Main > Stud Fee prices (26 replies)

by birdwing on 22 January 2009 - 11:01

Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:09 pm
I know a lot of people have posted about stud fees, what is reasonable, etc. I have been reading ads for stud fees that I personally think are crazy. $750 for a son of a VA dog in the US, dog is not titled. $1000 for a SchH 1 dog. I'm not paying that, which is totally my choice I understand....

Here is my question. I have 3 bitches. I also have 2 titled males.

I will be considering using outside males for my girls. Here is what I have:

Female 1. Czech/DDR lines. 4 years old, dark grey, dark eyes. Proven mother, OFA Good hips. Carries solid black.

Female 2: Mix of all sorts of import lines, Dam is DDR, sire is Czech, Hungarian , DDR and West German Showline. She is a bicolor with her points being very red. She is smaller. Hips pending.

Female 3: All West German Showlines, German Import. Black/Red. Has broken ear, injury I'm told. Hips pending.


For Female 1, would like Black Male or DARK Bicolor. titled, normal hips/elbows. Clear for long coats. Dark eyes.

For Female 2, would like dark male, sable OK but not pure for sable, normal hips/elbows, clear for long coats (her grandmother on sire side was 'fuzzy'). Dark red points, size/bone necessary.

For Female 3, would like all West German Showlines, V/VA rated, high titles/good scores, natural aggression/good fight, strong history of GOOD EARS, ideally clear for long coats.

Shipped semen or close enough drive to Louisville, Kentucky. What's available for a reasonable price? I do understand that the higher quality and TITLES = a greater fee, but I'm not willing to pay an arm and a leg, so $750 and above fees don't respond. :o)

 

by DKiah on 22 January 2009 - 12:01

Posts: 973
Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 12:23 pm
Is color and stud fee your only concern?? Interesting

by seriously on 22 January 2009 - 12:01

Posts: 174
Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:43 pm

A byb with 3 untitled females and pending hips complaining what others are doing?

by mkennels on 22 January 2009 - 13:01

Posts: 66
Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:44 pm
What I have heard (and been told before) is the stud fee is what the breeder would sell the pups for, so if you got a titled sire and you sold the pups for a $1000 then it wouldn't be any different if you let them have pick of litter or $1000 to some stud owners they don't want stud out for $500 and you make $500 profit off one pup but what I have gathered, the working lines have high stud fee's and I can see it for they put alot of time and since you want a titled dog, one with good hips and elbows and you want them to be dna tested clear of the coat all that cost money 

not to be mean but if you can't do those things yourself don't expect others in a stud to do it and not charge they are only wanting price of pup for stud fee

by birdwing on 22 January 2009 - 14:01

Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:09 pm
No, color is not my ONLY concern, however since this is a service that I am going to PAY for, I'm not willing to settle and I want EXACTLY what I want.  I don't want a dominant sable dog  because I don't want all sables.  I don't want long coats.  If you were buying a car, you wouldn't get a yellow one if you really wanted a black one JUST BECAUSE the yellow one was right on the lot and you might have to LOOK for the black one, same for stud dogs in my opinion.  Taking only what  you can get is fine if that is what you want to do and if that's the best you can do...I'm not willing to settle and there is nothing wrong with getting everything you want. 

As for being a back yard breeder, I'll take that name over being called a professional breeder like so many are proud of on this board.  My dogs are in my yard, actually the SIDE YARD most offen, not the back yard.  I also have not had a German Shepherd litter until now since 2003....that REALLY makes me a BYB!  :o)

So, again, I'm looking for titled males, tested and the colors that I listed above, for my consideration to breed to the 3 bitches above.  If you don't want your dog to be considered, don't respond to me.  That's easy enough.


Susie







by birdwing on 22 January 2009 - 14:01

Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:09 pm
"not to be mean but if you can't do those things yourself don't expect others in a stud to do it and not charge they are only wanting price of pup for stud fee"--mkennels

If you are referencing my boys and their tests, they both have certified normal hips/elbows, working titles and one carries coat by producing coats, no need to DNA for coat when he's produced it.  The other boy hasn't been tested for coat and I don't know that I will. 

I would also not pay for a stud dogs health tests, that is the owners responsibility, not the "customer" and since it is important to me to find a dog clear of coats, I would expect that people that have long coat FREE dogs would respond, and those that DON'T have long coat free dogs would NOT respond.  

Susie

by snajper69 on 22 January 2009 - 14:01

Posts: 2033
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2008 02:31 am
You side yard breeder lol hahaha. Good for you, you should always know what you want and never settle for less.

by Larry Filo on 22 January 2009 - 14:01

Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2007 03:56 am
 A breeder who is serious about the breed is going to want much more information about your females before considering letting their male out to them.  First, at this time you only have one female with hips certified but you give no information about temperament, workability, structure or general health.  The broken ear, how do you know it is from an injury? Can you see that it was injured?  Is there any documentation that it is from an injury?  These are all questions a stud owner should be concerned about.  The reason for this is simple, if we use our male on your female and the structure, hips, ears, temperament or wok ability are not there, it is going to reflect poorly on our male. 
I have three males here, all working lines, yet all three are rated V in structure, are KKL-1, SchH 3 and are proven males.  Two do not produce coated dogs and one can.  You should also be looking for males that are compatable with your bloodlines or you never know what you will get out of them.  My three males are here primarily for my five females because I want certain traits passed on in their progeny.  It would be cheaper to only have one male for the females but then I am not going to get what I want , in order to further the breed.  It is why many people charge more for stud service. They have alot of money tied up in their males and want serious people to breed to them.  I have been breeding for thirty years and we work our dogs in sport as well as train many in police work, we show our dogs to get their structure certified, we koer our dogs and title our dogs for breeding purposes.  We all need to start somewhere, but we also need to gather as much information as we can in order to further the breed and figure out what our goals are.  Not to just breed for the sake of breeding. Stud services to good males are going to run anywhere from $500 and up, with most being in the $750 to $1500 ranges.  I charge $600 for our males but only to females that I think will add to the breed overall and that will produce the structure, trainability, temperament and health that is needed to improve the breed.  I know this isn't what you really were asking, but felt it needed to be said.  I am not trying to put you down, just to inform you a little. 
Larry
Steinig Tal Kennel
www.steinigtalkennel.com

by Kreiger on 22 January 2009 - 14:01

Posts: 161
Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2007 09:19 pm
Have you tested your females to see if they carry the long coat gene??Long coats does not just come from the male,it takes two to produce it!!
How is the working ability of your females?
Are they titled?
What are you trying to improve in the breed with these breedings??
What's wrong with the two titled males you have since price is a big issue?
Not trying to make confusion,simply asking questions for the benefit of my understanding..

by DKiah on 22 January 2009 - 16:01

Posts: 973
Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 12:23 pm
First of all, there is a whole lot of difference between manufacturing a car ( hunk of metal with mechanical specifications and design) and breeding living creatures..
In any breeding, there should be criteria and traits and characteristics that we all look for above all and some not so much... however, I don't know of a dog that ever died from being sable or from having more coat (and the SV is looking at allowing longer stock hair)... and there are plenty of people in the world who love long coats and will be wonderful homes.
You haven't mentioned one word about what your bitches bring to the table  .... and truly how would you know unless you did some sort of active work or sport with them? Your stud dog requirements are also based entirely in color.. what about temperament, working ability, health??
Strong females are the very foundation of a breed, this one especially and they are absolutely essential to its success.. 
That was my point and incidentally, I am not a commercial breeder .. I have a business partner and we co-own a couple of nice females... and all of our litters are raised right here at my house.. all dogs live with my family or my business partners family.....
For some of us this has been a lifelong commitment and many years have been devoted to breeding the best dogs we can.... we don't take it lightly, it is a very big responsibility

by ShelleyR on 22 January 2009 - 17:01

Posts: 2750
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 03:47 pm
Just collecting, chilling and shipping the semen comes to over $200. That doesn't leave much for the stud fee. SS

by birdwing on 22 January 2009 - 18:01

Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:09 pm

On collecting/chilling and shipping semen.....do you do it yourself or have the vet do it? 

 

Fedex overnight to almost anywhere in the lower 48 US States is $60 or less.

Kenney Extender is $30 or less for 100ml vial. 

Styrofoam cooler box, cool packs, packing material, syringes....all under $10 total, less if you save your boxes from when you have vaccines, or anything chilled, sent to you.

That's about $100.  The insemination, progesterone test, etc. will be an expense, but the collection/chilling and shipping isn't more than $100 unless you're 1) price gouging or 2)having it all done by the vet and have no control over what they charge.



 

by Benny G on 22 January 2009 - 20:01

Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 09:23 pm
 To be honest..... I wold never breed those females... asking so much from males... and having females without titles and korung... shame on you

by Sherman-RanchGSD on 22 January 2009 - 21:01

Posts: 168
Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2003 11:36 pm
What is *reasonable*  as in not whats cheap (G) is that you do what is acceptable to both you and a stud owner.. You dont do what you are NOT able to or cant deliver on... then later point blame at others for your misconceptions on what is reasonable or realistic.

From what I have seen in the Western United States and most of the USA stud fees range from 900 to 1200 YOU go stud. Shipped and chilled semen prices vary. YOU discuss in an adult fashion with the stud owner and read a clearly printed, not over worded clear on the  stud contract ..then YOU decide what to do..

Than goodness in my country ..you dont have to do anything and you dont have blame others for your choices.

Very simple IMO.

Debi
http://www.webstarts.com/sherman-ranch
http://www.webstarts.com/ironfistcreations



by Mystere on 22 January 2009 - 22:01

Posts: 5071
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 03:07 pm
Stud owners, such as Filo, Molly, Kandi, and Sue might further enlighten us all. Many, if not most stud ads for workingline dogs have language like "to approved bitches." Now, I always understood that to mean bitches that are themselves titled, perhaps koered, have health clearances (including brucellosis), sometimes recommendation/references regarding working ability and temperament, etc. As Larry indicated, the stud tends to get the blame for what turns out. As for Sch I studs, I mention one word: Tarzan.

by eichenluft on 22 January 2009 - 22:01

Posts: 3742
Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2003 06:19 pm

I wasn't even going to respond as a stud owner, because I wouldn't be interested at all in accepting any fee at all for the females described by the OP.  In other words "no thanks".   But to answer Mystere's comment - yes I offer my titled stud dogs to "approved females".  That normally means titled (Schh1 at least, or advanced obedience, police, SAR, HGH - something the dog has earned to make it proven to work.  No, not just CD or BH and definately not "working on it", will get it after this litter or when owner's kids graduate from highschool and they have more time to get the titles.  "real" title of some sort, preferably Schh if the dogs are being bred for working - and if they are not being bred for working - then why use my stud dogs, with the goal of producing pets?  I think not.  KKl or not, I would not agree to breed any of my boys to a coatie, soft ears or off-color, dentition problem or a female with faulty temperament that I knew about.  I try to do my research but when I accept a female I reserve the right to contact the owner right away and refuse the breeding, if the female comes out of the crate and shows poor temperament or nerve or something I don't want to breed.  Bloodlines matter - not interested in breeding to american show or pet lines - and of course hips and elbows and female must be healthy in every way.  I have considered untitled females, always asking the owner WHY she is not titled, and if she's worked if I can see her work, or a video - if she's not even worked then WHY.   If I chase the owner away with my questions and requirements, so be it.  If not, then my boys' stud fees are very reasonable for the quality, advanced titles, bloodlines and temperaments they have to offer quality females.
My goal as a stud dog owner is to allow them to produce quality puppies.  To do that the female must be quality.  I am not interested in collecting a stud fee only to produce puppies - I want the puppies to be quality, even if they are not from my program.   I have turned away thousands of $$$$$ of stud fees over the years.  It's all fine, so far I've been extremely pleased with the puppies my stud dogs have sired and it's all because the females I've used and allowed to be bred to my studs, were quality.

molly

Eichenluft Working German Shepherds

http://workinggermanshepherd.com

by ShelleyR on 22 January 2009 - 23:01

Posts: 2750
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 03:47 pm
In answer to your question about DIY semen collection, etc... NO I don't feel competent to collect, extend, chill and ship semen. I go to a repro specialist in an area populated heavily enough to have very quick shipping pick-up from the clinic. This also allows me to have the dogs' semen checked with every collection. I will try to ignore your suggestion that I might "gouge" anybody for anything. :-(

by bea teifke on 22 January 2009 - 23:01

Posts: 305
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 02:53 pm
well if you want a v or va show line be prepared to pay  1000 for va or around 750 and up for v rated.
and thats cheap.
when my guy is old enough i will stud him for $600 with no tittles and even more when he is titled.
each breeder has there own price  and they get it too.

by crazydog on 23 January 2009 - 03:01

Posts: 241
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 01:44 pm
We should not go call people back yard breeders because there is no definite standard for it. A person can see another operation anyway they like. Normally, dog lovers, hobbiest, enthusiast would go calling almost any breeder a back yard breeder.

Likewise, dog prices vary from place to place regardless of having a titled dog or not. It is very important that healthy puppies are bred. Stud fee will depend on how much the owner of the stud dog would value there dog. Cheap dogs should be viewed with caution as there could be a catch to it. Again, the breeder has to decide what they want to breed and what are the cost and the return.

In my books, good breeds good. Sometimes if the breeder has a stock that needs improving then breeding to a good dog would be a good idea.

if you have something positive to say about my thinking, please do comment. If negative, please keep it to yourself. There is enough bitching on this board since recently.

by yellowrose of Texas on 23 January 2009 - 03:01

Posts: 9480
Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2006 03:25 am
I cannot believe my eyes.. Hello LARRY FILO:

THE MOST IMPORTANT MAN ON THIS PAGE , BY ANYONES MEASURE...

fROM   YELLOWROSE OF TEXAS                                 ZU'S MOM/    THE SUPER DOG OUT OF CADETTE V BUSECKER SCHLOSS AND ZILLA V WIETHURCHEN......

THANKS TO LARRY FILO    ........IS IT JUST THIRTY YEARS,  SEEMS LIKE 50 T0  ME....

JUMPING WITH JOY TO SEE YOU POSTING....


JAN

You must be logged in to reply to posts







Do NOT follow this link or you will be banned from the site!