Shipped semen or close enough drive to Louisville, Kentucky. What's available for a reasonable price? I do understand that the higher quality and TITLES = a greater fee, but I'm not willing to pay an arm and a leg, so $750 and above fees don't respond. :o)
A byb with 3 untitled females and pending hips complaining what others are doing?
"not to be mean but if you can't do those things yourself don't expect others in a stud to do it and not charge they are only wanting price of pup for stud fee"--mkennels
If you are referencing my boys and their tests, they both have certified normal hips/elbows, working titles and one carries coat by producing coats, no need to DNA for coat when he's produced it. The other boy hasn't been tested for coat and I don't know that I will.
I would also not pay for a stud dogs health tests, that is the owners responsibility, not the "customer" and since it is important to me to find a dog clear of coats, I would expect that people that have long coat FREE dogs would respond, and those that DON'T have long coat free dogs would NOT respond.
On collecting/chilling and shipping semen.....do you do it yourself or have the vet do it?
Fedex overnight to almost anywhere in the lower 48 US States is $60 or less.
Kenney Extender is $30 or less for 100ml vial.
Styrofoam cooler box, cool packs, packing material, syringes....all under $10 total, less if you save your boxes from when you have vaccines, or anything chilled, sent to you.
That's about $100. The insemination, progesterone test, etc. will be an expense, but the collection/chilling and shipping isn't more than $100 unless you're 1) price gouging or 2)having it all done by the vet and have no control over what they charge.
I wasn't even going to respond as a stud owner, because I wouldn't be interested at all in accepting any fee at all for the females described by the OP. In other words "no thanks". But to answer Mystere's comment - yes I offer my titled stud dogs to "approved females". That normally means titled (Schh1 at least, or advanced obedience, police, SAR, HGH - something the dog has earned to make it proven to work. No, not just CD or BH and definately not "working on it", will get it after this litter or when owner's kids graduate from highschool and they have more time to get the titles. "real" title of some sort, preferably Schh if the dogs are being bred for working - and if they are not being bred for working - then why use my stud dogs, with the goal of producing pets? I think not. KKl or not, I would not agree to breed any of my boys to a coatie, soft ears or off-color, dentition problem or a female with faulty temperament that I knew about. I try to do my research but when I accept a female I reserve the right to contact the owner right away and refuse the breeding, if the female comes out of the crate and shows poor temperament or nerve or something I don't want to breed. Bloodlines matter - not interested in breeding to american show or pet lines - and of course hips and elbows and female must be healthy in every way. I have considered untitled females, always asking the owner WHY she is not titled, and if she's worked if I can see her work, or a video - if she's not even worked then WHY. If I chase the owner away with my questions and requirements, so be it. If not, then my boys' stud fees are very reasonable for the quality, advanced titles, bloodlines and temperaments they have to offer quality females.
My goal as a stud dog owner is to allow them to produce quality puppies. To do that the female must be quality. I am not interested in collecting a stud fee only to produce puppies - I want the puppies to be quality, even if they are not from my program. I have turned away thousands of $$$$$ of stud fees over the years. It's all fine, so far I've been extremely pleased with the puppies my stud dogs have sired and it's all because the females I've used and allowed to be bred to my studs, were quality.
Eichenluft Working German Shepherds