Kennel Disinfectant? - Page 3

 To tell the truth, again, in your situation, I see no reason to get heavy duty stuff. 1:10 bleach would be more than adequate. And yes, it will keep anything from growing in soil that gets that water. I would also not use Vikron in your situation....again, overkill. I rarely use these products, perhaps once or twice a week or if I have a dog have an accident in the kennel or vomit. But I am getting dogs in and out all the time, and sometimes from other states and sometimes even from other countries. So I am very conservative. If I have dogs from outside the country, I am more rigorous about using more disinfectant washes until I am sure the dog is healthy. The bad news about bleach again is the corrosive nature of it on metal. It pits microscopically. And that can lead to trouble, but such a dilution as mentioned is unlikely to cause trouble.

I stick with what works, but I also don't want to over do it either. The trouble I have with the Triple Two I use (with a state of the art dispensing system) is that it gives me asthma. Most of these disinfectants have the ability to do that and, in fact, I just read a paper on this problem. So less is better, not only for me, but for the dogs as well.

Take care. I am off to sleep.

Good idea!!!! Sleep sounds wonderful!

Bleach does not dissolve fats thus a lot of viruses (Parvo) and bacteria will not get killed with bleach alone since these are covered naturally or secondarily by fats. I use at first antibacterial dish soup let it soak in for 1/2 an hour  and then bleach solution 1/2 cup per gallon. (probably overkill solution but bleach is cheep) Do not mix bleach with soap. Do not use anti splash bleach .
Prager Hans
http://www.alpinek9.com 

Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) used in a 1:30 dilution or more does, indeed kill parvo virus. Anytime one is trying to disinfect something, yes, as much organic matter should be removed as possible. None the less, bleach is a cheap and effective disinfectant for the typical viruses and bacteria encountered by canines in a kennel setting.
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J Am Anim Hosp Assoc. 1995 May-Jun;31(3):254-8.
Virucidal efficacy of the newer quaternary ammonium compounds.
Kennedy MA, Mellon VS, Caldwell G, Potgieter LN.

Department of Comparative Medicine, College of Veterinary Medicine, University of Tennessee, Knoxville 37901-1071, USA.
The virucidal activity of several disinfectants containing newer generation quaternary ammonium compounds (QACs) as their active ingredients was evaluated. Disinfectants were used at the manufacturers' recommended dilutions with isolates of feline herpesvirus, feline calicivirus, and canine parvovirus, and a contact time of 10 minutes at room temperature. Detoxification of virus/disinfectant solutions was done by dialysis prior to virus assay in cell cultures. Two of four disinfectants completely inactivated feline herpesvirus, and two significantly reduced the titer of this virus. None of the disinfectants that were tested completely inactivated feline calicivirus. Canine parvovirus was not inactivated significantly by any of the QAC disinfectants. Sodium hypochlorite completely inactivated all viruses.
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http://www.aspcapro.org/canine-parvovirus.php

Fortunately for shelters, regular household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is one of the most inexpensive means of neutralizing parvovirus. It should be diluted 1 part bleach to 32 parts water (or 4 ounces of bleach to a gallon of water) to make it safe to use around animals yet still be effective.
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http://www.animalsheltering.org/resource_library/magazine_articles/the_scoop/parvo_2c.html
However, all strains can be reliably inactivated by correctly applied disinfectants documented to inactivate parvoviruses, including sodium hypochlorite (household bleach diluted at ½ cup per gallon) and potassium peroxymonosulfate (e.g. Trifectant ®).

Has anyone done this type of research with H2o2? I would like to see the conclusion.

Yes, there are many studies concerning the efficacy of these disinfectants, including H2O2. It is effective against canine parvo virus, even in vapor form. http://www.bioquell.com/resources/BDS-3-BIOEFFICACY-V5.0.pdf

Activity of AHP against the canine parvovirus: a 1/16 dilution of the
product was able to bring about a >4 log10 reduction in the viability titre of the parvovirus in a contact time of 5 minutes at ambient temperature, indicating good virucidal activity against this
organism.
www.virox.com/download.aspx?ItemInfoID=24

Look at this website for Virox......and look at the efficacy document as an example.
http://www.viroxtech.com/product/johnson_diversey.aspx

Hodie, if you WERE running a boarding kennel, what would you recommend for disinfecting the runs?

What works best on pea gravel, where it's often impossible to remove all the poop?

And right now, I have a problem with my dog yard smelling really bad due to lack of rain. (This is the yard for my personal dogs, and the yard is grass, so I don't want to use bleach.) Is water the best thing to get rid of the smell?  I put the sprinkler on the yard for about an hour today.

Sunsilver, 

I DO own a boarding kennel. 

With pea gravel or any other thing, including concrete, the question is what is the soil around the run like in terms of drainage. I am fortunate because the ground here is all hard packed sand and so it can snow two feet, have the sun come out and in two days that snow will be gone at this time of year. 

If your soil is more clay like, then drainage is an issue. So the best thing to do is be certain that you have a sufficiently porous foot or two in depth that water (and urine) can run off. In your case, no, you certainly do not want to use bleach or anything else. Sufficient water will eventually dilute the urine out. There are some deodorant type products you could use on the pea gravel (as well as a dilute bleach solution) but if it is all going to drain to the grass, then you cannot use these products.

Is there any way you can build a foot wide drainage trough of concrete or pipe (like a half pipe snow boarders play in) or even out of the dirt so that drainage from the pea gravel area will drain away from the grass through a trough?

In this case, the pea gravel is right against the house, about a foot wide strip between the patio and house. The house is concrete, with beige vinyl siding above the concrete. This area is nowhere near the grass.

Hodie, I know you run a boarding kennel. I was speaking in general terms, i.e. if one were running a boarding kennel.

Actually, to tell the truth, I have purchased a boarding kennel, and if I ever get the mortgage straightened out, will be taking possession of it May 31st. The current owners have been running it for 20 years, and only use household bleach for disinfecting. Indoor runs are ceramic tile, outdoor are either pea gravel or concrete. The have a central drainage system that goes into a large drain, similar to a Roman drain. It's a half barrel with holes punched in it, surrounded by gravel and stones.

Solid waste is picked up and either composted with kitchen and garden organic waste, or picked up on garbage day.

Sunsilver,

Sorry misunderstood your question then.

Feces should NOT be composted if it is going to be applied to soil growing food for human consumption.....

If I understand what you are saying about ceramic tile, there is grouting between the tile? That is a problem. Find a way to seal it (although it might be too late). 

There are odor control products, but the question is whether the water will drain to the grass. If it does, it might not work to use them. If the drainage is such it goes elsewhere, then I can recommend some products to use sparingly.

The most important thing about running a kennel is, in fact, making sure the dogs entering are healthy to begin with, that ventilation is good, and that disinfection is regular and appropriate for the situation. I don't know enough about the building to really say that bleach is appropriate or not. If the place is 20 years old, I suspect that it is not very clean. That is not a slam against the people running it, but construction methods. Depending on how it was built, and maintained, bleach may not be the right thing to use. And if also depends on how you set up health requirements for dogs coming in, ventilation, amount of dirt tracked in, drains and how those can be kept clean and whether all surfaces that might have urine or feces on them (other than the pea gravel outside) are sealed. If they are not sealed, odor and bacteria will be living there right along with you! 

Feel free to email me privately if you wish for help. If you have photos later to show me, that will help me give you better advice about options.

Good luck. You will find it is a lot of work.....