Bite suit - Page 2

Thanks guys, that was one of the more interesting and descriptive posts I have seen on PDB, whatever the rights and wrongs involved. Shawnicus, if you have other vids of your dog, (in which he takes hold of the decoy in a suit somewhere else than running around him to get to the left arm), perhaps you ought to have thought what you were illustrating for us and put them up first; hope you do put them up, very soon.

Where does it say on the post leg bite or any other area bit it says first time on suit the people who h ave posted so far on this I've never see a video of their dogs biting anything but yet you all feel the need to deflate someone else's efforts.yes it an arm bite but video shows good commitment to a new bite object .So the dog bites what he knows. Nice dog now spend time showing your dog the other area's available to target no rush just continue to have fun and most importantly u both enjoy what u are doing.This is why posting videos here is a waist of time because nobody looks and see the video for what it is always looking for the negative always trying to add to the video with something they can't show themselves.

I disagree with bubba.

Nice dog, and he didn't "go out of his way" to take a bite on the forearm like an IPO dog without transitional training would do. He took a bite on the tricep which is a perfectly correct target for a flee/escape bite in a bite suit...and which is also the target your decoy showed the dog.

It is important the dog just launches and grabs, which this dog did. A dog looking for the forearm would run much further along the side of the decoy and obviously be looking to only bite the forearm.
 

gsd very we'll put

Correct targets for an upper body dog is bicep, tricep and forearm (A dog should target the bicep/armpit for frontal attacking assailants and tricep/armpit for fleeing subjects...forearms in close scenarios if that's what's only available or presented).  A dog should not target the back unless he has no other choice due to the surface being in-conducive to a good grip.

Correct targets for leg dogs is anywhere on the upper or lower leg (not sure why but I've been taught eyes should be facing out). Sport dogs can target the crotch...not good for police dogs...Shit happens but you don't want to be sitting in court with evidence you trained like that.

French Ring (an ESQUIVE sport) like a dogs primary target to be the legs because in their sport, the goal of their very athletic decoy is to esquive and make the dog miss. It is easy for these guys to make an upper body dog miss becuase the dog has to leave the ground and launch.

PSA (a sport where the decoy runs AT the dog to test courage).  The decoys goal is to essentially run the dog.  A dog can be taught either upper body OR legs. The dog should have a primary target where the decoy can predict how they will be catching the dog due safety. The decoy is often running full speed at the dog who is running full speed at the decoy....if the decoy can predict how to catch the dog a safe catch can be made. If the dogs target is unpredictable a bad crash and jam could kill the dog or severely injure the decoy.

For police or PPD's I prefer an upper body dog who will take legs if that's all he can get. Reason being there are more pressure points on the arms and the skin is closer to the bone... causing an incapacitating effect making for more immediate give ups. Don't get me wrong either is perfectly functional and both hurt very much, but the goal of a police dog bite is an immediate give up followed by compliance. I have seen more police dogs get bashed on the head while biting legs and more give ups on arms.

For personal reference... Incident 1. I have had ONE tooth go into my elbow, couldn't bend it for a month....needed a brace and physical therapy.  Incident 2. Had ONE tooth go into a pressure point on my upper forearm, completely paralyzed the ability to extend my pinky and ring finger for a couple weeks...took a few months to regain full function.

I don't give a lot of credence to the opinion that a (real biting dog) should be primarily a leg dog because an upper body dog can be made to miss. An assailant/fleeing subject will certainly not have the same presence of mind and athletic skill that these ring decoys have if he's running from a dog. Yes it is possible they will try to esquive but they will be an easy get for a good dog no matter how they are trained (unless they are a trained ring decoy I suppose). JMO

 

(made a few edits due to typos)

Forgot to add.
Whether you have an "upper body" or "leg dog" ...they should certainly be acclimated to biting the other area later in training (if their primary target is blocked or unavailable)
Their primary target created in their foundation should remain solid and predictable if you are doing any long distance sends.

GSD thank you sir , he's very green on the suit still but I will
Post more videos but he prefers upper body unless a leg is all he's got

Here's a video of him
Today .. Going for the armpit, he's new to the suit still 

You're welcome...and It's ma'am

Nice dog Shawn enjoy him. What is your goal with your training?

Your decoy should have "absorbed" his hit by turning the other way (drop step with his right foot on impact instead of his left) but no harm no foul, looks like your decoy is learning too.

Regards