Active helper versus passive helper - Page 4

This is a six year old dog, only third time ever with a decoy...decoy is green.

Scenario was to have decoy be in a place, (between two vehicles), that was unusual for a stranger to be. This is the first time this decoy and dog have ever laid eyes on each other. Timeframe for this dog to ever work with any decoy ( only ever worked on bite suit) ; first time with any bite work was when he was two yr old. Second time was as a four yr old. And the third time, a couple weeks ago, as a six year old. No bite training in between.

 The decoy did not threaten, no whip, stick, etc...he was responding to my voice to 'get him'...I think this would qualify as 'passive decoy', dog shows natural genetic work and appropriate aggression.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/53jaz5hatubq1h9/Otto%206%20yr%20old%20pp%20.mp4?dl=0

I have always built my dogs on suspicion I working 2pup I breed myself I get the decoy to hide behind a tree step out when the dog barks once he get the decoy fires a ball towards him at yhe same time start to introduce a bark comand . I do that for a week no running around just stepping out next week after after one bark dog is like hey mother fu#### where is the ball and won't stop barking till he gets it . After time the decoy makes his way towards the dog and stops half way dog barks when decoy stands get the ball again . This happens till the decoy is on top of the dog . And now anybody comes on my property and the doggo mad I started these pups at thos a 4month old they are 8 months now and pick up on everything and bark like mad when someone is about .It's hard to explain in writing so I hope u can understand what I am trying to say

I understand just what you are explaining, yogi. I have trained all my Sch dogs for hold and bark that way.

My dog in the video does the barking by his nature, no training to bark.
The decoy was starting to go behind the car on my left, Otto wanted to go to that side and head him off, I interrupted the decoy and had him come forward, instead. Some dogs can instinctively pick up on their handler's urgency to act aggressively....most dogs must be conditioned to so.

As an aside, Otto is totally under control when in public.

" I have been doing bitework for several dogs lately where the bitework was not so good IMO and owners said the bitework is real good on very active helpers, running, throwing sleeve around and whipping a lot before engaging
these were dogs that had quite a bit of training in them

Ideal IMO is passive helper and active dog

any toughts"
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This was Duke´s initial post...

He tested several ( trained ) dogs, as a decoy, he didn´t behave like crazy, just like a decoy should behave in front of dogs used to bitework, and as a result the trained (!) dogs failed.

Any "trained" ( = used to a sleeve/bitework as a whole ) dog shouldn´t need "personal entertainment" from the decoy - the situation helper, leash, handler should be more than enough - a dog with suitable temperament will react, a dog with a too high threshold/passive temperament won´t.

Guess, you missed the point - "passive" in this case is not "sitting down", or "not moving", but "regular" helperwork.
There are a lot of dogs out there you have to "wake up" - AFTERWARDS they will do a more or less good job - but do you really want to wake your dog up every time???

That´s the question

I rather 'alert' my dog myself verbally, than to have him just walk up and bite someone just standing still not even looking at the dog.