Imprinting Puppies Question - Page 1

Could someone explain the process of imprinting puppies after they've been whelped?  I'd like to know what is the most important part of this process and what is the most critical stages to properly imprint.

You need to specify what your end goal is with the puppy.  are you looking to have a protection dog or a stable companion...

If one was wanting these pups for real working dogs not "pets".  PP, Police, SAR and even for SCH.

Xeus- I wanted to ask the general question but also in my particular preference for what I'd want the pup for would be PP work first; if the pup did not show the ability to be a serious dog but yet stable in nerves then I'd go the Schutzhund route.  I'd find something the dog was good at and then focus on his strengths before I'd let him just lay around the house and do nothing all his life.  That would be hella boring for both of us. lol

One of the things that I use for the bitework/prey drive is a rolled up towel on a string. the towel teaches the dog to open his mouth. Plus using the string makes it bounce around  better.  i also start using a small ball.  I only play with these two items for the first month or so to really make him love it.  Also start him young with food tracking it will pay off later in life.  Also I make sure that the puppy is around a lot of people and especiallly children.

At what age should you perform the rolled up towel on a string?  If the pup goes crazy over a ball at a very young age does this mean he has a lot of prey drive?  How do you distinguish what his defense drives would be at an early age?

I start the towel at 7 weeks. That is the problem with puppies you dont really know at a young age what they will turn out to be. The things that I look for is does he shake his head when he is on the towel, shows fight drive or at least determination. Was he the dominant one, was he the first pup to come and greet you, this all shows the nerve of the dog and the potential temperment. the ball and the chasing of the towel shows the prey drive which is important for obedience and for bitework. as the weeks go on the puppy starts to learn the game and as you teach him to bite full and deep and how to counter.

A sthe weeks go by you play rougher with the puppy, you start to introduce items like milk jugs and things to get him use to all sort of things. I will also introduce the sit and down commands with treats, I make everything fun for the puppy.

If at 4 months old a pup is not showing much interest in a ball or tug toy could this be a sure sign he was not expossed to this by the breeder?  He is very calm, extremly loving- wants to lay at your feet no matter where you sit and follows you everywhere.  He will bite at a stick though and likes it when you take a long stick and slowly drag it around passed him- this he will perk up and chase around but when I bounce or toss a ball he'll put his ears up for a second then just disregard it's even there.  I know for certain the breeder was not doing a lot of things she should have been so I'm wondering if it's that I need to retract to the beginning and start from scratch OR if it's possible since I just brought him home everything is so new to him that he's just not ready to jump on in there and start doing a little work??  I had someone experienced evaluate the litter who told me he felt this particular pup showed many traits as my adult dog and these were things I love about my dog, would want in every GSD I'd ever own from here on after.  He said when he saw the pups several weeks ago he liked this pups bite but he's gonna need to be imprinted from the beginning if we want to do things properly to get the best out of him.  I just wasn't sure what exactly was meant by this since we haven't gone into a more detailed conversation but instead I was told to give the pup a few days to explore his new surroundings before I overwhelm him with "work".

Imprinting "for what" is definitely a key question, because imprinting can imply many things.

The so-called "first critical period" is from birth to 12 weeks, but even prior to that, the prenatal period has far greater significance to the early development of the dog's mind.  Each puppy's individual genes and the mother's hormones deserve their due credit for influence, and can easily fuzzify the boundaries described in the weekly breakdowns of Neonatal (1-2wks), Transitional (2-4wks), Dog Socialization (4-6wks) and Human Socialization (4-12wks).

Greatest key before birth then, is a stress free mother, who is provided with proper nutrition, excercise and warmth.  The first imprint after a pups birth is the scent of the mother's saliva.  She licks the pups to remove afterbirth, stimulate breathing, urination and defication but very importantly, the saliva is the "first laid track", a chemical-imprint, they'll follow to her saliva-washed nipples.

As far as breeder involvement goes with early imprinting, the 6 to 8 week period is probably optimal for many things.  Between 3 and 8 weeks, they should be exposed to a wide range of potentialy fear-reacting stimuli, such as strange new places or sudden loud/sharp sounds, to help desensitize/habituate them to a variety of environments.  Start small, be very observant of the pups reactions because if it seems near the threshold of responding fearfully, you should withdraw before the breaking point.  Gradually increase the difficulty or magnitude in later sessions, but always keep it fun, "The puppy always wins".  This, in a sense, can be considered imprinting as well.

The Socialization period (supposedly) ends at 12 weeks, by which time the pup should have been exposed to a good number other animals and people (especially cats & children, IMO).  Socialization can truly be an ongoing process, from juvenile stage and on, and how much may depend on personal preference, but the most undesired "antisocial" behaviors usually stem through lack of proper socialization prior to the 12 week age.

The canine mind is still very malleable from this 12 week age and on.  Don't ever doubt it.  But now there are "sets of behaviors" that can be easily retained long into adulthood, a sort of "sense of identity" has been established.

What imprinting basicaly means is to pre-wire a set of behaviors that will be used in later learning.  Puppy rag play is just a fun game that teaches to catch with the mouth, anticipate movement, hold tightly and such that it "all comes together" more naturally when the game later transitions to the actual protection work.

Quick, short sessions are best, to keep from overwhelming him.  Have a goal in mind before you begin, and just work on one thing at a time.

Make a toy that you can manipulate with the alternating behaviors of BOTH the ball and the stick.  A ball on the end of a string can be drug across the ground, or snapped up into the air.  You'll get more natural motion with your prey-toy if it's attached to a flexible handle (whip, fishing pole,...)  I like to use a baby-kong on the end of a whip, with a 8-12" soft flair of polarfleece from the ball (very simple setup).

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