Dog with prey drive cannot access drive during bitework - Page 1

My dog recently started bite work as a part of her training, but something seems to be strange ( to me ) , and it would help to get some seasoned third party opinions. Over the last few months I have worked building up by dog's willingness to chase prey, and now I can only physically through ball fewer times than she is willing to go after it. With me she bites the tug nicely and fights for it with full grip , pushing both in and out ( wanting to tear it away....which she " wins" after a decent struggle, and she begins that snorty grumble ).

When she faced with the decoy and the sleeve unlike other dogs ( even as young as 5 months ) who bite the sleeve , she does not bite the sleeve but goes into immediate forward defense and is focused on trying to bite the decoy instead.

She has been socialized extensively, but she her self is not social. We stopped people from touching her at age of 6 mos.

How can we get her to start taking the sleeve from the stranger/decoy.

Why is she going into defense as the helper approaches?

Any advice / opinions?

Mithuna, this is the behavior your dog showed from day one.
I am a bit confused though, does the helper use a tug or a sleeve?
How often did you train yet?
How old is she by now?
Does she show aggresion ONLY or does she act out of insecurity? Try to be honest, please. No dog is born "perfect", but we need to understand.

You can get several different responses to this question. All dogs mature at different stages. I believe a key part of your dog working in defense is not allowing anyone else to pet your dog from 6 months. Prey is not a wussy drive. Animals kill other animals while in prey drive. You can try to get the decoy out of the picture buy using a flirt pole to make the object dance, in hopes of generating prey drive. The Helper could also stand side ways in a profile picture to the dog instead of standing squarely in front of the dog. Let us know how you make out.

Susie

1. Helper uses sleeves of different sizes.

2. She was introduced to the formal bite work only 1 time. ( first two times she was allowed to watch the other dogs in action )

3. She is two days short of 15 months.

4. whats your definition of aggression only. She moves forward ( away from me towards the helper ) , but lips are raised and she bares teeth. As the helper moves a certain distance away she does not pursue him

 

Kyle:

Both the breeder and Leerberg suggests that the dog does not need to be petted by strangers after the age of 6 months..

 

Kyle she readily takes the tug from me and fight to regain it. I fight back until I can hear that grumbling and then releases it to her. On occasions she finds the tug and bring it to me to start playing with it.

Can you post a video?
Many different answers to this question. Would be difficult to guide you in right direction without seeing it.

will try to do a vid on the next training day....which is Sunday Oct 15.

You have a time machine?

Would like to see.
Sounds like she does have prey drive, you need to find a decoy that knows how to work a defensive dog in prey.

Are you trying to do dog sport or personal protection? If you are doing dog sport the dog must grip the sleeve for points. If you are doing personal protection then you can work on gripping different parts of the body other than a sleeve. Part of dog training is reading the dog and understanding why the dog behaves the way it does? What drive is it in. Video would be very helpful.

Sounds like your dog is protecting you from the perceived threat that is the helper. Once the threat to you goes away her work is done. Many dogs will protect their house, territory or food as they will go after a stranger that is invading their territory. A mother dog can be as sweet as sugar but if she perceives another dog or human as a threat to her puppies she will drive them away from the puppies or the nest. The dogs good at bite work see the helper as both a competitor and a threat. The really good dogs for bite work see the helper as a real threat to them but they are so competitive to win the fight that the danger doesn't matter. I call these dogs the "dogs that fight with fury". They get mad as hell and are going to inflict some pain on the helper before he can inflict pain on them. It's similar to what happens when boxers hear the bell and come out of their corners. If the boxer wants to win and not get hurt he knows to come out of his corner and attack or look for an opening to attack because staying in your corner will get you hurt or knocked out. Your dog has to learn that the helper is an opponent that can hurt her and that she must attack and keep attacking to win.