1st Muzzle session - Page 2

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BlackMalinois

by BlackMalinois on 26 June 2016 - 07:06

 


good doggy and i like te decoy very well he knows what  he is doing.

Well done

 


by duke1965 on 26 June 2016 - 08:06

nice work,
as per request of moderater, a next step video, dog working on distance and on passive decoy (me LOL)

https://youtu.be/6qBv-lVEZVw

 



susie

by susie on 26 June 2016 - 08:06

Great vid, GSDfan! Thumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs Up


by Gee on 26 June 2016 - 10:06

@GSDfan - think I've seen that one before via pm.

The ground work is very good considering this is her first session.

Observation / suggestion for improvement when the dog punches:
Rather than giving her the whole length of the lead take up some slack.

This will reward her intent with better contact because of the increased momentum. (This can still be done on a short lead)

Just to clarify - I am not talking about off lead/distance at this stage, she still needs your support at the end of the leash.

Appreciate you are working on one thing at a time, building up initial confidence being the most important. (The above won't detract from that)


Hope that helps.

R
Gee


susie

by susie on 26 June 2016 - 11:06

I think different ( no, not starting another pi..... contest, it´s about training techniques only ).

This is the first time this dog is asked to make "contact", with a muzzle, 2. session at all.
That said the dog needs to learn how to hit and where to hit ( very good decoy job by the way ! ), and it´s very important the dog doesn´t hurt itself.

GSDfan is using a short leash - the shorter the leash, and the closer she is to the dog, the better she is able to have influence on the dog, "making" the dog target the body part she wants her to target.

There are shown 3 "attacks", and you can see during the first attack she holds the leash firm, whereas during attack 2 and 3 her arms ( elbows ) already move forwards a littlebit, small steps, but effective.

The better the dog will target, and know how to use the muzzle, the more "slack" (a little more every training session ) - right now "momentum" is not important, but basic technique.

There is no need to "rush" through training. I really like this vid.

by Gee on 26 June 2016 - 12:06

@Suzie - you clearly don't understand what giving slack means, it's a very basic lead technique so let me explain:

You can still have the dog on a short and taught lead very close to the handlers  body, and at the same time have slack for when the dog punches, as I said at the top it's basic stuff.

This is how it is done:

Tight lead, with the left hand holding lead, and the right hand holding more lead. (Some slack in between the left and right hand)
When the dog is released to strike - the left hand releases the lead, allowing the dog some momentum.

For a dog to punch high and hard on the lead - you need slack.
This dog is trying to punch - but is being restricted by too tight a line, that restriction has no benefits and will not increase confidence.

Or put it another way - this dog is being encouraged to strike, therefore don't restrict it's intent. 

My observation / suggestion - was for future sessions, no one is suggesting the dog be rushed.

When you said -
"making the dog target the body part she wants her to target".

No offence but the above makes zero sense, unless you mean -  telepathic targeting.

R
Gee


susie

by susie on 26 June 2016 - 13:06

I totally understood what you said, Gee, I just think it´s not useful during the first session.

You don´t need "telepathy" to make a dog hit the bodyparts you want it to hit - you just need a decoy presenting the target ( this decoy was great ), and you need to be able to guide the dog via leash, in that case the shorter the leash, the easier to do so.

Primary goal in a 1. session should be

- no harm to the dog ( a dog willing to bite, but not used to a muzzle is able to hurt itself, not very helpful - that said, the more "momentum, the bigger the chance to do harm to the dog )
- give the dog as much support as possible ( close to the handler, short leash, no chance to learn wrong )

You write now " My observation / suggestion - was for future sessions, no one is suggesting the dog be rushed." -
and that´s totally fine with me., that´s exactly what I said.

by Gee on 26 June 2016 - 13:06

Suzie - it's not about the length of the lead, it's how it's used.

Same with giving momentum - not suggesting you instantly give a novice dog thirty foot of slack lol.

I had seen this vid before, the poster knows what I think of her dogs and training - none of it bad.

R
Gee

GSDfan

by GSDfan on 26 June 2016 - 13:06

@ Gee you haven't seen this video before it was just recorded yesterday.

Thanks for you input but everything including the tight leash was intentional for this session. The decoy was instructed as I was posted up to "run-by" into the punch. Allowing her to advance to the decoy for the punch will come in further sessions....no rush.

IMO A tight leash is not restricting the dogs intent, in many instances it builds frustration and opposition reflex which actually builds intent and intensity...so when they are allowed to advance into the punch or the bite they will push/run harder if they remember having to fight against restriction last time.


Regards

susie

by susie on 26 June 2016 - 13:06

"Suzie - it's not about the length of the lead, it's how it's used."
Gee, I understood you, you don´t need to repeat the same stuff 2 times, contrary to you I think GSDfan did well by starting like this ( structured, and careful ).

Everything else in the next steps..

But it´s nice to be able to discuss dog training based on such a good video, handler, dog, and helper.





 


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