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by susie on 18 March 2014 - 22:03
by Paul Garrison on 18 March 2014 - 23:03
vk4gsd
It was better when people thought you were an IDOIT. But you had to make comments and remove all doubts.
It was better when people thought you were an IDOIT. But you had to make comments and remove all doubts.
by vk4gsd on 19 March 2014 - 00:03
http://www.workingdogforum.com/vBulletin/f9/schutzhund-pull-back-vs-pushing-36874/
thats right joan i am an "IDOIT".... I - DO - IT
wheras you are just an IDIOT
thats right joan i am an "IDOIT".... I - DO - IT
wheras you are just an IDIOT
by Hired Dog on 19 March 2014 - 11:03
Zdog, one of the reasons why I dont post very much, is because I dont have the time nor temperament to go into detail and explain every single nuance that can come up with a subject.
I have no idea who anyone trains with, "real world" to me means actual working dogs that go to work daily to earn a living, not sport dogs, not show dogs or agility dogs, etc.
Indeed some dogs pull and others push, some of that is genetic and some trained, neither makes a dog bad. Yes, I have seen dogs get corrected during IPO training for thrashing/shaking, thats probably one of the biggest reasons why you see dogs on sale with claims, "dead calm bite", etc.
This can get long and detailed, but, I am sure you are getting the point...these forums are not the best place to get into a detailed discussion that is best achieved in person.
VK4, I am not sure what your role here is or what you are trying to prove...
I have no idea who anyone trains with, "real world" to me means actual working dogs that go to work daily to earn a living, not sport dogs, not show dogs or agility dogs, etc.
Indeed some dogs pull and others push, some of that is genetic and some trained, neither makes a dog bad. Yes, I have seen dogs get corrected during IPO training for thrashing/shaking, thats probably one of the biggest reasons why you see dogs on sale with claims, "dead calm bite", etc.
This can get long and detailed, but, I am sure you are getting the point...these forums are not the best place to get into a detailed discussion that is best achieved in person.
VK4, I am not sure what your role here is or what you are trying to prove...
by vk4gsd on 19 March 2014 - 22:03
"VK4, I am not sure what your role here is or what you are trying to prove..."
just trollin.....kiddin, just trying to point out some of the idiocy that bounces around the dog world by self proffessed experts.
just trollin.....kiddin, just trying to point out some of the idiocy that bounces around the dog world by self proffessed experts.
by KYLE on 20 March 2014 - 13:03
Good question thanks for posting.
In IPO, a full mouth, calm grip gives more points and a better picture of the dogs temperment to the judge. If the dog grips the sleeve with the front canine teeth, this is indicative of a dog that MAY lack confidence, weak in nerves and not confident or comfortable in the bite. As others have said full grip is when the entire sleeve is in the dogs mouth, no space between the sleeve and the back of the dogs mouth. Countering is when the dog pushes forward to get more sleeve into the dogs mouth then bites down harder. Now the helper can mess up the counter by not pulling back to help set the bite after the counter. If the dog counters and the helper does not pull back the dog could start mouthing or develope a weak grip because the prey is not moving. I want my dog to counter then pull back to posses the prey object. On the escape I want my dog to punch into the sleeve, grip, then drop his/her arse to stop the fleeing helper. No better picture than to see a sprinting helper come to a sudden stop because of the dogs efforts.
Kyle
In IPO, a full mouth, calm grip gives more points and a better picture of the dogs temperment to the judge. If the dog grips the sleeve with the front canine teeth, this is indicative of a dog that MAY lack confidence, weak in nerves and not confident or comfortable in the bite. As others have said full grip is when the entire sleeve is in the dogs mouth, no space between the sleeve and the back of the dogs mouth. Countering is when the dog pushes forward to get more sleeve into the dogs mouth then bites down harder. Now the helper can mess up the counter by not pulling back to help set the bite after the counter. If the dog counters and the helper does not pull back the dog could start mouthing or develope a weak grip because the prey is not moving. I want my dog to counter then pull back to posses the prey object. On the escape I want my dog to punch into the sleeve, grip, then drop his/her arse to stop the fleeing helper. No better picture than to see a sprinting helper come to a sudden stop because of the dogs efforts.
Kyle
by KYLE on 23 March 2014 - 19:03
View and vision on grips.
http://tiekerhook.com/index.php/news/vision.html
Kyle
http://tiekerhook.com/index.php/news/vision.html
Kyle
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