Raising Working Puppy (or Any Puppy Really) - Page 2

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alboe2009

by alboe2009 on 10 February 2011 - 05:02

Also, maybe language barrier contributes to different definitions, not sure. Don't worry, if something is not understood just talk about it and we'll figure it out.

Not to put you on the spot or to make you feel bad tell me what "socialization" means to you. The world can't be boring. Every new experience, sound, sight, is making that pup become what it will be. You are everything to him, his universe. but the world is at his disposal to learn, to figure out, to benefit him and his destination.

Socialization, (and other threads on this) is where you give him access to experiences in all aspects of life. That way he has that experience in his memory banks and won't react negatively when that experience arises in his future.

Don Corleone

by Don Corleone on 10 February 2011 - 05:02

Alboe, I disagree. The op is asking about a sport pup, not a pup intended for service work. To me, that is a big difference. Let it be a pup, socialize and build drive.

by dmdmitriev on 10 February 2011 - 05:02

Don,
I will look up build food drive so you do not have to waste time explaining.

alboe2009

by alboe2009 on 10 February 2011 - 05:02

Don,

What are you disagreeing to/with? 

Don Corleone

by Don Corleone on 10 February 2011 - 13:02

Sorry, I had to get some sleep. I would only feed the pup out of hand right now and make it a fun game. Get the pup to drive/push into your body/hand for the food. I wouldn't worry too much about getting the pup to sit, etc until it is pushing into you for the food. Dog pushes into you while you're moving back, etc. Alboe, I disagree with what you wrote a few posts back. You make it sound like you work on manners quite a bit. Let it be a pup. It's 10 weeks.

Mindhunt

by Mindhunt on 10 February 2011 - 14:02

I was told to never let the pup jump over or off anything higher than the pup's chest height until older.  Also, it's never too young to learn manners.  You can teach this in a play-training style (as my behaviorist friend calls it).  Make anything you do with the pup fun.  Start labeling what the pup does on it's own (sitting, laying down, coming to you, dropping something from pup's mouth, etc), for instance, calmly say sit (or whatever you are going to use) the second before your pup's butt hits the ground and give praise (not too much or too excited since this can excite your pup and distract the pup from the "lesson").  Always praise your pup for coming to you, you should be the best, most fun place to be.  Protect your pup from bad experiences since these can stick with a dog for a LONG time.  You need to supervise your older dog with the pup and make sure you know the difference between dominating and just reprimanding for bad behavior since older dogs usually teach younger dogs proper doggie social skills.  Find a good trainer for advice   Remember, there are no bad dogs, just bad owners.  Never the dog's fault, always the handler's is what my trainer friends say.  Good luck and have fun

alboe2009

by alboe2009 on 10 February 2011 - 17:02

Don,

Was waiting a few hours for your response. I can understand some of your points  And there is no right or wrong. Just what works for the master and what makes peace in the household. For me, my dogs go everywhere that they possibly are allowed. At times they mind better than children. They have plenty of time to be a puppy and even as adults or yound adults they still act like puppies. But in my world there is a time and a place. Now, no way am I saying Train for 18 hrs. Play/be a puppy fpr two hrs and sleep the rest. Depending on the task training, ? 20 minute sessions three four times a day ? depending on what is being learned.

I live on a farm right now and just the simple fact of  letting all three dogs outdoors at the same time is playing. Then hey, if I'm going to Lowes, or to get gas, or to the grocery store, or for a trip to Tractor Supply or to my buddy's house, then load up the dogs and they're jumping for joy! Bonus!

To me training is many things, just as playing is. A simple "sit" before eating, drinking, getting a bone or having the kong thrown. Just making sure the pup understands the command opens the door for everything else. My mentality is training isn't work, it's fun/play. We as humans might think differently then the dogs at times. Training can be something so simple and escalate to something so intense. Not exactly sure if it's an image thing........ Prior military and prior LEO. But it's about my dogs representing me, the time and effort of everything I've done rolled up into three packages.. They represent not just being a GSD but being a well behaved animal in either ones' eyes that doesn't have aninals or in ones' eyes that does have animals to say 'Wish my dogs were that well trained." And they represent a dog that loves to work!

I can't give like a percentage of training like for OB for me, I wouldn't even say 35-40%? But at an early age that pup is already programmed to learn. Waiting and wanting. Without direction he/she will learn for themselves. Now I'm not saying everything learned on their own will be bad habits but some possibly will.  

So to each their own, I answered a few of the OPs questions and gave a description of what works under my roof.  

by dmdmitriev on 10 February 2011 - 23:02

This is the wife writing, sorry for the confusion earlier.

We would just like to focus on the main three questions.  Is the asphalt and brick hurting the puppy? Is it okay for him to be supervised with the older dogs (for about an hour or two out of the day)? And should we correct for chase chasing and playing ruff with the cat?

I really dont understand the cat (but that is for a cat forum).  If Gordy (the puppy) is biting the cat as hard as he is biting our legs, the cat either like beat downs or has high pain tollerence.  Either way, Gordy is being a puppy and the cat wont smack or bit him back to protect herself.  So we want to figure out a way to protect the cat or teach Gordy to play nice

All the recommendation that we hear are to just let him be a pup, build his drives, and neutralize him to the world.  He has lower food drive, so we will definitely work on that.  Until he has the drive to do a fast sit, fast down, or fancy/bouncy heal work, we don't see the benefit in teaching that yet.

Hopefully others will chime in about the three questions in our original post.  But thank you to those who have replied.





 


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