till he saw him really coming toward the car.. That is a plus...

Keep up focus and watch some of the videos our good trainers like Kyle etc put up

YR