I do everything in terms of helpe work with my dogs first. I teach them whole routine, and all aspects I can think up in my brain first. I find this is benefical in certain things. First I do not trust a lot helpers. They seem to have a knack for not listening to my wishes. And I have a program that I have conjuered up in my small brain, I do not like deviation from the program. So the safest way for me to teach, is just for me to teach.
I am my dogs fight coach. A helper that is not me, Is there sparring partner in training. And in a trial the real opposition. Just like any new fighter, you do not have him spar or fight without going through me first.
Many people on here are correct that relationship between the helper should be something different that my relationship with the dog. I do not send my dog into a situation to learn something along with taking the stressed and pressures.
So, the things I do. I teach bite impriting with a rag. Once I am statisfied with this. I have two options I can teach a behavior or I can start to show the dog how pressure will look.
For pressure I show the stick and threats while the dog is gripping a bite pillow, or rag. (this is also part of my program, I do not use the sleeve). I do this by having the dog run at me with toy. when they are far away I show them threats, This way the dog can see the picture from comfortable distance. I am just showing them what it looks like. A lot of the time, I do not even engage the dog. I only engage if the dog willingly brings the toy to me. Over time, I decrease the distance. This way it's safe, I can always give the dog more room if need be. Once this is solid, I have dog run to me with the toy, show a threat from a far. then engage and show it again. These sessions are very short. I start showing them the drive, the long bite.
Teach the Bark and hold with a ball at first. I have found that teaching this on helper. I make sure there is no molesting of me or the ball before the helper is introduced. I just do not want to have that conflict between the helper and the dog. There is enough conflict going on simply by having the dog in that close of proximity of the helper. I want the operant behaviors trained first. The training helper for me is not a behavior teaching tool but a tool used to focus on the fight. I do not want the dog to have to try and be correct as well as fight.
And for training behaviors. I teach everything with a toy that keeps the dog fight threshold low while teaching. generally, my dogs fight threshold is lower for a ball. I had too many problems with secondary Obedience in bite work with my first dog. And I attribute that to using a helper with a sleeve to teach the secondary OB. I teach the dog the stay in a down, with walking around. I teach targeting with the pillow, and most important. I do not put my dog on helper without the out being as proofed as possible. Again, another conflict I do associated with the decoy.
Basically, and I have said it before. I want the dog to have OB as second nature so they can focus on fighting the nan.
I teach the dog the start of the back transport. By putting the dog in a sit, with me in front with the pillow, I step back and comback in and give a dog a bite for staying put.
The escape. I show them that.
Running blinds. I teach them to run one blind 6 times with me giving the bite in the middle of the field on the last one. Than I put 2 blinds out. have them run those as if there is six blinds. giving the bite on the last one with me in the middle of the field. then I make a triangle with three blinds. And I will work on directional control of the dog, by sending them around the blinds in a random order.
Once this is all said and done and the dog is reliable. I bring in a helper to stand behind me and go back to one blind 6 times. One blind is nice cause they cannot run the wrong the blind. Also, I think that dogs miss blinds sometimes cause people teach the blinds as a directional training first, When they need to know that is duration of time for running blinds. Duration first, direction second, proof third. And for proofing, that helper behind me. Will start giving attraction. But I do not want the dog to go to him. I want the helper to be able to crack whip, scream his name...whatever and the dog run one blind six times prior to getting a bite. The only way to a bite is to listen to me....not the helper. Than I move to 2 blinds, then the triangle. I have an 11 months old pup that can literally run 20 blinds with the helper trying to get him to come get a bite before I say. And the dog is bomb proof.
There is more to it than just what I wrote but you get the idea. I want to have that impulse control down first before adding in the grand daddy of motivation the helper.
As for the relationship the dog has with me and the helper. It's still different. I do not think you can install fight in a dog. Nor will doing your bite work to teach stifle it. In fact I think it improves on the relationship. Any dog worth it's charcter will know there is difference between daddy teaching him and a helper fighting with him.