WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR - Page 2

Pedigree Database

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by Super Para on 13 April 2011 - 15:04

Hi Steve, Very good subject with lots of very good responses. Just to throw a little bit more into the pot has anyone had the same problems as I have had when choosing a puppy I have always taken into consideration most of the the above, but up to now have never got that 100% solid nerved Dog. But when I have taken on a young adult that has gone through the early stages I have been ok. I think that the family have tended to spoil them,treating them and spoiling them when my back is turned or at work!!

I have to say the best working K9`S I have had seem to have been the ones that have been brought up and had to fend for themselves EG if I was to tether one of my pet dogs brought up from 8weeks of age they would get themselves in all sorts of bother but when taken on as adults (12 months up) they can deal with it no problem.

Good topic lets hear some more.

Brandi

by Brandi on 13 April 2011 - 16:04

A good example is when I went to a pet expo with a Breeder and two 11 week old pups.  These two pups walked on leash, through hundreds of people (young and old, some handicap, some loud) and these two pups had the most confidence in the world.  They were happy and proud, nothing phasing them.
These are what I would look for in a pup. As judron55 said.
Everyone has offered great "what to look for". 
Brandi


by desert dog on 13 April 2011 - 17:04

Good topic Steve,
Tenacity at the feed pan. Willing to fight for a teat or meal.
Hank

by brynjulf on 13 April 2011 - 17:04

I pick the puppy that is making the breeder cry :)  You know the one that beats up all it's brothers and sisters, hangs off the breeders pants.  Climbs out of the whelping box at 3 weeks of age. if I hear over and over "what am I going to do with this puppy,  how do I find a home for this MONSTER.  That's the one for me, these pups are born with an un describable naughtyness.  They are confident from day one, you look at them and the little wheels are turning.  You know them if you see them.


steve1

by steve1 on 13 April 2011 - 17:04

Yes, I wish i could see the Pups at various stages of growth from 3 weeks onwards that will tell you a lot , My Pup i am interested in i will drive to Germany before they are weaned off to see them a little younger, Worth a days travel to do that
Good repsonses from all, Keep them coming it is interesting to here what people have to say
Steve1

by kacey on 13 April 2011 - 17:04

Along with good nerve strength, I would want the one that exhibits the most competition,and "naughtiness". Also, the one that can engage in a little play (and covets the toy in a cath-me-if-you-can type of game) tells me they potentially have traits I'm looking for.Granted, at 8 weeks, this behaviour might be a bit difficult to access, but as it grows, that's what I'd hope to see in the progression.

TingiesandTails

by TingiesandTails on 13 April 2011 - 21:04

Personally, I would only pick a West German WL puppy, just because of positive experience I have had and dogs I have seen with other club members.
I look for fearless puppy (not bothered by noise or obstacles) with lots of playdrive. I wouldn't pick the most outgoing puppy  and as my dog lives inside - I wouldn't pick the messiest one either. I'd like to pick one that observes as I look around, has his/her nose on the ground when I drop some treats and a puppy that loves pulling on anything offered to play.

Mystere

by Mystere on 13 April 2011 - 22:04

  I am looking at temperament first, that encompasses strong nerves, out-going nature, curiosity, self-assurance, high  prey drive.  I also want to see a retrieving fool as a 6-8 week old puppy.  Essentially, I keep the  Clarence Pfaffenberger  studies that were ultimately used for guide dogs for decades and has been reproduced repeatedly over the decades.  I highly recommend that anyone check out his book,  New Knowledge  of Dog Behavior.   One of the things they learned back in the 40's was that trainability is tied to retrieving, for example. 

I also want to see health clearances for the parents, not only hips and elbows, but DM.  

VKGSDs

by VKGSDs on 13 April 2011 - 22:04

Assuming we are picking the exact pup and have already done the work selecting the litter and breeder.... I want the pup that is bomb proof.  He doesn't have to be overly hyper, or really pushy, or the biggest, or show the most "drive".  I just want the puppy that appears relaxed and in control in every situation, whether he is with his littermates or taken away and exposed to "strange" things.  I don't want a dog that is overly social, or overly suspicious, just a dog that sees/hears/smells new things and says "oh well, that is nothing" and on we go.

As far as drives go at 7-8 weeks my main concern would be food/hunt drive.  I don't really need to see a puppy chasing a "gripping" on rags and tugs.  If I've done the groundwork selecting a good breeding with the right pedigree, then it's not really important to me that a puppy can get all worked up in prey drive doing "bitework" at 7 weeks old.  I already have a good idea of how the dog will balance out prey vs. defense, how the dog will work in protection when he is mature enough to actually show the aggression I'm looking for.  I look more closely at how the dog will react to food and what his behaviors and body language look like when he is searching for food on the ground.

by crhuerta on 13 April 2011 - 23:04

I want the puppy that exhibits strong *determination*.
The one that *thinks, problem solves*.....the one who wants everything, and isn't afraid to figure out a way to posses it....be it over, under, around, up & down or through an obstacle.





 


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