Kennel Design - Page 3

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Jenni78

by Jenni78 on 19 July 2014 - 03:07

I have 4 10x6 runs that have double walls in between, so I can separate by putting a solid divider in, or I can open them up and make them as large or small as I need. Flooring is untreated pine decking (no treated wood near my pups!) and the treated beams in front are not in reach of the dogs. The run area off the side that you see is about 22x20 or so. I use this for pups when there are pups, and for Capri when there are no pups and I'm not home. She is not very good in the house alone, LOL. She's a fridge raider.

I can take better pics. There will be indoor insulated boxes before winter, but we haven't gotten around to those yet. As my dogs don't "live" in there, they haven't been necessary yet, but I would like them done before it gets cold so they can stay in there during the day when they're not supervised. More a concern for the Pit Bulls than the GSD. I should post Simon's run...he has a window and flowers, LOL. He can be trusted with amenties like that. Capri.......not so much. ;)


mfh27

by mfh27 on 19 July 2014 - 22:07

I would like to see more, Jenni!

We are almost done our kennel deck, so pictures will follow.


Prager

by Prager on 20 July 2014 - 14:07

Dog should ideally have small area and large area. Small area- indoor -serves as a den. It should not be very big 4x4 or even little smaller is OK  In this case bigger is not better. 

 Outside should be  at least 4 x 8 or better yet 5 x 12. If the dogs are more  hyper use more wide kennel or with front  side longer then deep> In that case 8 X 6 or 10 X 6 is good. This keeps dogs calmer.  I also recommend to put  outside box with gravel. Most dogs will  use it to eliminate. You can have a grate under it and drain to septic.

Very important is the that the kennel is sloping to the drain, has upper part so the dog can not climb out and is mostly shaded .  If you live in cold windy  climate make the inside part "L" or "Z" shaped. Cedar and shredded news paper bedding.  The inside should have wooden tray.  The  rest of the flooring is best to be made of sealed concrete.I warm and hot climates concrete is the best.  In some countries they prefer wood. If that is your choice do not use pressure treated wood. Use normal hard wood and seal it with high quality clear paint used on the hulls of wooden ships and boats. 

Make sure that the kennel has roof all above indoors and out. In places where it snows a lot you may wake up and kennel will be full of snow and dogs gone. In hot climates roof will provide shade.  

 Make sure that the indoor part has easy access. Kimbertal indoor kennel is one of the best I have seen. The water bucket is incorrect though dog will most definitely knock it down> Also continuous feeder may not be such a great idea. Dogs tend to eat too much if you keep it full.  I like the tray. In my opinion the shredded paper is the best bedding . But must be changed  almost daily. 

The immediate walls between the runs must be made of  brick or block or something solid(!!!) and NOT USE CHAIN LINK FENCE(!!!) . Paint is so it is sealed to microbes.   If you make it with chain link, dogs will bite each other through the fence.  Double fancing is OK in private kennels but not in large commercial kennels. And You will eventually lose ears. Indoor outdoor  must have guillotine doors preferably operatable from indoors and outside too. 

 The question is also if the drain should be between indoor and out door run or by the front end of the outside run. Each has its pros and cons. Between the runs drain  one is easier to house out from out side and inside and this it is probably better but  in order to clean it you need to enter the kennel and hose the train.  Drain on the front outside of the run is more hygienic but you need to enter the outside run to hose it.  I can not over emphasize significant slope towards the drain. Slope makes it all easier to clean and keeps the kennel drier without squeegeeng -  which is 75% of cleaning  time if the run is not sloping properly. 

 Outside gate should have about 2 ft solid part. 

 Also make sure that outside of the kennel is safely fenced with preferably 16 ft fence with top leaning in. No parallel barbed wires!!!!. The are etremally dangerous to your dog.( LOL as I stated elsewere on this forum) . Best but very expensive fencing is a tennis court fencing ( small holes) In any case use only high gage wire  of professional qulity. You know that the wire is strong enough if you get 4 inch pece of it  and you can not bend it  with your hand. I believe  12 gauge is such wire.  DO NOT BUY chain lik kennels from Home depo or Lows or pet stores!!! They are made of wire material  akin to cheese.  HIRE LOCAL FENCE COMPANY to make you custom panels.  Also panes should have about 2 inch clerence from the ground. ( The horisonatal pipe above the ground should be 2 inches above the ground thus the pannel should have little 2in stubs .)  You can use chainling pannes all around only if the kennels are free standing. 

 I hope this helps.

 Prager Hans






 


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