Serious obedience question - Page 2

Yeah, but bitework is FUN obedience.  You get to do more than walk around xD

So I guess my boredom stems from the heeling, not the other exercises.  The dumbbell retrieve was soooooooooo much fun to teach (once I figured out how...I clicker trained it).  Scent articles and hand signals are a blast.  Left and right turns, not so much, lol

I enjoy obedience in terms of bonding time with my dog, I just don't think I'll ever be the "spit and polish for trial" type.

Nice looking dog,

Stick with it.

Thanks :-)

Due to money issues we are not currently trialing, but I AM trying to get him back up to par so we can go for our CDX (past attempts have been baaaaaaaaaaaaaaad).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO5MAHiqYnQ <--this is us at an AKC sanctioned match, and Strauss' first time back in a ring in 15 months.  Rocky?  Yes.  But the attention he gives once he settles is fantastic....I just wish I knew how to get him settled right away x.x

By the way, the reason we "start over" isn't the fault of myself and the dog :-)  The JUDGE decided to start over because she couldn't keep up with us!  She doesn't see many GSDs competing anymore, and the ones she does see are usually slugs, so she had us start over for HER, ROFL!

The settling down just takes time, never right away.

A warm up period maybe.

Xeph,

If you like protection then you like obedience you just dont know it. Obedience is no more then focusing your dogs drive and teaching him or her that if they play by some simple guidelines they can release that drive and be satisfied. Protection is no different, for weeks we will teach the dog to focus their drive towards the sleeve first then the helper. Once we have taped all the dogs drive we start teaching the dog there are rules to releasing that drive and if he or she plays right their drive is satisfied. Obedience is much the same, we teach the dog drive drive drive then ask them to perform some simple command and the quicker they do that command the sooner they receive their reward. So try not thinking of obedience like your having to teach your dog to be obedient but more like your playing and having fun with your dog but their are rules and guild lines to that playing. And thank you Schutzhund_girl_90.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JQY5H1WhJQ&feature=related <--This one isn't as bad as I originally thought it was...but it was much rougher and the wait time was horrendous....I had no kennel with me.  2:30-2:45 are the best 15 seconds for me.

After that it was a disaster :-p

I do not fault my dog for his drop on recall because that was the fault of the JUDGE, not my DOG.  He responded when I said platz, and I only said platz when the judge raised his hand!  Judges underestimate my moose all the time because they only see the Molasses Shepherds.  They're not used to one that actually enjoys his work.  I've gotten dinged and "pardoned" (not faulted) because of their underestimations of his drive and desire to work with me.  And I was extremely happy with the finish he gave me :-)

Thank you Prodogz and SchutzhundGirl....by the way SG, your dogs be gorgeous ^_^

Xeph

As far as i am concerned you can put your left arm anywhere you want to so long as you do not use it to control the Dog or give it any form of  help during the work

It does not need to be at you side in a straight down  position

I always walk with my left arm bent over my front, There are no rules over here regarding that

You say you are cannot maintain enthusiasm with Heeling work

What about the Stand, Down, and SIt positions you teach your dog, two ofthose excersises at a trot or moving then giving the command

What about the 1 m Jump and the A Frame with the Block

What about the Vooruit, when you send the Dog away and give the down command, If you do not find any of these interesting then the Whole obedinance side of the game or the sport cannot be interesting to you

All those phases are not learned in two minutes,it takes a fair time and no one in any country has ever perfected them yet not with anyone dog all the time, So it is not to be taken lightly

It is in this phase of the ScHh sport that the Handler and Dog Fail more than the Tracking and Protection Phases

It is not so easy a thing to get right and on the day no matter how good a Handler and Dog works together, mistakes will be made and at a cost regards the Score

But by the look of your PIc's the Dog is doing very well, and he likes what he does, I cannot say the same for you by the look on your face, You do seem to be a bored young Lady

Steve

One thing of an advantage you folk have over there i guess in the USA is the indoor space to work in the winter, we do not, we work in the evenings in all weathers rain , Snow or freezoing weather and we have flood lights on to see where we are going training starts at 7.oclock in the evening and goes on until around 11.oclock

By that time you are one block of ice, but it is Fun

I love teaching the moving halts, I just hate heel work.  I find it dull and don't understand why everybody demands absolute perfection with straight sits.  I care that the dog does it and does it quickly...I DON'T care if he sits a quarter inch too far away or into me.

I AM having a bit of an issue in regards to schutzhund + AKC, and that is that right now my dog is doing the send out for AKC, but keeps laying down even when I tell him to sit...I think he's confused, and I've not found a good way to rectify this issue (randomly telling him to sit doesn't seem to be helping either).

I admit I'm concerned about the retrieve over the A-Frame ruining his already shaky agility contact.  In AKC the dog is not allowed to dismount the A-Frame unless it touches a safety contact zone....and in schutzhund I see lots of the dogs just vaulting themselves off the top which is concerning to me.  I don't see the meter jump being an issue.  I've not gotten to train my dog on Schutzhund dumbbells since I currently don't own any, and all money is going to important things like, you know, foo xD

One way is to keep the Dog on a line, tell it to sit and back away  three yards only, then walk bach and stand in front of the dog then move to the side if it goes to move, SIT, keep repeating it at three yards then move a little more away

always use a firm voice, and do not keep repeating the word, bring it from the bottom or the stomach not from the throat meaning exaggerate all the voice commands, this way he will take notice

As regards the Dumb bell you should be able to buy a small one for around 12 euros but not a lot more in dollars

Just put the Dog on a line or leash, get him to carry it, run round with him holding it then catch hold of both ends and move it side to side not unwards the Dog will grip harder then let him keep it and run around agaiin and do the same again make it a game for him so he holds the block do not try and make him let it go at this stage

then you go on from there

Steve

Either you like it or you don't some do some not.  Obedience is a stepping stone to the other things that you do like.  Myself I would not train a dog for bite work without good obedience.