training to pursue and bite - Page 1

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by GSDONLINE on 31 January 2006 - 17:01

i have a dog that will bark at the helper and bite while on leash but will not pursue and bite, once he gets away from the handler he hesitates/stops and needs "help" to pursue and bite. he had a past bad experience i suppose. at home, he will pursue me and bite a tug/sleeve while on me, however not while on the "bad guy". we have tried escapes to no avail. any suggestions or things you have tried that have worked would be greatly appreciated.

by SGBH on 31 January 2006 - 18:01

Have you tried a really long lead that allows you to increase distance(a bit at a time), while giving the dog the "security" that you are still with him?

by Gertrude Besserwisser on 31 January 2006 - 20:01

What you have is probably a dog whose prey drive has not been sufficiently developed so that he feels intense enough to go after the prey without the handler nearby. The long line as suggested by SGBH will, in part, help this problem as it will serve as an extended embellical cord of support between the handler and dog. In building the drive, the first step before letting the dog chase the helper is to back tie him with the handler standing a few feet behind the dog. The dog is taught to work on his own, but his handler is nearby. It takes the handler (his handling skills or lack there of) out of the picture which often times has come between the dog and his drive. With a competent training (i.e. not trial) helper---there is a difference---who can read your dog, prey drive should gradually rise to the next level which will allow the dog the confidence to chase the helper. Perhaps though, the dog may work better in defense, this should be tested for. One exercise you could use is to have the helper walk up to the handler (ignore the dog and under no circumstances threaten the dog) and then suddenly shove the handler backwards. Then the helper can either stand there waiting for a reaction or take a few steps backwards (not run away because this would be changing to prey). If the dog suddenly goes for the helper as many dogs will, see if it is with commitment. If so, the dog will probably work best in defense. But of course, it should not be worked exclusively in defense.





 


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