Tracking.... - Page 2

I think you need to make the dog hungry and yes, back up quite a ways. Short tracks, even two or three laid 15 feet apart and no longer than 30- paces, with regular food, and a truly hungry dog may be helpful.

Thanks Hodie...I'm returning to the beginning....I believe I tried advancing when I was ready as oppose to the dog!

Phyliss...yes, I do remember and I do take what you say about letting the dog track the way that is most comfortable to him at face value.  Thanks all!

Judron, believe me, I learned the hard way. With my female, now just passed on, I had a dog who tracked fast. I tried and tried and tried to slow her down. You know what happened? She lost her desire to track because I was ruining it for her by always trying to slow her down. Once I had almost ruined her desire, fortunately I realized before it was too late that I was making a mistake. So I had to back up and make it motivational again for her. We succeeded. One of the reasons I was so worried about the speed is that I was disabled even then and it was difficult for me to keep up with her without making subtle and unwanted corrections on the leash. Another reason I wanted to slow her down was that I knew that we would loose points. I decided to just let her be herself and she went onto SchH3 and did a fine track for that title under a very tough judge and a track laid by Bernhard Flinks himself. So Phyllis' comment is well taken.

As for the handler trying to advance too quickly, isn't it often a problem in all phases of SchH? I have been guilty of the same and everyone I have ever taught also wants to move along too quickly. We must check ourselves!!! LOL

The fact that you recognize a problem says volumes and I know you will be successful in the end. 

Best wishes.

What you use for reward is all about the dog. Don't listen to those who say you should use a ball/tug or use a food, it's about what works for your dog.

Now my dog, is both food/tug driven, so I have it easy. However if I used a tug at the end he would charge down the track, no dout, so I use food, spread out over the track (kibble), keeps him slowed down. He will eat anything so kibble works well, small bits.

Those that have stated to start over are correct. Short tracks/session with success for the dog. I very happy owner after the dog finishes the track, like the best thing that ever happened, excitement!!!.

Tracking for a beginer without supervision is tough, been there done that. Go to seminars with your dog if possible. Someone experienced in tracking can read the dog and help you out alot.

Don't leave the balls out on the ground, burying the ball is important because if the dog can see the ball down the track he will start rushing.  The other reason you bury the balls is because the dog uses his nose to find them, which reinforces the behaviour you are looking for.  Also don't reward from your hand, (ball or bait),  the reward must come from the track.  Use a soft bait the dog can basically suck up so the dog doesn't have to start chewing or choke on it.    I agree with going back to short straight tracks, with a food jack pot at the end.  As far as a dog who pulls you down the track, this is usually actually a good thing, as long as the dog is not hectic, it's the dog working in drive,  just hold him steady, get him used to working at your pace.  With a strong dog, use plow lines.

By the way...this is the dog tracking at 8 months...

http://www.working-dog.eu/dogs-details/134459/Ubarack-von-Gruenheide

I haven't seen the video yet, but wow that's a nicely bred dog!  I highly doubt drives will ever be an issue or problem with this guy, this dog is bred to work hard.   Congrats on such a well bred working dog. GREAT name too!

Thanks Sue.....yeah, his pedigree is what made me get him as a pup! I've gone very slow with him. He has such a wonderful temperament. Excellent grips and obedience will be strong. I must now get my handling skills together for the sake of the dog!